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Joined: Feb 2017
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I have just purchased half section of KS which is inundated with coyotes, over-run with raccoons, chewed over by beavers, uprooted by armadillos, and very well stocked with bobcats. We seem to have quite a few of other assorted varmints also (fox, possum, otter, and probably some Ive forgotten to mention or haven't seen just yet).
For those first 5 how well will Bridger #3 4coils cover me? I have a dozen on the way and wish to keep this relatively simple. I'm thinking I will be well covered up to beaver, having never trapped beaver am thinking that as they are bank beavers some 330's may be in order. Will the bridgers cover me on beaver as a leg hold or do I require something more stout?
I would rather just have one trap to "do it all" rather than set coon sets ,yote sets , and bobcat sets with several different sizes of traps, but would like no more than two/3 traps in my garage.
Also I have an issue with my (currently banned ) traps, they went through a fire a few years ago and are considerably weak (and old even before the fire). Can they be rejuvenated in any meaningful way or just used as rabbit traps since my #2's are now gripping like a #0 jumper.
Any feedback is appreciated to guide my purchasing.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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The number 3 four coils are fine for coyote and beaver. And certainly they’ll hold raccoons. They may be a bit severe for coons but they’ll work. I held a beaver in a four coil number 3 caught by a nipple. On a drowner. Not sure it would have held had it not been on a drowner cable. Target front foot catches. Not because a four coil number 3 won’t hold a back foot catch but because it’s easier to center that front foot in the trap and when a beaver’s back foot is spread out it can cause a missed catch if the foot hits off center of the pan.
The one trap does it all concept is hard to achieve. Sizes and characteristics of the different furbearers makes it difficult to assign one for all. You’ll find a lot of beaver trapping situations where a coniber is best suited. And conversely where a foot trap is better suited.
I’d build a trap collection of 1 1/2 coils for rats, mink, coon, fox, possum etc. Number 3 four coils for the beaver, otter, coyote and bobcat and a few 330s for beaver and otter.
I doubt there’s much hope four your fire victim traps. Coils can be replaced but the jaws may be too soft now to withstand any use. If they were coil springs try four coiling one with new coils. Trip the set trap with a one inch oak dowel. If the jaws deform then scrap the trap. If not you may be able to salvage them.
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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I held a beaver in a four coil number 3 caught by a nipple. ouch!
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Joined: Feb 2017
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OP
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The number 3 four coils are fine for coyote and beaver. And certainly they’ll hold raccoons. They may be a bit severe for coons but they’ll work. I held a beaver in a four coil number 3 caught by a nipple. On a drowner. Not sure it would have held had it not been on a drowner cable. Target front foot catches. Not because a four coil number 3 won’t hold a back foot catch but because it’s easier to center that front foot in the trap and when a beaver’s back foot is spread out it can cause a missed catch if the foot hits off center of the pan.
The one trap does it all concept is hard to achieve. Sizes and characteristics of the different furbearers makes it difficult to assign one for all. You’ll find a lot of beaver trapping situations where a coniber is best suited. And conversely where a foot trap is better suited.
I’d build a trap collection of 1 1/2 coils for rats, mink, coon, fox, possum etc. Number 3 four coils for the beaver, otter, coyote and bobcat and a few 330s for beaver and otter.
I doubt there’s much hope four your fire victim traps. Coils can be replaced but the jaws may be too soft now to withstand any use. If they were coil springs try four coiling one with new coils. Trip the set trap with a one inch oak dowel. If the jaws deform then scrap the trap. If not you may be able to salvage them. Thanks for the detailed reply, so with a dozen #3 -4 coil a few 330's and say a couple dozen 1-1/2 coils I can get after 'em or would I be better off with #2 coils as coon/coyote compromise? I don't seem to have rats mink or weasel, at least in any nuisance quantities. I was pretty sure on my annealed traps, but was curious.
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Joined: Dec 2016
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JMHO- I'm no professional for sure. That said, I wouldn't
waste any time with burned traps. Sell em at the recycler
with your scrap brass. The trapping suppliers have a
good selection of whatever you need to do the job you
want to do at a reasonable price
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Joined: Mar 2003
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I’d go with the 1 1/2s, 3 and 330s. And check with your local Game department. They may allow off season trapping by the landowner for damage control but may require permits. Better to establish a good rapport with them than to work outside the regulations and get sideways with them.
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 11,352
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
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Whipped up on the local coons on my river in KS using dogproof traps. They work great with cat food for bait. What part of KS are you in? I'm near Hays. The local quail, pheasants and fawns will thank you for your efforts I am sure. Good luck.
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Joined: May 2012
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Campfire Regular
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I know you mentioned only one style of trap, but the dog proof traps are the best for coons and possums. I have taken 9 possums and 6 coons on 94 acres in a week. I also use cheap dog food and fruit juice and or liquid smoke.
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OP
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Having never used them they are a novelty to me but being a dog man they have my interest. In my deer stand during daylight I was having herds of up to 4 coons trundle on by like they owned the place. At night spotting for deer I don't think I ever went out that I didn't see 1, and often 5-6. My huge pecan trees had hackberry coon [bleep] 4" deep at their bases. Never have I seen so many coons...
30338, Im in SE Kansas, but used to hunt up north of hays back when I wasn't a land owner, really loved it up there if you could be next to water (Soloman). All my landowners died and heirs leased for the big $.
I should add that my trapping experience was PA from way back and all we had was swamp stuff. Rats mink and coon, some red fox which always were smarter than I was. Since then beaver and coyotes have invaded there but back in my childhood it was pretty much just rats... lots of em.
Last edited by llamalover2; 12/15/21.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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Campfire Outfitter
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If you set 6 dog proof traps out around those pecan trees with cat food, would bet you'd have 6 coons in them per night till you hurt the population. I'm south of Hays on the Smoky Hill River. Lot of coons there but fewer than there was lol.
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Got my #3's on the porch just now. Holy [bleep] they are the real deal... need a bigger dowel rod.
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There is no one size fits all to trapping, and trying to take short cuts is a bad way to start off.
The size of a beavers hind foot is too big for a #3. You may catch some, but you will lose and educate plenty. Duke #4 4-coiled is the smallest I would use. I normally stick to 750's.
A number 3 trap is fine for yotes and cats, way too big for coon and fox. You are better off catching coon with dogproofs before they mess up a good set.
I only set 650's where I am specifically targeting yotes or cats. On a mixed line, I use either a fully modified 1.75, or mb550. 550's are not ideal for coon as they can leverage out of the offset (my 550's are offset, 1.5's, 1.75's are closed.) Also 550's have too much pan tension for most grey fox. But they work great for reds, yotes and cats. My 1.75's will hold anything that steps in them without damage.
If you are just starting out the most important thing to learn is how to stake properly for the largest animal you might catch.
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Not mentioned, but you may want totry some of the "dog pruf" traps for coon
Some spelling errors can be corrected by a vowel movement.
~ MOLON LABE ~
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I have caught lots of beaver in #3 Victor Coil and Longspring traps. Caught several in #2 Longsprings before I bought the#3s. A big trap will limit you sometimes on where you can place it. But it will catch higher on the leg and hold them.
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. . . If you are just starting out the most important thing to learn is how to stake properly for the largest animal you might catch.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ this ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Fasten your traps ( any kind of traps or size of trap) as if you expect a grizzly bear or a t rex to step in it
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. . . If you are just starting out the most important thing to learn is how to stake properly for the largest animal you might catch.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ this ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Fasten your traps ( any kind of traps or size of trap) as if you expect a grizzly bear or a t rex to step in it I found a 330 conifer in the dry creek bed and pulled out the metal stake with 2 fingers. It did make me wonder wtf he was thinking. Thats an expensive trap to let a critter walk away from a poor catch hold. I have hundreds of concrete stakes up to 36" long, some #9 wire thru the nail holes and I should be good, this set up holds a llama tethered on only a 24" stake, of course he's not quite as motivated to escape since it would cut off his hay supply to do so. Got some 1-1/2's and some dog proofs in my shopping cart, just letting myself think it over till I commit. May split the difference and get 1 dozen of each. 3 total size of traps is workable for my needs.
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JMHO- if you're buying traps other than MB
or Bridger or the like, and they don't have a thick
frame, go ahead and order the appropriate base
plates and D rings to go with them. I learned my
lesson the hard way about what supposedly docile
animals can do to a trap and the fastenings.
Weld on some base plates, run a bead where the
frame and crossframe are tack welded together and
bubble tip the jaws. I had to do this on Dukes and
Victors both. The Bridgers are ok so far
Good Luck
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Bridger #3 will work great for beaver and coyotes. But they are almost to big for raccoons, with that power there is a good chance you might find a broken arm in the trap and no raccoon. 1.5 maybe 2s are good for coon, but probably not strong enough for coyote unless it's a 4 coil trap.
I did catch a beaver once in a #0 muskrat trap, only reason he was still there is cause I would check traps at 12 at nigh and 7 in the morning
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The size of a beavers hind foot is too big for a #3. You may catch some, but you will lose and educate plenty. Duke #4 4-coiled is the smallest I would use A Bridger #3 is the same size as a Duke #4 and a heck of a lot better trap. I've caught a lot of Beaver with the 4 coiled #3 Bridger.
Old Turd- Deplorable- Unrepentant Murderer- Domestic Violent Extremist
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This will be my last post! Flave 1/3/21
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#3s are big for coon they can get inside the jaws and chew out and are strong enough to break a leg bone and wring out
GREAT for coyotes nice pad catches
small for beaver unless you can guarantee a front foot catch a rear foot is larger than that jaw spread
wish I was closer I'd come over and help you out
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Thanks to all for your input. I have gotten the bridge 4 coil #3's, bridger dog proof coon traps, and bridger 1-3/4 coils.
I think I am all set for some learning, already figured out that I am either the best trapper in history or have a very unlucky neighbours dog. In less than two hours in a blind set where I only set two of the #3's on 320 acres I had a howling blue eyed husky... wtf? He bit me upon release but he was in a lot of pain so I forgave him as he limped off, far as I could tell he had nothing broken, he's a lucky dog as those are strong traps.
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