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Joined: Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by gunner500
Make sure your PTO shaft is balanced and all u-joints are square, tight and well greased, make sure your blades are [balanced] of equal weight, ny-lock nuts and lock washers are junk, grade 8 fine [machine] thread bolts with flat washers and actual crimped steel lock nuts, red Loctite it all together with short cheater or break over bar, you can heat Loctite with torch if need to remove later.


Yep.
This would cure the problem.


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Originally Posted by Old_Toot
Originally Posted by gunner500
Make sure your PTO shaft is balanced and all u-joints are square, tight and well greased, make sure your blades are [balanced] of equal weight, ny-lock nuts and lock washers are junk, grade 8 fine [machine] thread bolts with flat washers and actual crimped steel lock nuts, red Loctite it all together with short cheater or break over bar, you can heat Loctite with torch if need to remove later.


Yep.
This would cure the problem.


Or do like jackmountain said, red Loctite, brad the hell out of the shank, then weld the circumference! laugh


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If the holes in gear box or channel are "wallered" out much at all you have hard time keeping anything tight

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This is the answer to why implement dealerships don’t sell welding equipment.

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Campfire 'Bwana
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Hire out the job??

or do what gunner, EdM, and a few others have said.


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Just tag the nut. On a Brown tree cutter the blade nuts have to be tagged or they'll come loose.


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Castle nuts and cotter pins- - - -after using a long wrench and some red loctitie. Once the nut is tight, then drill a hole through the castle area and insert a tight cotter pin.


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hanco Offline OP
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I welded the damn nuts on there, I’ll cut them off if I ever need to remove gear box.

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I used to triple nut one bolt on a Case mower.


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I welded mine like you said can cut them off if needed. Damn brush hogs are a pain!

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Nylon nuts on a Bush hog. Hilarious


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