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My wife does art glass. For this, she'd use a Dremel and a diamond bit. KEEP IT WET or it'll overheat and could shatter. A 2d person constantly squirting water on it is all you need.


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Originally Posted by Cheesy
Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Don't sand it, don't grind it. Instead, take a propane or MAPP gas torch (a mini torch would work perfect) and heat it until the glass starts to melt - it will smooth right out. It should only take about 15-30 seconds of direct heat. Then cut the flame and let it cool naturally at room temperature. Seriously, it will work like a charm.

That's how we "polished" the ends of glass rod and tubing in the chemistry lab, except we usually used alcohol burners instead of torches.


That’s the first thing I thought of as well.

It WILL work, I promise. I can do it quicker, and better that way in less time than it would take me to set up my Dremel.

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Originally Posted by Poconojack

Originally Posted by Cheesy
Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Don't sand it, don't grind it. Instead, take a propane or MAPP gas torch (a mini torch would work perfect) and heat it until the glass starts to melt - it will smooth right out. It should only take about 15-30 seconds of direct heat. Then cut the flame and let it cool naturally at room temperature. Seriously, it will work like a charm.

That's how we "polished" the ends of glass rod and tubing in the chemistry lab, except we usually used alcohol burners instead of torches.


That’s the first thing I thought of as well.


Wouldn’t this subject the glass to severe thermal shock?

Only if you dunk it in water to cool it. It's how it's done every day in chemistry labs throughout the world.
Do you think I pulled this method out of my a$$?

Last edited by Triggernosis; 02/19/20.
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Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Originally Posted by Poconojack

Originally Posted by Cheesy
Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Don't sand it, don't grind it. Instead, take a propane or MAPP gas torch (a mini torch would work perfect) and heat it until the glass starts to melt - it will smooth right out. It should only take about 15-30 seconds of direct heat. Then cut the flame and let it cool naturally at room temperature. Seriously, it will work like a charm.

That's how we "polished" the ends of glass rod and tubing in the chemistry lab, except we usually used alcohol burners instead of torches.


That’s the first thing I thought of as well.


Wouldn’t this subject the glass to severe thermal shock?

Only if you dunk it in water to cool it. It's how it's done every day in chemistry labs throughout the world.
Do you think I pulled this method out of my a$$?


Maybe...........


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Originally Posted by BayouRover
Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Originally Posted by Poconojack

Originally Posted by Cheesy
Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Don't sand it, don't grind it. Instead, take a propane or MAPP gas torch (a mini torch would work perfect) and heat it until the glass starts to melt - it will smooth right out. It should only take about 15-30 seconds of direct heat. Then cut the flame and let it cool naturally at room temperature. Seriously, it will work like a charm.

That's how we "polished" the ends of glass rod and tubing in the chemistry lab, except we usually used alcohol burners instead of torches.


That’s the first thing I thought of as well.


Wouldn’t this subject the glass to severe thermal shock?

Only if you dunk it in water to cool it. It's how it's done every day in chemistry labs throughout the world.
Do you think I pulled this method out of my a$$?


Maybe...........


Huge difference in the thermal properties of the borosilicate and quartz glassware used in modern chemistry laboratories and the glass used in 19th Century decorative glassware.


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Before you put that kind of heat on it, you'd better know what you're doing. You could shatter the handle. A little touch up with a wet diamond grinder is quick, easy, and safe.


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Originally Posted by Poconojack

Originally Posted by Cheesy
Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Don't sand it, don't grind it. Instead, take a propane or MAPP gas torch (a mini torch would work perfect) and heat it until the glass starts to melt - it will smooth right out. It should only take about 15-30 seconds of direct heat. Then cut the flame and let it cool naturally at room temperature. Seriously, it will work like a charm.

That's how we "polished" the ends of glass rod and tubing in the chemistry lab, except we usually used alcohol burners instead of torches.


That’s the first thing I thought of as well.


Wouldn’t this subject the glass to severe thermal shock?

This is likely soda lime glass - plain, ordinary, glass.

Laboratory glass is borosilicate glass and has much better thermal shock resistance.

The lamp will almost certainly crack/shatter with the application of a torch.


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As best I can figure this lamp was made about 1890. It says on the glass ACME trade mark LEAD-FLINT. I think they added lead and flint to the glass in those days.
Also says MADE IN THE US of AMERICA.

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I'd side with leaving as is. The grind is the easy part. Polishing even with the surrounding terrain is the challenge.


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Originally Posted by 1minute
I'd side with leaving as is. The grind is the easy part. Polishing even with the surrounding terrain is the challenge.
The sharp edge is inside the top of the handle. There wouldn't be any need to polish it unless it has a high collector value. Just smooth off the sharp ridge a little.


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I would try polishing with cerium oxide polishing compound. This is what glass working shops and mirror plants use. Keep the glass wet with the polishing compound and take your time, it will work fine, put a torch on 1890s glass and it will probably explode. Amazon has cerium oxide powder.

I'm not an expert but I worked in the mirror industry as a chemist for a while. Cerium Oxide actually has a solvent effect on glass.

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What Cal-H said. Cerium oxide is the paste/abrasive I was thinking of....

Having cracked more than one item trying to heat polish a sharp edge thinking I could treat it like lab glass. I would stay away from the torch. Differential heating is a pain in the tookis.. and the more complex the shape, the harder to control predict. Just when you think you did ok it starts to cool and then craack... whoops

Last edited by OldmanoftheSea; 02/19/20. Reason: Auto incorrect

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Don't effing polish it! Just hit it with a torch for 20 seconds and you're done!

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You could wear gloves if it hurts that much.

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Thanks for all the advice.
I am a log builder I have thousands of dollars of tools. I have 2 of the 7 inch disc grinders, a DeWalt and a Makita. I have a real nice Makita belt sander. All kinds of expensive drills etc etc.
But I don't have a dremel tool. Never used one.



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
I went down to Lowes and bought this dremel grinding stone for $3.50. It fit right in to my DeWalt cordless drill.



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
This thing worked great! I knocked out that little rim in about 7 minutes.

Thanks for all the advice. I did buy some 80 grit and 120 grit sandpaper and was going to wrap it around the ramrod to my Kentucky rifle, and duct tape it on. But it didn't come to that the home-made dremel tool did the job. Easy.

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