24hourcampfire.com
24hourcampfire.com
-->
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Hop To
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 12,664
D
Campfire Outfitter
Offline
Campfire Outfitter
D
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 12,664
Originally Posted by Magnum_Bob
I use a light wrap of 4 ought steel wool around an old 38cal brush, hose it with g96 or wd-40. Spin it in and out with a rechargeable drill. The lube will keep it from removing any metal but chamber fouling will come out. Mb

I did this with a 357 mag I bought used and had been a training gun for a police academy. They had only shot 38 spcl ammo in it.


The Karma bus always has an empty seat when it comes around.- High Brass

There's battle lines being drawn
Nobody's right if everybody's wrong
GB1

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 17,864
Likes: 2
G
Campfire Ranger
Online Content
Campfire Ranger
G
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 17,864
Likes: 2
I use the Brownell's stainless steel brush, never harmed the chambers on any of my revolvers. I also use Lewis Lead Remover, the best way I've found to clean a leaded bore.

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 15,878
A
Campfire Ranger
Offline
Campfire Ranger
A
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 15,878
Lewis Lead Remover for the forcing cone, small stainless steel bristle brush for the face of the barrel and cylinder. I've also got a dental pick in my range box to clean between the barrel and the top strap.

Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 1
Campfire Regular
Offline
Campfire Regular
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by AJ300MAG
Lewis Lead Remover for the forcing cone, small stainless steel bristle brush for the face of the barrel and cylinder. I've also got a dental pick in my range box to clean between the barrel and the top strap.

Lewis Lead Remover is extremely effective and poses low risk of damage to chamber walls and forcing cone. Stainless steel brush will definitely scratch; I use one to take care of stray scratches on stainless S&W revolvers. A bronze brush (available from Brownells) is better for use on cylinder faces and frame surfaces around the forcing cone, as it’s less likely to scratch stainless steel or cut through bluing.



Every day’s an adventure.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 15,978
Likes: 16
M
Campfire Ranger
Offline
Campfire Ranger
M
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 15,978
Likes: 16

Originally Posted by Boxcarman
Well I'm here to tell you all that the chambers in the cylinder are now lead free. Soaked the chambers with penetrating oil, then wrapped a thin strip of scotch brite around a worn brass brush and carefully spun it slowly with a cordless drill. Did it for about five seconds then cleaned the chamber and checked it with the bore scope Bingo !! lead - be - gone. But I do have a problem now. I dropped one of the Oregon Trail 200 gr. RNFP cast bullets in the chambers and eight out of ten drop right on through. The other two you barely tap them and they fall through. The bullets measured .432", so now what do I do? Tell Oregon Trail the next time I order bullets to send me some sized .434"? I'm guessing when I say I could bump up the velocity and then maybe they would obturate and grab the bore, but then if I bump up the velocity I'm defeating the purpose of reduced loads for comfortable shooting. What do you guys say on this? BCM


Glad to see you went that direction. I have been doing that for years and it works like a charm when folks bring me their revolvers with similar problems. It is simple cheap and effective.


THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.

The Tikka T3 in .308 Winchester is the Glock 19 of the rifle world.

The website is up and running!

www.lostriverammocompany.com

IC B2

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,410
B
Campfire Regular
Offline
Campfire Regular
B
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,410
No need to buy a Lewis Lead Remover. Buy a 2 pack of Chore Boy copper cleaning pads. Strip some copper strands from the Chore Boy pad. Wind them around an under sized copper bore brush. Strips the lead out like magic. One package will last you a lifetime.

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,197
Likes: 8
D
Campfire Tracker
Online Content
Campfire Tracker
D
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,197
Likes: 8
Originally Posted by FWP

Yes, the op does.
Originally Posted by Boxcarman
I recently bought a used Smith & Wesson revolver and in the process of going over it I'm trying to remove a build up of carbon in the cylinder. (yes I have a bore scope) Boy, I'm at wits end on this one. Tried carbon remover and let it soak, Lewis lead remover, by twisting it in the effected area, all the known brands CR10, Shooters Choice, Butch's Bore Shine, Montana, etc, etc. Don't want to just start scraping around in there and take a chance on messing up the bore. You guys have any suggestions? Thanks. BCM

Page 2 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  RickBin 

Link Copied to Clipboard
AX24

569 members (1badf350, 257Bob, 260Remguy, 2500HD, 1941USMC, 219 Wasp, 57 invisible), 2,470 guests, and 1,324 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums81
Topics1,193,902
Posts18,518,528
Members74,020
Most Online11,491
Jul 7th, 2023


 


Fish & Game Departments | Solunar Tables | Mission Statement | Privacy Policy | Contact Us | DMCA
Hunting | Fishing | Camping | Backpacking | Reloading | Campfire Forums | Gear Shop
Copyright © 2000-2024 24hourcampfire.com, Inc. All Rights Reserved.



Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5
(Release build 20201027)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.3.33 Page Time: 0.123s Queries: 28 (0.014s) Memory: 0.8362 MB (Peak: 0.8774 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2024-05-17 18:48:32 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS