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+1 on RAN's post, in more than 40 yrs. as a Tool & Die Maker I installed hundreds of Heli-coil inserts don't remember any problems.

GB1

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Or that. Suspect the big objection was like mine thinking it would be visible like a big ugly booger


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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Is that trigger housing white metal ?? I doubt it’s steel..., but may be aluminum.

IF you fix it yourself then TIG & trap is the way to go.

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DANNYL Offline OP
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There is room under the safety also as to where I could slide a square nut between the safety and housing and just screw a screw into it. I would guess the metal inside the housing that stripped is mad of aluminum. The pics posted fills everyone in on just what cheap way it was made.

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DANNYL Offline OP
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I ended up finding a screw 2 sizes up from original and it easily made it's own threads. It's good and tight and I only put it to 15 inch lbs. I had plenty of options from here and thanks for so many.

IC B2

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Originally Posted by DANNYL
I ended up finding a screw 2 sizes up from original and it easily made it's own threads. It's good and tight and I only put it to 15 inch lbs. I had plenty of options from here and thanks for so many.


2 sizes up? Meaning you went from something like a #8 to a #12 or 1/4"?

It's really concerning that you were able to screw it in and have it make it's own threads. Seems like cracking that aluminum threaded piece is a strong possibility, and much more likely than the screw cutting it's own threads unless you used a self tapping screw.

Hopefully that's miscommunication and you just went with a longer screw of the same size.

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Originally Posted by RAN
A TIG welded repair plug is annealed by definition plus the surrounding parent metal is going to be annealed as well. If a Helicoil is used, the original hardness of the parent metal is preserved plus the Helicoil itself is hardened stainless steel. This makes the repaired threaded hole stronger and more resistant to stripping than the original thread.

RAN




That is not what annealed means. Welds are not "annealed by definition", especially a small weld in a larger surrounding piece of metal. The rate of cooling matters, and quicker cooling from heat transfer to the surrounding steel does not leave the weld annealed. Annealing in carbon steel (like what is used in most rifle actions) typically requires slow cooling over a number of hours; very different than how a welded hole cools.

The heat of welding can affect the temper of the surrounding steel, but that is not the same as annealing. The weld itself may be harder or softer than the base metal, depending on the filler rod used.

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DANNYL Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Yondering
Originally Posted by DANNYL
I ended up finding a screw 2 sizes up from original and it easily made it's own threads. It's good and tight and I only put it to 15 inch lbs. I had plenty of options from here and thanks for so many.


2 sizes up? Meaning you went from something like a #8 to a #12 or 1/4"?

It's really concerning that you were able to screw it in and have it make it's own threads. Seems like cracking that aluminum threaded piece is a strong possibility, and much more likely than the screw cutting it's own threads unless you used a self tapping screw.

Hopefully that's miscommunication and you just went with a longer screw of the same size.


No it was 2 sizes up,I ran the next size first which cut in real easy then the next size. It's mostly plastic.

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