Originally Posted by TomM1
Originally Posted by kowalski
Originally Posted by clockwork_7mm
Originally Posted by kowalski
Anyone have tips or pictures for bedding 1640 actions? I’ve never done it before and I have two 1640’s that need to be done.

Are you doing the whole action area or just the lug and tang? I'm planning to do the latter in the next couple weeks before floating the barrel then refinishing the stock.



I'm honestly not sure which to do.. Hoping someone can chime in.


I had good luck on several just doing the recoil lug. After your done open up the hole where the action screw feeds through with a rat tail file. You want the recoil lug absorbing the force, not the screw, it should float in the hole. I usually only bed the lug, unless I am trying to prevent wood compression from a tight rear action screw. The Husky’s I’ve played with all had a metal pillar which the rear action screw goes through. This prevents over-compression, so no need to bed tang as long as this pillar/sleeve is bonded well to the wood. The rear of the action where it meets the stock is curved. Take a dremel with a sanding drum of similar diameter as the rear tang and open this up so there is a little gap between the tang and wood. This way when the rifle recoils and the thin magazine wells flex, the tang can move a little instead of being driven into the stock wrist. After you open this area up a little, seal it with Tru-oil, or something similar.

Nothing wrong about your logic on the tang. I do it anyway for two reasons: I like the idea of the bedding being symmetrical (front/back) in case those old metal tubes ever shift. And second, I tape the back of the tang to preserve the metal to wood gap, but I'd rather it be the metal to epoxy gap in case it didn't ever shift the wood stock due to weather, moisture, etc. Not sure that much warpage could really happen, but it's not much effort to dremel a little and tape the tang. I take the trigger fixture off anyway while bedding (pure paranoia lol).