I went out yesterday to look at a house that is being built for a friend of mine. My first question, when I saw the subfloor, was "Did they glue it, and screw it?"
And the answer is on that little sticker that is on the 2x10 at the front. Good job! I switched over to screws 25 years ago.
Glued and nailed works too, if you apply enough nails and glue, but I'm with you for my own personal building projects. Screwed and glued is just more better. When I did it commercially, I used nail guns and a very heavy bead of adhesive.
I would specify that the 2 x12 be plated with plywood. The knots in the 2 x12 will shrink and fall out. The holes will become an entry point for mice. This is a cheap fix during construction
I would specify that the 2 x12 be plated with plywood. The knots in the 2 x12 will shrink and fall out. The holes will become an entry point for mice. This is a cheap fix during construction
The wall sheathing comes down over the 2x12 if its plywood great but celotex will cover as well and then you have your siding at least how its done in my neck of woods Tom
My wife, and redid some floor at our cabin. Sistered in joists to level the floor. Then T&G 3/4 plywood, strip birch. We used screw only. That floor is solider than the Iowa farm house I'm in now.
These premises insured by a Sheltie in Training ,--- and Cooey.o "May the Good Lord take a likin' to you"
People buy the houses I build because of the quality vs. others they look at. I glue and screw subfloor, which is always advantech. Bottom plates are treated, anchor bolts every four feet. Framing is done with galvanized ringshank out of a gun, sheathing is screwed plywood. Framing members are spanned significantly less than code, walls are 2x6 minimum. I am one of two guys in my area than can and will stick frame a roof. Rafters and ceiling joists 16” o.c., roof sheathing screwed.
I would specify that the 2 x12 be plated with plywood. The knots in the 2 x12 will shrink and fall out. The holes will become an entry point for mice. This is a cheap fix during construction
All I've built and seen built would have the rim joists sheathed when the exterior walls are sheathed. The sheathing is extended beyond the sill plates to tie the wall to the floor assembly. Even if you didn't do that the mice would have to get past the siding to find a knothole.
A job I am working on was supposed to be started in spring but was pushed back due to covid, cost the builder an extra $10,000 in lumber price increases. That is a substantial hit to take right off the bat.
A job I am working on was supposed to be started in spring but was pushed back due to covid, cost the builder an extra $10,000 in lumber price increases. That is a substantial hit to take right off the bat.
i'm living that now. price of my shop went up 15% in a month and would be closer to 50% now if you could even find the materials. i just went and ordered 1000bf of 1x8 white pine siding and 500bf of 2x4's. i will have to let it sit for a year to dry but it will save me a ton of money finishing the inside and it gives me plenty of time to wire and insulate. pretty bummed but better than paying $6.38 for a 2x4x8 framing stud and $40/sheet for sanded plywood and will look a hell of a lot mo bettah.
thats what i want. but it is in the price range of a lot of things i want. i don't have a skid loader or a big enough tractor either so that factors in too.
I would specify that the 2 x12 be plated with plywood. The knots in the 2 x12 will shrink and fall out. The holes will become an entry point for mice. This is a cheap fix during construction
All I've built and seen built t would have the rim joists sheathed when the exterior walls are sheathed. The sheathing is extended beyond the sill plates to tie the wall to the floor assembly. Even if you didn't do that the mice would have to get past the siding to find a knothole.
That's a pretty good assessment. The problem is most severe with vinyl siding.