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Joined: May 2005
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As I wrote somewhere else the reaction rate - cure here - is governed by the Arrhenius equation which is exponential with temperature. So a little warmer makes a significant difference in cure time. In fact a common ploy in amateur composite aircraft construction is to let the composite bake in the heat of the sun to insure a cure to ultimate strength as that's really important to the pilot.

You're right about compressive strength, don't know how I did that. But I did find maximum strength for ideal English walnut of 7,280 psi. The other figure is for black walnut. But it doesn't really matter here. And in the real world it's at least 24 hrs. before I can get to the range anyway. While I use JB Weld in the garage bedding is done with Acraglas Gel. Mainly because it works and I don't think it has any tricks left to play on me.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
GB1

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Yay, Congratulations on having it go right! Yaaaaaaay.

I usually pop the action before complete cure, do any shaping and blort removal necessary while things are still softish. It's just easier than with fully-cured goop, and if you did it right, it's not an issue in terms of affecting the fit long term.

But I usually wait at least double the full-set time, 48 hours is a good benchmark, before shooting. In fact, I like to leave everything apart once it's been popped the first time for at least 24 hours, then check fit, then take it apart again to let it "breathe" or whatever. Doubt it's really needed, but I feel better.


Up hills slow,
Down hills fast
Tonnage first and
Safety last.
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Congrats on successful completion of your first bedding job, Shaman! Based on your description of what you did, it sounds like you got all bases covered in doing a "proper" stress-free job. I've not bedded close to the number of rifles MD has, but I've probably bedded close to 100 rifles between mine and friends and family member's rifles. I experienced that same anxiety on at least the first dozen rifles. Miraculously, I've never had a problem removing the barreled action from the stock, though a couple of them sure had me worried for a bit before the action finally popped loose! I believe as long as you fill in or otherwise avoid areas where voids or reverse angles occur that can create a mechanical lock and ensure that you used release agent on all surfaces contacting epoxy, you're good to go. I've tried a lot of different epoxies and a lot of different release agents. My current "go to" bedding epoxies are Score High's Pro Bed 2000 and Brownells Steel Bed. I've settled on Brownells Acra-Release aerosol spray for release agent, as it's just so fast and easy to apply a thin layer of release agent to metal while being very thorough, and a 14 oz can of the stuff will last for at least a dozen rifles. I remove the excess bedding squeezed into the magazine and trigger inlet spaces and anywhere else it doesn't belong with a combination of small abrasive drums and cutters in a Dremel, which gives me precise control and a clean edge.

Wishing you many more successful bedding jobs sir!


Ted
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Originally Posted by shaman
Here's a pic of the finished product:

[Linked Image from genesis9.angzva.com]


Pics and Article are here:

Ruger American Predator Redux

Congrats on your bedding job.How do you like that stock?I want to get one for my Tikka T1x 17HMR.Thanks,Huntz

Last edited by Huntz; 06/11/20.

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I have never had one stuck though insufficient release agent but have broken a stock during the separation which is a method of slamming the barrel on a wooden block. The Weatherby Mark V stock was send off to a stock maker who glued and pinned the stock as it actually split along the grain which paralleled my point of impact.

I don't keep records any more but one year bedded something over 50 stocks so it it up in the 3 figures somewhere. I was taught my Mike378 from here and his experience would be somewhere between high and staggering.

The main advantage of learning to bed your own stocks is that if you don't like it, think you can do better, neater or whatever, you can simply dremel it out and repeat. It is another aspect to the hobby which can be very satisfying to watch your loads become more uniform and reliable.


When truth is ignored, it does not change an untruth from remaining a lie.
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shaman Online Content OP
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Originally Posted by Huntz
[
Congrats on your bedding job.How do you like that stock? I want to get one for my Tikka T1x 17HMR.Thanks,Huntz



The AT-One is the absolute shizz. The fit was spot on. My only problem is that I'm still getting used to the palm swell. It's replaceable, but I could also probably fashion my own if I really wanted. We'll see. I may grow to love it. Both the palm swell and the forend have other options. They are expensive, but they exist.

As a first time buyer of Boyd's, The initial ordering process was easy and straight-forward. I've got a bit of a beef in that they lost the initial order and contacted me after two months to re-confirm. That made for a bit of hassle. Their customer service seemed a bit over-wrought at the time. I think they just got backed up after Christmas. Once the second order was in, the stock was delivered right away.

None of this would dissuade me from ordering again.


Genesis 9:2-4 Ministries Lighthearted Confessions of a Cervid Serial Killer
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That's a nice combo, I can see why you were a bit nervous. I started on clunkers, trying to bring them back from the dead.


Up hills slow,
Down hills fast
Tonnage first and
Safety last.
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