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Originally Posted by Spotshooter
Jut a thought..

I would be concerned with having residual moisture in the bore and around the rifle itself after the fact, water has a sneaky way of getting into small gaps like under scope bases and between the stock & metal..

I’m be sure to leave the rifle out in a place it’s by circulating air to evaporate that before I put her up.



+1


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Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
Originally Posted by flintlocke
Bore Tech Eliminator contains a water soluble detergent, gets out the stuff soap and water gets out without worry of rust. Carbon as encountered in engines and gun bores is water soluble/hygroscopic.
That stuff sure has strong reviews. Going to get some. 👍
A bit of trivia, I used to maintain radio repeater diesel gensets, they ran with too light of a load and carboned up the fuel injector tips, nothing worked as good as Bore Tech for cleaning the nozzles.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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BWHAHAHAHAHAHA..

Glad I wasn’t sipping on a soda drink when i read that.


Originally Posted by luv2safari
Originally Posted by high_country_
I was a bit nervous about moving the point of impact around due to shrinkage, but it proved to be a non issue.


Careful. A 308 could shrink to a 243.
crazy

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I was thinking that - the pours of the metal are open when it’s HOT… having water in there means you could get some bonding down deep…
But I don’t know enough to say it’s true -
Then again I do know if You REALLY REALLY clean metal and remove every whisper of oil, when damp it will often form a super light rust on it you almost can’t see…

If you wipe it you’ll see it during the white glove test…. yikes.



Originally Posted by high_country_
Originally Posted by luv2safari
Originally Posted by high_country_
I was a bit nervous about moving the point of impact around due to shrinkage, but it proved to be a non issue.


Careful. A 308 could shrink to a 243.
crazy
If you are ever bored, put an indicator on a piece of metal and warm it up and then cool it down....it moves....a bunch.

I made a living getting 20' structural steel to be +/- 1/32" in 20 feet with heat and water.

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Originally Posted by high_country_
I just rebarreled a 300win and needed to get some seasoning done on it....but it's hot here. I decided I'd give the barrel a full load of water to absorb the heat and then proceed with my cleaning regimen.

I let the water soak in the bore for about 3 or 4 minutes and it came out hot, repeated 2x and it was cool. I then pushed a clean dry pat h through the bore to dry it so I could get to cleaning and out came the most powder fouled patch I've ever seen.

I was barely able to get anything more with hoppes and elbow grease.

Repeated this a few times every 6 rounds and was pleased with the results....but this got me thinking,we use dawn dish soap and water in the rotary tumbler and it is excellent on the carbon.

Perhaps good old dawn and water has a place and space on the bench.
The barrel being hot likely contributed to the effectiveness of filling the bore with water for a short soak followed by a patch swabbing.

IC B2

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Originally Posted by Valsdad
I use a hair dryer after cleaning the BP rifle.

All around, under the sight, under the thimbles for the rod, everywhere. Until I can't hold it with bare fingers.

Should work on a smokeless powder rifle too?
Compressed air from a power air compressor works great, too.

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