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Inspiring work! Nicely done.
Laymans question - how straight does the barrel stay after removing all the material for the aluminum shroud? Curious if you needed any special support to do it
To keep it straight, it takes some time. Small cuts with lots of coolent and supported by a steady rest. I did the barrel 1/2 at a time. I wish I’d added those skills to my life - fascinates me to this day. Nice work - keep us posted on your progress
Last edited by PintsofCraft; 02/03/22.
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Thanks, will do!
I'm still looking for a new take off, SS 22-250 barrel from a T3X. I'd love to add that to this rifle.
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I'm curious what the goal was? Hard to better the accuracy of a Tikka out of the box, and they are not what I would call heavy to begin with. Seems like a lot of effort to shave a few ounces if that was the goal...
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Nice work. It’s obvious you spent some tim thinking about each step, based on your answers to some of the questions asked. Spinning the assembly to distribute epoxy was a good idea.
I think the flutes are good next step.
Don't speculate when you don't know, and don't second guess when you do.
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I remember Lothar Walther offered barrels like this 10+ years ago.. but it seems they never started mass producing them.
Maybe flute the Aluminium to increase surface area even more?
The Aluminium at least transfers heat, while CF is a poor conductor. I remember seeing barrels for Ruger 10/22’s and a couple of 22 pistols that were aluminum sleeves over steel, even fluted. I don’t remember who made them though.
Last edited by drano 25; 02/03/22.
Don't speculate when you don't know, and don't second guess when you do.
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I'm curious what the goal was? Hard to better the accuracy of a Tikka out of the box, and they are not what I would call heavy to begin with. Seems like a lot of effort to shave a few ounces if that was the goal... I really wanted to see if I could really do something different. The aluminum acts like a big heat sink, and should really aid in barrel cool off. Also, I wanted a large diameter barrel, without the weight. I got that too. No flies on a factory Tikka, as I own a few of them. But now, I have a large diameter switch barrel, that doesn't weigh a ton. Not to mention, it's pretty cool!
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I remember Lothar Walther offered barrels like this 10+ years ago.. but it seems they never started mass producing them.
Maybe flute the Aluminium to increase surface area even more?
The Aluminium at least transfers heat, while CF is a poor conductor. I remember seeing barrels for Ruger 10/22’s and a couple of 22 pistols that were aluminum sleeves over steel, even fluted. I don’t remember who made them though. Tactical innovations made them, I think. I've never seen one for a center-fire rifle though.
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That's a pretty nifty project. Nice work!
WWP53D
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I'm curious what the goal was? Hard to better the accuracy of a Tikka out of the box, and they are not what I would call heavy to begin with. Seems like a lot of effort to shave a few ounces if that was the goal... I really wanted to see if I could really do something different. The aluminum acts like a big heat sink, and should really aid in barrel cool off. Also, I wanted a large diameter barrel, without the weight. I got that too. No flies on a factory Tikka, as I own a few of them. But now, I have a large diameter switch barrel, that doesn't weigh a ton. Not to mention, it's pretty cool! 10.4. That is one problem with carbon, I've read conflicting reports on whether it traps heat or aids in cooling. The only thing that would worry me is the JB weld. Epoxy gets soft when heated. Not sure what other options there are though.
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I remember Lothar Walther offered barrels like this 10+ years ago.. but it seems they never started mass producing them.
Maybe flute the Aluminium to increase surface area even more?
The Aluminium at least transfers heat, while CF is a poor conductor. I remember seeing barrels for Ruger 10/22’s and a couple of 22 pistols that were aluminum sleeves over steel, even fluted. I don’t remember who made them though. Tactical innovations made them, I think. I've never seen one for a center-fire rifle though. Yes, that’s them. I don’t think I’ve ever seen it on a centefire either.
Don't speculate when you don't know, and don't second guess when you do.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Cool thread.
It nice to see someone playing outside the box.
Kudos!
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I'm curious what the goal was? Hard to better the accuracy of a Tikka out of the box, and they are not what I would call heavy to begin with. Seems like a lot of effort to shave a few ounces if that was the goal... I really wanted to see if I could really do something different. The aluminum acts like a big heat sink, and should really aid in barrel cool off. Also, I wanted a large diameter barrel, without the weight. I got that too. No flies on a factory Tikka, as I own a few of them. But now, I have a large diameter switch barrel, that doesn't weigh a ton. Not to mention, it's pretty cool! 10.4. That is one problem with carbon, I've read conflicting reports on whether it traps heat or aids in cooling. The only thing that would worry me is the JB weld. Epoxy gets soft when heated. Not sure what other options there are though. Bingo. Carbon fiber does not conduct heat very well. They use either atomized aluminum, or tungsten to their epoxy to help with cooling. But if they added too much, you wouldn't be able to see the fibers. As for JB, it's good to 500 degrees. I don't think I'll ever get it that hot. But, as a fail safe, the muzzle is threaded. If the epoxy were to ever fail, the sleeve would not be allowed to move due to being held together by a tightened nut, ie, brake, cap, or suppressor.
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That’s a neat project you’re playing with. Congratulations on it shooting as well as it does. Please keep us updated on your next tweaks.
Mark
NRA Life Member Anytime anyone kicks cancers azz is a good day!
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Oh The Drama!
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That’s a neat project you’re playing with. Congratulations on it shooting as well as it does. Please keep us updated on your next tweaks. Thanks! Will do for sure!
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Wow. That's very cool. I don't suppose I could piggyback this thread to let everybody know I too am quite handy. Why, just yesterday I bolted an MDT chassis to a T3 223 barreled action.
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Wow. That's very cool. I don't suppose I could piggyback this thread to let everybody know I too am quite handy. Why, just yesterday I bolted an MDT chassis to a T3 223 barreled action. 😁
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High temp loc-tite might be a good choice but the clearance has to be much less. Also, there can be an issue getting the pieces together before the adhesive sets up. I have sleeved barrels using both acra glass and loc-tite and the epoxy is much more forgiving and gives you time to work. GD
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Did you stress relive them after turning them down
If not, how did you mange to take off so much material without introducing new stresses?
You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.
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Did you stress relive them after turning them down
If not, how did you mange to take off so much material without introducing new stresses? Small cuts, with the correct speeds and feeds. Plenty of coolant, and control any chatter. I thought about having these cryod, but I really took my time cutting these without producing much heat. Most of my heat left with the chip.
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