Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Setting Posts For a Shed??

No concrete. No gravel.

Helical piers.

https://www.technometalpost.com/en-US/advantages/helical-piers/

Post seems to rot faster with concrete in the future I am going with pressure treated posts and tamped pea gravel for drainage or at least have drainage at bottom of hole.

https://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarde...revent-wooden-fence-post-rot-4457660.php

Post seems to rot faster with concrete in the future I am going with pressure treated posts and tamped pea gravel for drainage or at least have drainage at bottom of hole.

https://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarde...revent-wooden-fence-post-rot-4457660.php

Da hail kinda shed is that low?

Post seems to rot faster with concrete in the future I am going with pressure treated posts and tamped pea gravel for drainage or at least have drainage at bottom of hole. Or use sauna tube filled with concrete and post above ground.

https://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarde...revent-wooden-fence-post-rot-4457660.php

Gnome castle

that auger come w a messican?

Free advice, my free bit. It depends. Size of shed, snow load, ect. The pressure treatments are not what they used to be.


Mortin has gone to precast past the ground line, that looks good to me.

To do it right: Sonotube to below frost line, with the post starting ON TOP of the concrete (not in it).

I do this for any addition, attached deck, etc. where I want it to pass an inspection.

For a simple unattached shed and to keep it cheap and simple? Concrete piers on top of a few inches of gravel that is below the soil level, like these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/7-3-4-i...REC-_-pipsem-_-100321948-_-204827028-_-N

I have built 2 sheds in the frost-heave of Colorado, both over 20 years old, both sitting square and sound with the cheap piers. AND, the shed can be moved later if you desire.

got to be a boomer out there hollerin at his commodore64

“It’s called WOLMANIZED”

Those are used only when you want it right.

In Tennessee, we abide by the Southern Bldg Code

“fugg it, it’ll last longer than I will”

And

“it’s aight, can’t see it from my house”

“I ain’t worried about quarters, now- 1/2”? depends”

It’s a Vic20, thanks.

Stone in hole post in hole pour in dry quikrete pour in some water shovel in dirt tamp tight done. That 6x6 is gonna last a long time.
My 16x24 tool shed was built off of 8x8 rail road ties just laid on top of ground and leveled been standing 32 years so far looks like new.

I would dig a hole to below your frost line. Pour a pier in the hole 7-8” or mor thick. Make sure the concrete is cone shaped with the top being smaller than the bottom or a perfect cylinder so the frost can’t grab it. Let it cure for a day, then coat a 6x6 ground contact post with tar or equal to just above grade and backfill. After the backfill settles add some dirt around a bit higher than the finish grade. Overkill, yes indeed! Doesn’t cost hardly any more than any other way, but will last thru your grandchildren's lifetime.
They will say my grandpa always did things right and you may roll over in your grave with pride

Ditto - except I'm a bit further south, and when they built the original big pole shed (40X96) the holes were drilled to 6'... I've never had an issue to date - and that was done 40 years ago..

I've not been very impressed with the pressure treated post over the past 20 years or so.

They've changed something. At least with the treated fence posts I've planted, they seem to rot off in a very short time.

You are in Pittsburgh. You have to find what the level of the frost zone is. Down south here you only need to go down 12 inches to pour your concrete.
Up in Minnesota it is more like 5 feet, or more.

Y'all boys with 40 year old PT posts that are buried: Those were the good old days. They put arsenic in PT wood back then. About 15 years ago they removed the arsenic from PT wood, and today's PT wood won't last nearly as long, if it is under ground.

When I use steel posts, I set them in concrete about three feet deep, unless using pipe over six inches in diameter. I never pour concrete around wood posts or railroad ties. Water gets between the post and the concrete and the post rots out in a relatively short time. For fence posts I tamp down native soil removed from the hole. For structures using wood posts I pour a concrete base above grade and set a post base in it. For a pole barn I would use telephone poles and tamp dirt around the post. There's a reason utility companies don't pour concrete around their poles. Frost is not a problem in the southwest desert.

Everyone has an opinion on how to do it here is mine for a pier: Dig a hole to frost line fill it with stone half way then pour concrete in to ground level place a block on top of concrete,skip the wooden post all together. Concrete will cost no more than PT 6x6 . Be done with it for your lifetime.