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Joined: Dec 2004
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Originally Posted by old_willys
Originally Posted by JeffA
Originally Posted by old_willys
The unit I have is a Goulds EP0411, found it on Amazon for $450. Spoke with a local handyman that works many of the neighboring camps roofs, sewers etc.. he has changed a number of septic pumps and stated the less the camp is used the more likely the pump will fail, the more they seat they fast they will freeze up.

For the prior 6 year since it was built the owner used it 5 or 6 weekends a year we retired here and converted it to a full time residence.

So?
Did ya figure out them two wires?

Yesterday water came flowing out of the "sealed" 8x8 junction box; the water is now below that level so I opened it and hopefully it will dry out before I start working on the electrical connections to the pump.

Will take a picture of the layout and maybe someone can make sense of the wiring. The junction box has 5 cables coming to it with a mess of wire nuts connecting 2 floats, the pump power? and the 2 romex power cables.

A few pictures will be worth a thousand words...hopefully🙃

There is about a 99.9% chance that second float, the one installed the highest, will be a high level alarm.

Problem is most septic system installers do their own wiring and some of them ain't real good at it.

Sooooo, it might get a little confuzing depending on what they've done to get the pump to operate AND the alarm circuit to function using a single power source.

The short of it is, the lower float turns the pump on and off and the upper float turns the alarm on and off.

Both floats are exactly like light switches you have in your home, they just turn the power on and off.

But there can be endless variations such as a nifty test button to test your alarm or even a reset button for the pump motor that can function on thermal overload.

Best is to figure whatever they did to start with worked so just pay attention to what was where when you started and just work with one wire at a time.

A quick image with your phone before you disconnect any of the wires can be priceless when it comes to putting it all back together.

If you give up and need to call a pro, call a electrician not a septic tank company.


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Originally Posted by Valsdad
Never heard of pumping your scheidt water up to let it drain down above grade.

Guess it works, since so many of you have them/know about them.

Are the sand piles planted in grass, or just a bare pile of sand in the yard to look at?

They can be anything ya want them to be, it's your sand and your yard.

Common around here is to add a little topsoil and lay sod.

Gotta figure this, often here around me it's a 60 inch tall mound that's required.

To achieve that it requires 12 feet of slope around the mound, all four sides, to keep erosion at bay.

That requires a pretty big footprint for a 1000 gallon tank and a couple hundred feet of drain field plus the slope.

That slope works perfectly for a riding lawn mower to be able to get up and over the mound.

Some can't afford that much space so they put the system in a corner of a lot, build retaining walls on a couple of sides so they can encroach on their property lines eliminating the need for the 12 feet of slope on the retaining wall sides.

I typically, like many near me, add some extra sand to extend my slope on one side to a lesser grade so I can easily drive up on top my mound.

We're coastal, we get hurricanes, we flood.

A 5ft high parking spot comes in handy during King tides and storms that create tidal surges.

Pretty common to see motorhomes and other vehicles that are seldom used sitting atop septic mounds year round.

Some properties have pretty good soil for a septic system to start with so they can sink their tanks a couple of feet into the ground and just have a 3ft high mound.

It all depends on what your county engineers might require.

There can be a lot of variations.

Last system I did I called the most exspensive contractor in the county for a quote before I submitted my request for permit.

They gave me a price range of $7500.00 for a simple system and $17,500 for the most complex system our county might require.

The complex system required two tanks and a air blowing system that supposedly helps keep the little schit eating bacteria fellers alive in the drain field.

Ended up the county just required the simplest of systems.
I got more quotes and ended up paying $5,500 for that system.

These prices are probably on the low side, it's Florida, people work for cheap. Costs are hinged on a customer base that's living on fixed retirement incomes, they can't squeeze blood outta a turnip so they charge accordingly.

Once you've seen one of these mound systems installed you'd realize they could be homeowner done pretty easily.
Especially with the plastic septic tanks they use today that can be man handled.
It's just a matter of moving sand around and shaping it and gluing PVC pipe together. It's not rocket science.

You could do it with a shovels if you had too, everybody and their brother owns a little Kubota with a bucket on it anymore, that'd make it a breeze.
My last contractor showed up with a little skidsteer which worked out well.

So they can be anything from a Tulip garden to a parking lot.

Mines gotta big hole in it right now.
My dog likes to dig in the sand, he knows there is something down there, he can smell it and probably hears it at times.
He'll dig for a while then just back up and lay in that hole.

So it's his sandbox...

Joined: Dec 2007
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Originally Posted by old_willys
Originally Posted by JeffA
Originally Posted by old_willys
The unit I have is a Goulds EP0411, found it on Amazon for $450. Spoke with a local handyman that works many of the neighboring camps roofs, sewers etc.. he has changed a number of septic pumps and stated the less the camp is used the more likely the pump will fail, the more they seat they fast they will freeze up.

For the prior 6 year since it was built the owner used it 5 or 6 weekends a year we retired here and converted it to a full time residence.

So?
Did ya figure out them two wires?

Yesterday water came flowing out of the "sealed" 8x8 junction box; the water is now below that level so I opened it and hopefully it will dry out before I start working on the electrical connections to the pump.

Will take a picture of the layout and maybe someone can make sense of the wiring. The junction box has 5 cables coming to it with a mess of wire nuts connecting 2 floats, the pump power? and the 2 romex power cables.

There should be two romex wires, a 12 feeding the pump and on/off float and a 14 feeding the alarm float. They are supposed to be fed power on separate breakers should your pump burn out and trip the breaker the alarm still has power to trip the alarm. Wiring is fairly simple, the black and white on the alarm float get wired to black and white on the 14 ga romex. On the pump the black from the pump gets wired to the black float wire and the white float wire gets wires to the black on the romex. Then white and ground from the pump to white and ground to the romex wire. The alarms I use get mounted inside the house and plugs directly into a wall socket. The pump gets wired directly to a breaker.



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Rained all day so no electrical work today..


Ted
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All in good time


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My ignoree,s will never be Rock Stars on 24 hr campfire.....Like me!!!!

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