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DANNYL Offline OP
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Bought me a boyds stock for my b-mag and per boyds was to use existing action screws. I ended up stripping the rear action hole (screw is good) the torque
calls for 40 lbs but I wasn't probably 20 and was only going for 25. What caused it was the screws were to long and it hit against my safety and stripped the hole. There are still a few threads where I was able to snug it up,probably less than 10lbs. I had to put a small washer in under my safety so as to space it for the safety to work right. What thoughts on a easy repair? I was thinking thread tape and JB weld on the screw and snug it up enough to where I know it won't come lose or re thread and a larger screw.

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Drill out & helicoil


If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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loctite thread restorer..online or auto parts store..I've used it on heavy equipment u-joint yokes, that's pretty hard test.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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DANNYL Offline OP
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I do have loctite (med) on it now but was thinking since it didn't tighten down properly t wouldn't hold. Didn't know they made helicoils that small. Sems they would have made the screws softer that the action holes.

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Old Corps

Semper Fi

Get off my lawn.

FJB
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Originally Posted by DANNYL
Bought me a boyds stock for my b-mag and per boyds was to use existing action screws. I ended up stripping the rear action hole (screw is good) the torque
calls for 40 lbs but I wasn't probably 20 and was only going for 25. What caused it was the screws were to long and it hit against my safety and stripped the hole. There are still a few threads where I was able to snug it up,probably less than 10lbs. I had to put a small washer in under my safety so as to space it for the safety to work right. What thoughts on a easy repair? I was thinking thread tape and JB weld on the screw and snug it up enough to where I know it won't come lose or re thread and a larger screw.


You are using Inch Pounds, right?


Get close and wack em hard!
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Originally Posted by BS2
Originally Posted by DANNYL
Bought me a boyds stock for my b-mag and per boyds was to use existing action screws. I ended up stripping the rear action hole (screw is good) the torque
calls for 40 lbs but I wasn't probably 20 and was only going for 25. What caused it was the screws were to long and it hit against my safety and stripped the hole. There are still a few threads where I was able to snug it up,probably less than 10lbs. I had to put a small washer in under my safety so as to space it for the safety to work right. What thoughts on a easy repair? I was thinking thread tape and JB weld on the screw and snug it up enough to where I know it won't come lose or re thread and a larger screw.


You are using Inch Pounds, right?



hope not 40 foot pounds

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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Drill out & helicoil


Anybody who uses a frekin heli-coil on one of my firearms would get a size twelve right to their scrotum...

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Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Drill out & helicoil


Anybody who uses a frekin heli-coil on one of my firearms would get a size twelve right to their scrotum...


so what would you do/suggest ?


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Originally Posted by Craigster
Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Drill out & helicoil


Anybody who uses a frekin heli-coil on one of my firearms would get a size twelve right to their scrotum...


so what would you do/suggest ?


I guess he wants you to Tigweld the hole closed, re-drill and tap.

Mcmaster Carr has them 1-64" thru 1&3/4" .

https://www.mcmaster.com/helicoil-inserts

Never used the Thread restorer, although it probably works fine.


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DANNYL Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Craigster


Thanks haven't seen that kit before,worth a shot.
Yes inch lbs using fat wrench.
I don't know exactly what the material in the action screw hole is but to begin going in is like plastic with a small section of some sort metal,the way it stripped so easy makes me think aluminum.

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Originally Posted by flintlocke
loctite thread restorer..online or auto parts store..I've used it on heavy equipment u-joint yokes, that's pretty hard test.

Have used this more than once IT WORKS WELL.

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DANNYL Offline OP
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Watched video on it and looks like it'll work good,will get some.

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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Originally Posted by Craigster
Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Originally Posted by saddlesore
Drill out & helicoil


Anybody who uses a frekin heli-coil on one of my firearms would get a size twelve right to their scrotum...


so what would you do/suggest ?


I guess he wants you to Tigweld the hole closed, re-drill and tap.

Mcmaster Carr has them 1-64" thru 1&3/4" .

https://www.mcmaster.com/helicoil-inserts

Never used the Thread restorer, although it probably works fine.


Heli-coil is a good way to niga-rig a repair that doesn't get constantly disassembled. If I were going with a thread insert I'd use a Jergens thin wall insert. The proper way would be to tig, redrill and tap.

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DANNYL Offline OP
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The proper way would be to tig, redrill and tap.

Unable to do this. On the bmag there is only a small metal threaded portion which is enclosed in the center of plastic which is a bad design.

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A TIG welded repair plug is annealed by definition plus the surrounding parent metal is going to be annealed as well. If a Helicoil is used, the original hardness of the parent metal is preserved plus the Helicoil itself is hardened stainless steel. This makes the repaired threaded hole stronger and more resistant to stripping than the original thread.

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Just how hard do you think the rear mounting screw area is? How hard does it need to be? Besides re-making the hole it is acceptable to go up one screw size.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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DANNYL Offline OP
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It's very hard plastic with a thin band of metal in the center. I have thought about tapping it and back off the recommended pound setting.

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For those of us who haven't futzed with one and don't know what they're talking about (like me) this thing is a horse of another color.

Picture lifted from a video showing action with rear screw removed.

[Linked Image]

Picture from the manual

[Linked Image]

Long distance I don't know what I would do, rebuilding the threads may be the only reasonable option short of sending to Savage. Have done it with epoxy and it worked but not as strong and not so durable. Maybe purpose made stuff would do better.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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Well at least it’s only the trigger housing you screwed into / stripped and it can be replaced because it screws into the rifle.

You could see if the hole in the stock is big enough to accommodate a larger screw, the screw is under the trigger guard assembly so no one can see it.
If the hole is big enough or you can enlarge it you can tap out the hole to the next bigger size and you should be good to go.

BE careful that the Boyd’s stock hole isn’t exactly over the screw, a buddy of mine brought me a A17 in a Boyd stock, and the hole was a bit further than it should have been the result was that he cross threaded the screw...

Savage tolerances are Terrible, and they vary wildly.. so combine that with a CAM machine like Boyd’s uses and you can have problems....

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