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Joined: Apr 2011
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I've been trying to measure the twist in my 1950R 250. I didn't clean it the last time I shot it thinking that would make the bore a little tighter, and turn the brush as I pulled it through. Didn't work, the brush would not turn the rod. Tried several size brushes, several size swabs. Can't get the rod to turn as we pull it through. The handle does spin on the rod. Now my bore is probably the cleanest it's ever been. I found my missing ammo box from last year and the "about 100 yd" target I shot with the 250 with Rem 100 CL's. The first shot was a flyer as usual, and the next two are what I expect from that gun. We also shot some 87's and the rifle did not like them at all. We shot some of the same 87's in my 1919 250 and it liked them just fine. I'd really like to once and fore all find out why this rifle likes the 100's, and it still likes them out to 200.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


I'm not greedy, I just want one of each.

Remember Ira Hayes

JoeMartin
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What kind of brush? Bronze or bristle? Sometimes I've had to wrap a patch around the brush to get the rod to turn consistently.

Joined: Nov 2005
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Start with a clean oily bore. Fit a tight as hell patch to the rod (your method of choice) and push it through. I don't push via the handle, I push the rod itself so I can feel if it "jumps the track" of the rifling. Trying to do it with a naked brush would be less than desirable- too much chance for the brush to just bulldog its way through without engaging the rifling. Go reeeaaaal slow too.


"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
"Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
Joined: Apr 2011
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Bronze. I marked the rod on top at the muzzle. Then pulled gently. 2-3 times, about half way out, the dot started to turn, so I marked the rod there, but it quit turning again.


I'm not greedy, I just want one of each.

Remember Ira Hayes

JoeMartin
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The cleaning rod jags I use are the old long brass Parker-Hales with the jaggedy protrusions all up and down the length of the jag. Those suckers grip a patch like nobody's business, and I never had to resort to a patch on a brush to achieve a tight fit for a twist check.


"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
"Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Joe:

Don't fall into the trap of "paralysis by analysis"

If your gun like's 100's feed in 100's. If it likes 87's feed it 87's

If you think too long and too hard about some things all you wind up with is no answers and a sore brain.


"You cannot invade mainland America. There would be a rifle behind every blade of grass"
~Admiral Yamamoto~

When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty. ~Thomas Jefferson~
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I've found tornado brushes work well for measuring twist, but probably not any better than the other suggestions offered.

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I just had an epiphany, Joe. Y'all are pulling the rod up through a 99 barrel, not pushing it. All but one of my Savages are takedowns and as such it's a simple matter to push a rod through the bore, as you would with a bolt gun or single shot. My bad, I just don't think in terms of cleaning guns from the muzzle.

Regardless of which direction one puts the rod through the bore, a RH twist (as in our Savages) has the tendency to loosen the jag/brush in the rod. That's why you need to push (or pull) via the rod not the handle, so you keep constant pressure in the direction of the rifling while kind of maintaining enough torque on the rod so the jag doesn't spin loose and give you a false reading. It calls for a dab hand.


"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
"Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty

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