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Originally Posted by gregintenn
Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Would an 01 model have that anti-theft system? Maybe it was a option back then.
Jerry

There is a "Security" light in the dash. I suppose it has something.


Try flipping the key around and do it again.



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Originally Posted by gregintenn
Originally Posted by Swifty52
Originally Posted by gregintenn
Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
First, check the fuses. There's a "keep alive" circuit that provides unswitched battery voltage to the computer. Sometimes it's labeled "Gauges". If that one blows, the computer can't communicate with the serial data port (otherwise known as the scan tool plug). When you say "crank" do you actually mean "run"? Cranking means the starter is turning the engine. If the fuel pump relay isn't getting a signal from the computer or an oil pressure switch that tells it the engine is running, the fuel pump will shut off as soon as you release the key from the "start" position, and the engine will stall.
Jerry

You think that fuse is in the fuse box or somewhere else? I haven't found a bad fuse. The engine will turn over and fire, but immediately quit. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on.


Your anti theft/ passlock needs to be reset.

30 MINUTE LEARN PROCEDURE
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK). IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password XXXXX the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password.

Tried that. The security light never goes off. It swaps from "Battery" to "Security" to "Low Fuel" and keeps going. Truck is full of gas before someone asks.


Communication errors.

There will be some high number codes.


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Originally Posted by Jim_Conrad
Originally Posted by gregintenn
Originally Posted by Swifty52
Originally Posted by gregintenn
Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
First, check the fuses. There's a "keep alive" circuit that provides unswitched battery voltage to the computer. Sometimes it's labeled "Gauges". If that one blows, the computer can't communicate with the serial data port (otherwise known as the scan tool plug). When you say "crank" do you actually mean "run"? Cranking means the starter is turning the engine. If the fuel pump relay isn't getting a signal from the computer or an oil pressure switch that tells it the engine is running, the fuel pump will shut off as soon as you release the key from the "start" position, and the engine will stall.
Jerry

You think that fuse is in the fuse box or somewhere else? I haven't found a bad fuse. The engine will turn over and fire, but immediately quit. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on.


Your anti theft/ passlock needs to be reset.

30 MINUTE LEARN PROCEDURE
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK). IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password XXXXX the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password.

Tried that. The security light never goes off. It swaps from "Battery" to "Security" to "Low Fuel" and keeps going. Truck is full of gas before someone asks.


Communication errors.

There will be some high number codes.


Right, but I can't get a code because of the communication issues. I wish the truck just had a "do-over" button.
I guess I need to just leave chit alone. All I wanted to do was to get the brake light in the dash turned off before my son took the driver's test.

Last edited by gregintenn; 09/01/19.
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Is it insured? a couple of cans of lighter fluid applied to the tires is almost impossible to trace. I knew a guy from Chicago who made a pretty good living "arranging" insurance claims on big Diesels that way.
Jerry


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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Is it insured? a couple of cans of lighter fluid applied to the tires is almost impossible to trace. I knew a guy from Chicago who made a pretty good living "arranging" insurance claims on big Diesels that way.
Jerry

LOL! In the long run that might be the cheapest option, but I ain't that kind of guy.

I'm sure it's something simple.

Last edited by gregintenn; 09/01/19.
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May sound stupid, but if it has security it will lock out all comm to a scanner. If it starts and immediately shuts off it’s a security issue not comm. now here’s the stupid, take your key fob and lock and unlock the doors 3 times, then try to start it.



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I have an '02, had the battery disconnected a few times. Maybe I'm lucky, hooked back up and no issues. Knock wood.

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Originally Posted by Swifty52
May sound stupid, but if it has security it will lock out all comm to a scanner. If it starts and immediately shuts off it’s a security issue not comm. now here’s the stupid, take your key fob and lock and unlock the doors 3 times, then try to start it.

Bought the truck used and did not get a key fob with it. Is there another way to reset?

Not stupid at all. I expect it's something about that simple.

Last edited by gregintenn; 09/01/19.
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Not that I know of, that said my last help would be to disconnect the negative battery terminal only. Let set for 30 min or longer to drain down the system capacitor. This should cause the ECM to reboot and go into learning mode which will hopefully clear all the soft codes including security. If it has any hard codes they will remain but it just might let you talk to it after reboot, key word is might. After that it’s dealer time.



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It seems to be the replacement abs control module. I can unplug it and the truck runs fine. Plug it back in and truck will not run. Is there a way to somehow sync the new module with my truck, or is the new module bad?

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Easy way to test is when the ignition is to on only the abs on that year you should hear a self test groan or cycling of the system. I take it your scanner/ECM is not ABS compatible otherwise you could talk to it. Some of the early years had a separate ABS connector hidden away, if I remember right my 04 Envoy was under the console and I know that’s where it’s at in my 04 Jeep. Best guess is separate ABS plug.
Sync may be possible but doubt it, so best guess is bad module on that.

Last edited by Swifty52; 09/01/19.


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Originally Posted by Swifty52
Easy way to test is when the ignition is to on only the abs on that year you should hear a self test groan or cycling of the system. I take it your scanner/ECM is not ABS compatible otherwise you could talk to it. Some of the early years had a separate ABS connector hidden away, if I remember right my 04 Envoy was under the console and I know that’s where it’s at in my 04 Jeep. Best guess is separate ABS plug.
Sync may be possible but doubt it, so best guess is bad module on that.

The security light also flashes no with the new ABS control module plugged in. My code scanner does read abs, but will not communicate with the truck when the new module is plugged in.

It is a rebuilt module from ebay. Probably bad.

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Simple solution- - - -leave the ABS module unplugged. How often do you get into a panic stop situation where the ABS cycles, anyway? With a non-functional ABS system, the brakes simply revert back to a normal dual-line brake setup- - - -they don't quit working. Put a piece of electrician's tape over the ABS warning light and drive on!
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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Simple solution- - - -leave the ABS module unplugged. How often do you get into a panic stop situation where the ABS cycles, anyway? With a non-functional ABS system, the brakes simply revert back to a normal dual-line brake setup- - - -they don't quit working. Put a piece of electrician's tape over the ABS warning light and drive on!
Jerry

I would, but it's my kid's truck. I doubt they'd let him take his driver's test with a warning light on in the dash. Also, if he wrecks it, I'd like to know I did all I could to ensure the truck is safe to drive. Were I driving it, i'd have never given it a second thought.

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Where in the world do you live, that a driver's license examiner is that anal-retentive????????? Lincoln County Tennessee certainly doesn't do a detailed vehicle inspection before a driving test!
Jerry


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Originally Posted by gregintenn
Originally Posted by Swifty52
Easy way to test is when the ignition is to on only the abs on that year you should hear a self test groan or cycling of the system. I take it your scanner/ECM is not ABS compatible otherwise you could talk to it. Some of the early years had a separate ABS connector hidden away, if I remember right my 04 Envoy was under the console and I know that’s where it’s at in my 04 Jeep. Best guess is separate ABS plug.
Sync may be possible but doubt it, so best guess is bad module on that.

The security light also flashes no with the new ABS control module plugged in. My code scanner does read abs, but will not communicate with the truck when the new module is plugged in.

It is a rebuilt module from ebay. Probably bad.



Yup. Rebuilt computer modules is never a good thing, especially FleaBay.



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Originally Posted by Swifty52
Originally Posted by gregintenn
Originally Posted by Swifty52
Easy way to test is when the ignition is to on only the abs on that year you should hear a self test groan or cycling of the system. I take it your scanner/ECM is not ABS compatible otherwise you could talk to it. Some of the early years had a separate ABS connector hidden away, if I remember right my 04 Envoy was under the console and I know that’s where it’s at in my 04 Jeep. Best guess is separate ABS plug.
Sync may be possible but doubt it, so best guess is bad module on that.

The security light also flashes no with the new ABS control module plugged in. My code scanner does read abs, but will not communicate with the truck when the new module is plugged in.

It is a rebuilt module from ebay. Probably bad.



Yup. Rebuilt computer modules is never a good thing, especially FleaBay.

Lol! They had good reviews. What I get for being a tightwad.

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I bet bad stuff would happen if I cranked the truck then plugged in the module.

I really appreciate all the help!!!

Last edited by gregintenn; 09/01/19.
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LOL, nope isn’t about being a tightwad. Just seems that every time I did it even with positive reviews, I always seemed to get the defective one. Had one good experience on a guy who replaced gauge stepper motors. Backed his work. Went out of business though.😃
Personally I never ever skimp when it comes to the braking system. Too damn many bad drivers out there.



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Originally Posted by Swifty52
LOL, nope isn’t about being a tightwad. Just seems that every time I did it even with positive reviews, I always seemed to get the defective one. Had one good experience on a guy who replaced gauge stepper motors. Backed his work. Went out of business though.😃
Personally I never ever skimp when it comes to the braking system. Too damn many bad drivers out there.

I agree. If the kid wrecks his truck, I don't want it to be my fault. I may just get a refund and buy a new one. I've messaged the guy I bought it from. We'll see what he has to say. He might know an easy fix.

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