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Will Renaissance wax work for a release agent while bedding a rifle?

I can't say because I've never used it but have been using Johnson's Paste wax for years and like it much better that the release agent that is supplied with Acraglass bedding kits.

It would but regular carnauba wax will do the same . Just make sure you let the wax dry and then buff it until it is gone and then redo the wax and buffing.

As do I... I've used it now for over 20 years and never had a problem...

Same response from here.

Johnson paste wax is a good one as is the mold release wax that comes in the Pro Bed kits.

I've had so-so luck with aerosols but am trying a new one this week on one of my own rifles. -Al

It worked great thanks for the replies. I like it better than the stuff provided.

Johnson paste wax or Hornady One Shot, are all I have ever used

I use kiwi shoe polish

I've used Crisco. It ain't that good....

I use and really like Brownell’s aerosol release agent.

Hornady One Shot is what I have used many, many times.

I've been using it for bedding release agent and general firearm metal protection for almost 20 years. Works great.

I use the aerosol "Acra Release" from Brownells. I know a lot of you guys swear by wax but I worry about being able to get it down into small places well enough.
Phil

Just used it on a epoxied screw and the screw backed right out.

Shoe polish works well also.

I have used this exclusively for 10+ years. Clear Kiwi

Its good for making pie crust..

That's where Hornady one shot case lube shines.. I'm sure the acra release works well too. Wonder what the price difference is?

I’ve even used Vaseline in a pinch. But most anything that costs well and doesn’t affect the bedding material will work.

I've been using Johnson's paste wax for over 30 years. It works great.

Accra release $30 for 14oz can
one shot $11 for 5oz

I've used about everything but one time a buddy told me he uses wax from a toilet wax seal . They are cheap and I just happened to have one on my shelf so I tried it. It worked great but what a fricking mess- I had that stuff everywhere by time I got done....

Why would anyone use a 'release agent' that has a film thickness? -Al

Because they are a newb…. Hey I was once upon a time.

I use brake free oil on a toothbrush.

I also use a toothbrush but with Johnson wax, gets in everywhere then polish with a cloth

Al, for us dummies, which ones would that be?

A bar of soap works you dummies

+++++++++1+++++++++

Someone mentioned toilet wax 😂

That blue poly vinyl stuff from Brownell's is one example of what not to use due to its thickness.

You want something dry...no oils, greases, etc that can contaminate the bedding compound. Paste wax and mold release wax work best.

Good shootin' -Al

That’s kinda what I was thinking. Thanks

You guys take yourselves and your methods waaaaayyyyy too seriously... if you haven't tried it you just can't seem to wrap your head around it, right? You guys crack me up sometimes....

How about sharing your application technique ?

Yup, Kiwi neutral shoe polish works the best I've found. One tin of it is $3 at Walmart and would probably do at least 100 bedding jobs.

What technique? I slobbered some on the parts I needed covered, wiped off the excess to a thin coating, and slapped it into the epoxy. Not exactly rocket science. I did it a whole total of one time and decided it was too messy to continue with that method.... but it was an interesting experiment and it worked fine in a pinch...

Bowl wax is a good & cheap solution for forming dams, plugging recesses, and lubing screws. Gooey as heck, but, it cleans off.

Following advice here, Johnson's, Kiwi, One Shot case lube have all been gtg. Having seen Pam work perfectly well many times, it was without joy to find its fubar for Devcon Plastic Steel! YRMV

I was getting 3.3" (20) shot groups at 800 yards, when I realized to compete with Bart Bobbitt's 3.25" group I was going to have to give up my oil release agent impure habit.

My epoxy was contaminated from touching the oil release agent and was bringing shame on my family.

I spoke with our gunsmithing minister of the benchrest denomination. He said if I interpolated with my Interapid test indicator to less than 0.0001" when dialing in my barrel, that I would be absolved for my gun accuracy ritual misstep:)

And Sheister says it's not rocket science.

I use SnowSeal boot waterproofing.

Finally! A use for that garbage!!!

Not really... there is no legit use for it!

I used to always keep some of the blue stuff around to dip my action screws in. Works great for that and it's easy. Other than that, it's been Johnson's paste wax, a can will last most people a lifetime of bedding jobs, and Hornady one shot case lube for those hard to reach areas.

In 1986 I was loaned to Rocket Research [now aerojet], for the Midget Man missile steering rockets.
I came up with a bone head simple circuit to drive the valve.
The RR chief staff engineer said I had the first new idea in 20 years.

This left me with the impression that rocket science is nothing hard.

Then 30 years later I started watching YouTube videos on missile design, from the V2 through Space X.
Now I think rocket science is hard.

while I willnot recommend it I have seen a guy use a sheet of saranwrap sprayed with wd 40 used between the glass and action

I have taught a lot of new guys to bed. Every time one has had a problem, it was with Wax. There is a learning curve to using wax, and few ever speak of educating the new guys, kinda like giving them the first step out of the 15 that is required.

New guys working with hunting rifles work better with the spray on Accra release from Brownell's. I have never had a new guy have a problem with the Accra release in 30 years. These new guys are not shooting competition rifles.

I used to use waxes for release agents. They worked well for me. Then a member in 24 mentioned shoe polish. I had quite a bit of that and am using it now. That works great too.

Keith, when walking someone through the process, I instruct them to warm up the receiver before putting the mold release wax on. It's buffed off and then a second coat goes on and is buffed off. Most people that get in trouble with waxes either don't do the two coats, get a mechanical lock due to not thinking through the epoxy flow or simply use too much bedding compound. Some QTips are great for getting wax into tight areas. Play Doh instead of modeling clay is another useful tip.

For screw threads, wax on the finger tips or a light oil works as long as it doesn't squeeze out around the threads when tightened.

Most of this is just basic common sense with a good dose of experience thrown in. Some of the stuff posted when this comes up shows that a clear understanding of what's trying to be achieved is not in place. 😉

Some of the best tutorials on bedding can be found in The Benchrest Shooting Primer. Most of these involve bolt ins and are directly applicable to hunting and live varmint rigs. Norman Johnson's articles on bedding that ran in the Varmint Hunter Magazine are also top notch.

Good shootin' -Al

Thanks Al, that was great advise. I found that with the new guys on bedding, there is no such thing as common sense, everything is brand new. Many of these guys, I was trying to help over the phone, also.

Agreed, Keith.

As you know from your experience doing many successful bedding projects over the years, much of the stuff that really matters is subtle, hard to describe, is often a 'feel' type of thing and doesn't always lend itself well to pictures. If the basics are correct, it's truly the details that make the difference.

A good example of this is the dial indicator test I use on a completed bedding job. I helped a shooter a couple weeks ago 'long distance' work through this with a gun he had just had built by a big name shop that also did the bedding job. It was tossing shots and generally not responding to load or bullet changes...just sort of stuck in the 5/8's range for three shot groups. I walked him through the dial indicator test and he reported that there was absolutely z-e-r-o wiggle on the indicator. Since there's always going to be a couple thou. of wiggle on a stress free job, I suspected the action was bound up in the stock. This proved to be correct and he needed a rubber hammer to get the action out of the stock.

After exchanging texts and pics over a couple day period, the problem area in the recoil lug mortise was identified and I walked him through correcting it.

The gun now shoots solid and repeatable 3/8's three shot groups...which I consider pretty outstanding for a 7 lb. 'all up' 308W hunting rig with a lower power variable shot from the bench with a bipod and a rear bag and hunting grade bullets.

He was a good student, wanted to learn and is confident enough to do his own bedding work from this point forward. That's what I find rewarding about the sharing of information.

Good shootin', Keith! -Al

That guy should stick with cooking tapioca pudding.

Thanks Al! I am sure that many appreciate your input, I sure do!

Keith

I had an old beater I was messing with and tried wax paper and it worked, haven't tried it again though.

Benchresters do not use release agent.

And they don't wear underwear.