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Joined: Apr 2011
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I loaded nickel plated winchester for my 22-250 and my groups opened up about 1/2 inch compared to winchester brass with same load.

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Originally Posted by Sam_H
Originally Posted by autoshopteacher
I used to load .45 ACP nickle brass. Taper crimped. I thought I had problems getting the nickle brass to hold tightly to the bullet.


Any chance the nickel plated .45s were Remington? And were you using .451" jacketed/cast bullets?


Sorry to take so long to reply. .451 jackets and I don't remember the brass manufacturer, but it was multiple. This happened in '84 or '85.

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I've got a couple hundred Federal 22-250 nickel cases I can't figure out whether to use or not.


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I have used nickle brass to help differentiate my hotter loads and/or defensive loads in handguns for years. If its a .357, 44 mag, 45 colt or 45 acp in nickle its easily identified from afar. I haven't had an issue with any and most of my .357 is brass I bought from a 5 gallon bucket, so who knows how many firings before I got it.

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Unplatted brass cases turn green with corrosion in leather loops. Nickel cases remain untarnished for a very long time.

Just sayin' :-)

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I have used nickel plated .280 Rem brass for decades with no real issues. I also use it for my .40 S&W and 10 mm hot self defense loads. Also for wife’s .38 Special+P and .357 Mag carry loads. Adjust the resize and crimp a bit for desired effect is all. I would also agree it’s a bit harder on the case trimmer cutter. For some reason the only real loading issue I remember was with 10 mm auto Federal nickel plated brass, and heavier 180 or 200 grain JHP’s. I just made it a point to use regular brass for the heavy bullet loads. As the world of reloading frequently gets squeezed by supply chain issues or overwhelming demand, I tend not to turn down any reloading supplies of calibers I load for(and even some I don’t) because I may regret it somewhere down the line. Just a thought.

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Pulling bullets from nickel plated brass can be challenging other than that.....I prefer nickel plated brass when available. Using the cream case lube is a wise sizing procedure.

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I have used it for 30 years in 30-06 and 25-06. I size the same, anneal the same and it shoots the same. Only difference I can tell is what was mentioned about it dulling cutter heads quicker. It does do that.


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I am using it in my .280. It is Winchester brass. No issues.

There was some talk a while back about nickel brass. Some benchrest shooters said that small bits of the nickel plating could flake off and enter the barrel. The bullets would then pick up the bits of nickel and score the barrel. Not sure if this is true. I'm still using the .280 brass though.

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Back in the day I bought 1000 nickel 45acp brass. my idea was it would be easier to find it in the grass after shooting. I was wrong, it’s just as hard if not harder to find then brass colored.
I have nickel brass in every caliber I load for and never had a problem with any of it.

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Never noticed much of a difference with pistol brass like 38 Spl.,or 357 Mag. in regards to nickel plated vs. non plated. The most experience I had with rifle brass was years ago when I had a bunch of nickel plated .30-30 brass and it all seemed good. I was always waiting for some of the nickel plating to start chipping off like I heard could happen but have never experienced it. IME it seems to be a non-issue.

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Lots of old wives tales about it. Non seem to hold much water though.


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Never a problem. Brass is brass regardless of the color.

GreggH

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its all use never had a problem with it loads trims sizes and shoos the same as non plated brass

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The only nickel plated brass I use on a regular basis is Winchester 375 H&H brass bought from sps a few years back. It works quite well, although I have to admit no case has been reloaded more than twice.

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Only nickel brass I’ve used was for a 280AI.

Quite a few pieces started flaking after fire forming so I gave the lot away to someone on here and went back to regular brass.

Sample of one.


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