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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099
Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099 |
You want Blondie? I'll get right on that!
I am..........disturbed.
Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 29,841
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 29,841 |
Looks good. Too bad though one can't produce an actual alloy formula. Makes duplication difficult for others.
Last edited by 1minute; 02/29/20.
1Minute
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099
Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099 |
See the link posted earlier for LASC. It has information about basic formulas for WW, Linotype etc. Little bit of calculation will tell you what ratios of what will get you where. The alloy used in the OP was what I call 1.5, or a reasonable wag at hardness that splits the difference between 30:1 and Lyman #2. This illustrates one of the minor differences I have with some of their info. Using a hardness tester I find 30:1 is consistently BHN6, therefore my 1.5 alloy runs in the range of 10.5 - 11 range. This can be achieved with different alloy mixes.
I am..........disturbed.
Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099
Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099 |
For a bit more in depth look, and copied from the referenced web page:
Alloy "Average" Composition
Wheel Weights, clip-on: 1/2-1% tin, 2-3% antimony, 96-7.25% lead, 1/4% arsenic
Foundry Type: 15% tin, 23% antimony, 62% lead
Wheel Weights, stick-on: Pure lead or nearly so
Scrap range lead: Could be (and is) anything
Linotype: 4% tin, 12% antimony, 84% lead
Plumbers lead: 99%+ pure lead.
Monotype: 9% tin, 19% antimony, 72% lead
Lyman's No. 2: 5% tin, 5% antimony, 90% lead
Easy way to figure this out is to look at the weight/volume of what your melt pot holds in ounces, figure out where you want to go and do the math. My melt pot has a 20 pound capacity.
My version of alloys revolves around Lyman #2 or a facsimile thereof when I'm casting for smokeless powder loads.
1.25 Alloy - 14# 7oz PB; 5# 4oz Wheel Weights; 8oz Tin 1.5 Alloy - 9# 3oz PB; 9# 8oz Wheel Weights, 8oz Tin 1.75 Alloy - 8# 5oz PB; 8# 5oz Wheel Weights; 8 oz Tin Lyamn #2 - 50/50 PB/Linotype; 6 oz Tin -or- 50/50 Wheel Weights & Linotype The latter is not precise but is functional.
The tin in my recipe is not required, but it doesn't hurt. My reasons for using it are simple. I have the tin and it helps with fill out in the mould. Wheel Weights are of the clip-on style. Bores are slugged, bullets sized to groove + .001"
I have used the 1.75 alloy (gas checked) in two .30-30s at velocity in the 2,000+ fps range with good precision w/o leading and with multiple powders. -Lyman #2 in the .22 K-Hornet (gas checked) in the range of 2,300 -2,500 fps, also w/o leading.with use of Li'l Gun and IMR4227.
I am..........disturbed.
Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 10,351
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 10,351 |
load up your least accurate ammo and go hunting. then when you miss, you can truly say it's the ammo's fault.
Whatever you are willing to put up with, is exactly what you will have.
When your ship comes in. ... make sure you are willing to unload it.
PAYPAL, sucks and I will never use them again. I recommend you do the same.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099
Campfire Kahuna
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OP
Campfire Kahuna
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 56,099 |
But, but, huntin' makes me hungry!
I am..........disturbed.
Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain
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