Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Cheap wire corroding

As as been shown, lots of electrical corrosion/electrolysis inhibitors available, they're useful. But for starters, try to find wire from a reputable manufacturer. Carol is one brand that comes to mind. I've used thousands of feet of it, good stuff.

Folks with better memory or that are in the business might name more.

Dielectric grease doesn’t impede electric flow but it does seal spark plug boots, battery terminals and other electric connections from corrosion.

Rosin core solder is one of the main culprits of corrosion on PCB’s and electronic connections. When soldering wires I use a can of flux dip the ends in the flux then use a straight 60/40 non flux core solder. Cleans all the oil and anti corrosion sealers off the strands.

Jeff, yep it does but you still have to cut the stuff off. 2 wraps tape, 2 wraps of mastic followed by 3 wraps of tape and that connection is damn near permanent and completely element proof.

In manufacturing that's heavily controlled, a solder pot without flux is often prescribed for tinning wires using the dip method, and no flux is used.

As far as fluxes causing corrosion on components and boards, the solution is to use the solder containing the correct flux for the application (followed by a proven cleaning regimen). Flux is not just flux...there are many different formulations.

I have been using rosin core, but to be fair, all the old belden wire I have is holding up well 20 years later. This new crap doesn't make it a year before it's a white powder mess. It acts like it's aluminum conductor.

I've made literally 10s of thousands of crimped Sta-Kon® connections while building control panels in a licensed UL shop.

They don't fail, it's the brand of product you're using and possibly the crimper tool and method.

I never use insulated connectors, I only dimple crimp.

Use:



And:



Put the smooth side down in the crimpers and the 'dimple' directly on the seam in the fitting. The seam should roll in securing your NON SOLDERED wire perfectly, every time.

No solder, no gobbledygook, no tape, no nuttin but your crimp fitting and wire.

If you need waterproofing and/or insulation, cut a short section of shrink tubing and slip it over the wire prior to crimping your fitting on. You should be able to slip the shrink right up over the crimped throat of your fitting. Your finished job will look like a pro did it.

Dipping your wire in a little No-Ox wouldn't hurt anything if your connection will be in a damp or humid location.

Good brand:

For joints that can be exposed to moisture the shrink tube with adhesive in it is best, I have numerous underground splices that are going on twenty years that I just used well splices on.

I use the method for insulating connections on larger electric motors.
You should be able to sink a razor knife through the outer layers of tape and the mastic, make a single deep cut and peel it back like a banana right down to your first tape layers. Wear a glove when making that cut!

For any use of automotive wire I prefer marettes with a dab of di-electric grease on the wire twist. Of course this is not always possible due to space constraints. Those damn crimp on thingys are a recipe for disaster. My electrical service kit is marked on top. USE MARETTES - HINT.

For any vehicle application (car, truck, boat, plane...) soldering is not recommended. Use crimp-on only.

According to what standard?

The fused joints might crack.

And a crimped splice might fail.

There ARE standards, compiled by industry experts and not shadetree mechanic word of mouth.

Well why did my 04 Jeep door/lock/ window control wires break in the boot?

Wha?

Union labor?

Hell i don't know that is what was taught back in auto mech in the 60's.

These days they can't even get insulation to stay good.

Federal Aviation Administration:
Aircraft Electrical
Wiring Interconnect
System (EWIS)
Best Practices

Additionally:

According to ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) "all connections between connector and wire need to be mechanical crimped."

Yes..if only to prevent the twist and black tape.

I would refer you to J-STD-001, IPC-A-610, IPC/WHMA-A-620 and maybe a few others. In some cases manufacturers prescribe deviations from these standards by contract and engineering documentation which the IPC standards recognize and endorse.

NASA recognizes a soldered splice, but prescribes certain methods.

I have reviewed FAA's Advisory Circular 43.13-1B CHG 1, and that document does provide some detailed guidance on the use of crimped splicing devices but does not prohibit soldered splicing techniques. I noted also it was released with Change 1 in 1998.

I'm using burndy crimpers and quality components and have tried everything known to man to combat the issue.... but any wire exposed to atmosphere.....even when cut turns to junk. My method isn't the problem, it's a material issue.

I just need to know who still makes quality wire....not Chinese garbage.

None of this is getting solved after 8 am today though, I'll be elk hunting for the next 30 days.