Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns .357 Mag Revolver, Who Builds The Toughest, Most Reliable?

The Security Six and the S&W K-frames both had issues with short bullets at high velocity, such as the 125 grain .357 Mag that was so popular in the day. Ruger went to the GP100 and S&W went to the L-frame. Both the Security Six and the K-frame were big losses that were largely avoidable at the time and still, but neither belongs on a "toughest" list.

I have both Rugers and Smith's

Ford vs Chevy

As mentioned previous the Smiths IMHO are just more refined in my opinion two faves model 28 and 586

Short of reloading mis hap
Who could really wear out either one?
It would take a lot if your really wore one out you probably got your money's worth

I am surprised not more mention of Blackhawks pretty darn tough
Hank

My King Cobra is pretty stout.

Two years ago I picked up a super clean, pretty much unused 6” SS Security Six. It is a great revolver and I really like it. Compared to my S&Ws, its trigger is not nearly as “refined”, but I shoot it well. I love its “Redhawk Junior” looks. Very old school cool.

Yep...Ruger GP100 would be my choice as the toughest double action revolver...👍....Hb

That's most likely where I'm headed, and yes, Milt Sparks makes great holsters, I already two.

When put together correctly, I believe you are correct. However one must never underestimate Ruger's ability to screw the QC pooch.

Today, I'd order that GP in 10mm.

toughest and cheapest would be redhawk. toughest and nicest would be s&w mod 27. the mod 28 is the same but not as polished. i am a smith guy so thats what i've chosen over the years. but rugers are good too. my brother owns about ever model made and loves them.

33 years and still keeps on ticking. Gets my vote.

Way back when a buddy brought over his brand new .44 Redhawk one day to shoot. I got out my 629 to shoot that day. We both were shooting each others gun. The first thing I noticed shooting the Redhawk besides the trigger was the lag time in the hammer fall. It seem to me it took a long time. I did not like it. At that time the only Rugers I had were the Blackhawks and Single Six's.

His Redhawk is a better gun to test loads with instead of the 629.

I like my GP100. Comes in handy sometimes. Only if my hand can find it and grab it off the floorboard of the truck in time. Ha!


OP-- Get a GP100 4" and be done with it.

Hah! Yep.

I've always liked Rugers, my first being a 4 digit .44 carbine. I've had a lot of their long guns as well as revolvers and a couple auto pistols. The first Ruger revolver I got was a 7 1/2" Redhawk .44 mag which I've had for 29 years. Most of my revolvers are S&W. The only Ruger revolver I've ever had that had a decent single action trigger break was the 2" SP 101 that my brother has had for the last 20 years or so and I'll never get it back from him. To me, the Ruger triggers can best be described as "mushy", and yes, the lock time seems noticeably slow (although not as slow as the Blackhawks I have.)

Highway Patrolman. .357 in an N frame is a stout package. And it’s a Smith.

No way is the GP-100 stronger/rougher than a Redhawk in 357

But it is a lot handier.

Yep but the OP didn't mention handiest or anything about carrying

In that case the GP100

BFR in 357 probably. But it might only be the answer to the less specific initial question.

For EDC DA S&W, Ruger, Dan Wesson, and new Colts are comparable. S&W have good triggers (except J frames) and the most options. The Colt is overpriced. Ruger tends to offer fewer options and they don't offer a custom shop like the S&W Performance Center but if they sell what you want or you're willing to have a 3rd party gunsmith make it what you want then they work fine. Dan Wesson are out of production and while they offer numerous barrel lengths, there's only one frame size that's widely available. The Kimber is also worth considering if it's single frame size is right for you.

If you're serious about training and not just practice, get a revolver that accepts moon clips, a set of 25 to 50 moon clips, and a BMT mooner/de-mooner tool. Use .38 Special ammo or if you handload, mild 357's (like 1251200 or 1581050). With that setup and a good holster you will be able to train in the same classes with all the Glock shooters. There are revolver-specific classes also which I recommend seeking out but you don't really want to be limited to them.

While J-frame, LCR or the Kimber are attractive to many people for EDC, the smaller and lighter it is, the more it sucks for actually fighting which is the reason for carrying it. If you really want a fighting handgun, try an L frame, GP100 or N frame. I suppose a Python, DW or Korth would work too but I don't want to pay that much and still have to cut it for moon-clips. Moon clips aren't that critical for fighting, but they are for training which itself is critical to fighting. A K-frame might be the ideal balance between carry and shooting but they're not offered cut for clips. They can be cut by the PC or by TK or another gunsmith. Don't waste your money on "trigger-job" unless you have an infinite supply of Federal primers. The stock S&W trigger is fine and it will detonate any kind of pistol primer. If you learn the DA trigger pull, you won't need it to be 8 pounds.

Glock 20.