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Does anyone know what the thinner is in JB? I started cleaning up a rifle to apply Dyna-Tek and it was being very stubborn. Thought I would hit it with some JB, but my old container has turned from a soft paste into a very firm paste. In the directions it says stir before using if stored for prolonged period, but it doesn't say anything about a thinner. It does say it contains petroleum distillates.
I checked Brownells and the web site says currently unavailable.
Thanks, Jerry
Minnesota; Land of 10,000 Taxes
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Jerry REM oil will work.
Lefty
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Or Kroil, or 5w20 Mobile One
Let's Go Brandon! FJB
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I was thinking about trying some Kroil.
Thanks Jerry
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ON some of the hard carbon'd up barrels, I get small corks from the hardware store in the Nuts and bolts sections. I will plug the barrel at the muzzle and fill the barrel with FREE ALL which is 3x more effective than Kroil. I let the barrel soak for 6 weeks, pull the plug draining the oil, then immediately brush with a new bronze bristle brush, dry patch out, then examine with a bore scope. Repeat. Worst I have seen had 3 soakings. Regarding JB, there are two other products that are just as good, if not better, and easier to use. For shooters using rough factory barrels, worn military barrels, they will find the two products below of particular importance. Also, anyone that shoots long strings in competition or the squirrel, p. dog towns. Used on Issio or Montana Extreme plastic brushes speeds up the carbon removal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FLITZ-GUN-...S-GUNS-/373505021972?hash=item56f6a25814https://www.ebay.com/itm/Western-Powders-Inc-Montana-X-Treme-Copper-Cream-6-oz-Liquid/333665243876?epid=1800384690&hash=item4dafff92e4:g:UEsAAOSwVbVfIK0v Both of the above products used on patches scrubbing back and forth is very effective, with the Flitz being a tad more agressvie. R#15, H4895, Varget can be very difficult to get out of a bore. If you push 4 patches of Free All down the barrel prior to leaving the range, your barrel will come clean a LOT easier. FREE ALL will shock some of the very best mechanics when it comes to getting long time rusted on nuts off. Free All: https://www.amazon.com/Gasoila-Free...rating+oil&qid=1616352242&sr=8-4
Last edited by keith; 03/21/21.
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Might take a look at the JB Materials Safety Sheet. Too long to copy but I found it on the Sinclair site - makes sense as the product is now a Brownell's brand. https://www.sinclairintl.com/userdocs/MSDS/749-102-003_J-B%20(R)%20NON-EMBEDDING%20BORE%20CLEANING%20COMPOUND,%202%20OZ.%20-%20083_default.pdf
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Might take a look at the JB Materials Safety Sheet. Too long to copy but I found it on the Sinclair site - makes sense as the product is now a Brownell's brand. https://www.sinclairintl.com/userdocs/MSDS/749-102-003_J-B%20(R)%20NON-EMBEDDING%20BORE%20CLEANING%20COMPOUND,%202%20OZ.%20-%20083_default.pdf LMAO 40-60% Petrolatum cas# 8009-03-8 = Vasiline
Swifty
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throw that old JB away and get some new JB , JB compound works well to really get the carbon out of a barrel that has been shot a lot.
LIFE NRA , we vote Red up here, Norseman
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I got my Free All from Napa. I had them order it.
Hal
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I was always curious about what the abrasive was in JB, and what "grit" size it is. Maybe the abrasive is volcanic and gets smaller as it is used. It's tempting to get some diamond past with the correct sized grit. However, JB's has such a good rep I'll probably keep using it.
I do not entertain hypotheticals. The world itself is vexing enough. -- Col. Stonehill
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JB Compound is basically jeweler's rouge, which uses very fine iron oxide ("rust") to polish stuff like silver and gold--which is far softer than any sort of barrel steel. It takes a LOT of use of JB to polish steel--which in the long term isn't a good idea, as believe or not TOO smooth a bore tends to copper-foul more than one lapped with, say, 600-grit lapping compound--which is about as fine as I've heard is used from any of the custom barrel makers I've known.
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Don’t use JB much, but it’s been a major help on a couple of old rifles I picked up, including a pre-64 that it changed from a so-so rifle to a solid shooter.
What fresh Hell is this?
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In a thread about J-B that appeared almost exactly ten years ago, I wrote a response to a post by Mule Deer about the composition of J-B bore compound. It seems apropos to post it again. If the composition of J-B has changed in 10 years, I'll be pleased to learn about the change. USP Bore Paste mentioned below is no longer offered by Midway. It is advertised currently on the website of E Arthur Brown https://eabco.com/bore-paste.htm. From what I remember (which may be faulty) JB Compound is essentially a low density mixture of jeweler's rouge (iron oxide). The subject of the abrasive in J-B pops up every couple of years on the fire. The abrasive is aluminum oxide, and the base is a soap-oil mix. The original J-B was developed by US Products: http://www.us-products.com/home.html. They are a manufacturer of abrasives, principally aluminum oxide. (The website is not well organized, but there's a lot of information there.) For a while, US Products made a liquid abrasive bore cleaner marketed as "Gold Medallion". I had a bottle of it in the early 90s. The product was good enough that Remington bought it to sell as "Rem Clean", and Gold Medallion disappeared. J-B stopped being sold for a while, and US Products brought it out again as USP Bore Paste, which is now sold at least by Midway (Product #257358). Brownells obtained the J-B name and sells their version. Poster bobski wrote that J-B has a grit size of about 2500, which would make the abrasive particles about 5 microns in diameter. I looked at some under a microscope once, and the little clear particles were about that size. --Bob
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It would take a lot of work over a long time to lap a barrel with JB, basically from the cleaning rod that is not centered in the bore. We used it daily on new bronze bristle brushes after a long day on p. dog towns. Barrel just kept on shooting small groups, and we followed the JB with Sweets 7.62 to check and make sure all the copper was out.
I make my own lapping solutions, and 600 grit is very, very aggressive on barrels, and the solution that I use on extremely rough barrels is around 1000 grit, which is much less than JB that I could only guess is in the 1200+ grit.
The two products that I mentioned previously are extremely good products for a shooter to have in his tool box when he has to clean barrels that are fouled badly and/or ROUGH factory barrels that are copper and carbon mines.
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Does anyone know what the thinner is in JB? I started cleaning up a rifle to apply Dyna-Tek and it was being very stubborn. Thought I would hit it with some JB, but my old container has turned from a soft paste into a very firm paste. In the directions it says stir before using if stored for prolonged period, but it doesn't say anything about a thinner. It does say it contains petroleum distillates. Nuke it for 20-30 seconds and stir it up......
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I could be wrong but I think I had read about 12yrs ago that the abrasive in J-B paste was diatomaceous earth.That is fossilized single cell diatom algae. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth I've used J-B on all my my rifles and it will certainly clean up carbon and copper quicker than anything I've used.J-B Bore Polish uses garnet powder.That paste is red in color.
Last edited by baldhunter; 03/22/21.
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~ As Bob Hagel would say"You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong."Good words of wisdom...............
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Anyone ever try fine valve grinding compound? It works on scope rings.
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i don`t like to use JB compound that often its alot of work, but when i get a barrel that is carbon fouled bad and groups open up i do this: i screw a brush on the end of the cleaning rod ,with a brush that is the correct size for the bore then a piece of rag that covers the brush that has plenty JB compound on rag . put this combo in barrel push tell its about a 1-2 inches before it comes out of the end of the barrel stop mark rod on rifle end with tape or whatever and start scrubbing barrel back and forth,do not take rod-brush out tell you think your done. its takes hours to get the carbon out when you feel your done run a clean rag in barrel, then another clean rag in there with wipe -out on it to see if barrel is clean.groups should start to improve again if not keep scrubbing,there might be a better scrubbing compound out there for this but i got plenty JB yet, this takes a lot of time its not a 15 minute fix to get carbon out.
Last edited by pete53; 03/22/21.
LIFE NRA , we vote Red up here, Norseman
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JB Compound is made with Unicorn snot and pixie dust.I thought everyone knew that.
Its all right to be white!! Stupidity left unattended will run rampant Don't argue with stupid people, They will drag you down to their level and then win by experience
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I could be wrong but I think I had read about 12yrs ago that the abrasive in J-B paste was diatomaceous earth.That is fossilized single cell diatom algae. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth I've used J-B on all my my rifles and it will certainly clean up carbon and copper quicker than anything I've used.J-B Bore Polish uses garnet powder.That paste is red in color. baldhunter- You have almost certainly read that the abrasive material in J-B is diatomaceous earth. I read the same about 15 years ago in a post on the campfire. I was doubtful, so I put a bit a J-B on a microscope slide and checked it under my microscope. There were no diatoms in J-B. There were lots of tiny bits of what I took to be aluminum oxide, sometimes called synthetic sapphire. But no diatoms. If somebody has checked J-B for themselves and found it to contain diatomaceous earth, I hope they reply to this post. --Bob
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