Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Regular vs Premium

non eth 88 oct here is usually .80 cents a gallon more......

WTF joe ?

Damn it, this here owner's manure is full of chit, I don't need no high proof fuel for this rice burner...


lol

This is a bit OT but why is diesel higher than gasoline when it is just a byproduct of gasoline production? Be Well, RZ.

Taxes?


Hell if I know, we just burn it.


Loaded up about 260 gallons today for the pumps, swather and tractors.

One thing about it, chit doesn't get done without fuel.

If the manufacturer says run premium best to run premium. High compression engines don't like low octane fuel and no matter how much your computer can adjust for the induced knock, you are still risking doing damage to your engine. Good way to burn a hole in a piston or burn some valves from predetonation, among other things. Also, might damage your O2 sensors. None of this is cheap to repair, especially on high end cars like Lexus, BMW, Mercedes, etc..... and to top if off, if your computer shows you were running low octane fuel and logs it into your memory, you will probably lose your warranty coverage for all the components involved-

I’m
Guessing the NAZI EPA had something to do with it. 😡

As I understand 87 octane ignites at lower temp than premium? Hence the dieseling effect when you kill a high compression gas engine with low octane?
There is a lot I don't know about engines but I can promise you the Stihl and Echo brand saws run way better on high octane.

Run what you want. Computer will pull timing back till it’s a dog turd, but you aren’t going hurt anything. Try that with a fixed office (ie carbureted) and you’ve got a different scenario.

If the manual says it needs premium, I'd use premium.

My Ford F-250 says to use regular unleaded, but I run the mid-grade always, and nearly always from a top-tier gas brand.

I'm convinced there IS a difference between the upper grades and regular, and between top-tier and the secondary tiers of gasoline.

Many times, you do get what you pay for in fuel.

I have a buddy that used to haul gasoline. He claimed you could smell a difference between fuel racks at the hub. Don't know if true or if it matters but that's what he claimed.

Short term it will be okay. The computer uses knock sensors to control the timing and there will always be a little bit of knock when it is retarding the timing for the incorrect fuel. So long term it's not a good idea.

If they say premium do it.

I tried it in my ford and it worked so much better till they put more corn in.

Use mid grade now.

It costs a little more to get the sulfur out to meet the new road regs.

That’s blasphemy around here to suggest someone actually put in what the manufacturer recommends. After all, a bunch of geriatric geezers on a hunting forum undoubtedly know more about these engines than the 50 lb head engineers that design them.

God forbid someone should actually use the weight of oil they recommend, everybody knows 20W-50 Amsoil is the best oil for every engine ever made.

If you don't want to buy premium you should have bought a different vehicle.

Cheap octane boost stuff????

Most of those octane boost formulas only up the octane by about .1 octane per can per tank of gas.... a total waste of money... Cheaper to either buy the premium in the first place or buy some race gas and add it into the tank when filling

Wife's '01 RX350L rec's regular unleaded.

So, I bought my mistress Buffy, a rebranded ‘yota because only my main broad gets the euro cars. Does a box of minute rice really get that much worse mileage than the long grain brown organic stuff the manual recommends?

Diesel used to require little to none refining; government regulation required removal of sulfur from it and who knows what is now added to it to replace its lubricity.

I know when the requirement went into effect there was a lot of gelled up trucks that year; we only had four but every one of them got put on the hook on one cold day. There wasn't any ULSD No. 1 at the time. 98 or 99 maybe?

No kidding!

Wiper blades, fuel, oil, tires, you name it. OEM recommendations generally provide the longest service life with the least amount of issues. Granted if you have an engineered turd, it was engineered that way and there are few genuine aftermarket fixes for it, unless its a custom repair.

#liftkitsnfattiresdormanrules