Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Red loctite 🤬🤬

They do make a purple Loctite, that's made for parts that need to be disassembled.

Heat will get it loose

According to Loctite, 550 degrees and then twist while it's hot.

Maybe a drop of red in a bottle of blue will hold better, but still loosen without heat. Blue gets everything done for me. Either that or the bottle of old fingernail polish I bummed off my wife.....it's blue! LOL.

Knowing my luck, I can see accidently dropping a 550 degree heated screw in between my foot and shoe or something similar. Actually, I had heard about heat releasing the red loctite before, but never tried it. I have gotten cursing and stripping screw heads down pretty well though.

Ranger99,

I put you on ignore........to remind me to never buy anything from you.

I use a couple bottles of various loctite a year.

Red for bearing mount . Never on threads . Blue on threads for my industrial uses , never on rings.

I too have had to remove loctited ring mounts....... and 2 soldering irons won't get it hot enough to release. I usually end up drilling them out.

I use a Mapp Gas torch for my industrial needs .

We use locktite on the farm for some applications, blue and red . My understanding is red is for something you never want to take apart. I quit using blue on base screws years ago. It seems to gum up the threads so if you take them out and replace with new screws they can strip easily. Metal heated to 550 degrees would turn red in my opinion. It sure wouldn't be something I would feel comfortable doing to a rifle.

A couple wraps of two pound fishing leader, the screws won't come loose, yet are removable! Finger nail polish works, and acetone loosens it easily! Locktite is for industrial applications and automotive applications!

Purple loctite is so you don't shear off the head on small hardware.

When steel turns red via heat is not subject to opinion.

The problem comes when the surrounding metal is large enough that it draws the heat out of the screw before the screw gets up to the required temperature (i. e., the Loc-Tite melting temperature). It can never get there, or take a long time. My soldering iron is simply too slow to suit me -- I hold a piece of wire (a nail will do) against the screw and heat the wire with a propane torch. Works great.

I use red Loc-Tite some gun applications, e. g., a mag tube in S/A shotgun action. Beretta uses it there, so I figure they must have a good reason, so I do too. Otherwise I use it anywhere high heat from shooting might break blue Loc-Tite down. Blue breaks down at about 300 degrees, but red not until 500 degrees.

I use blue Loc-Tite (242) on screws holding a base to an action, because even properly torqued screws CAN shoot loose in high-volume shooting, and there is no way to check them without removing the rings. I stick with the factory-specified 6-48 screws, and with good installation surface prep and blue LT you can easily twist off a screw head or ruin your tool if you don't apply heat first. Usually 3-5 minutes of a torch-heated nail makes for easy extraction of the screw. That is with blue. If someone used red it will take twice that long. The nail glows bright red where the torch hits it, but it stops glowing before it gets to the screw. But still, I am transferring a LOT more heat than you get out of a soldering iron.

With good surface prep and a well shaken bottle of LT, there is no reason to use red on base screws -- blue is MORE than strong enough, and is a LOT easier to melt when you need to remove that base later.

I usually use nothing on ring clamps and caps, because it is so easy to check them to verify, and I want to be able to snug them up without worrying about breaking the LT bond. But I at times use purple Loc-Tite (222) on cap screws. It does not really set up the way blue and other LT's do -- it just turns into a very thick crud that helps screws resist vibrating out from recoil. It is also re-usable for at least a couple of times. Screws installed with purple can be snugged up, because there is not really any bond to break the way there is with blue.

Neat stuff, but you need to know what you are doing if you are going to use anything other than purple.

If it isn't the high temperature red Loctite, it shouldn't take any more heat than blue. High temperature lists a max working temp of 450, whereas blue and non-high temperature red are 300.

This is why I prefer to use the numbers (242 is blue, 262 is red, etc.). Loc-Tite makes about 50 different formulations.

But I have never run into a "low temperature red Loc-Tite" in any store. It may well exist, but if it does it is not common.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us...og/difference-between-threadlockers.html

Loctite red or blue is not needed. Degrease only . Never used it and never had a problem even on my heaviest recoiling guns.

Guess it depends on where you're shopping. The closest NAPA has 271 in stock, but not 272.

And where did I say anything about low temperature?

Never used any Loctite. Just degreased and torqued to specified inch lbs. Never had any issues with loosening doing this.

orange here

By "low" I just meant "not high" -- 300 degrees as opposed to 450 degrees. However, thanks to this discussion I now realize that 271, while "red" and having a higher torque-break strength than 242 (blue), has the same temperature resistance as 242 (300 degrees).

For some applications I want a higher heat resistance than you get with 242 (300 degrees), so I will have to be careful when I go to replace my bottle of 272, not to buy 271. 272 goes up to 450-500 degrees.

I must be in the minority as I have used red loctite many times on bases and rings with nary a problem. I degrease all the threads, and put just a small amount on the threads.

Have never had anything come loose and never had an issue removing them if needed.

I use the purple (t222) on both bases and mounts. Never had a problem with anything coming lose or not being able to remove the screws if needed. I feel it does help to secure the screws.