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Originally Posted by Mackay_Sagebrush
Originally Posted by 79S
Mackay,

What have you seen far as bullet set back during recoil and excessive pressures? You think this might have happened with Dennis reloads? I know when I load up 10 or 40 ammo I do use a Lee factory crimp die.

It is pure speculation without being able to observe anything. Bullet setback could be a cause. Many things can be a contributing factor to that that do not get considered too often.

Dirty dies is one thing that rarely gets discussed, but most could use maintenance. When running progressive presses and loading any decent volume they need to be maintained. Most don't do regular maintenance. Most dies contain built up crud in them and especially when using hard cast bullets with lube, the build up happens faster.

My toolheads get pulled on a regular scheduled interval and I use 99% alcohol (I buy it by the case) and a bunch of swabs to clean them to make sure they are free of buildup as it does not take much to affect the overall length. I go through a very specific cleaning routine to ensure that the machines are extremely clean.

In the case of Dillons (being the most commonly used progressive) another thing is the powder funnels in the powder station. Most use some manner of lube on cases when doing high volume, and depending on the mix, it can cause some powder buildup in the powder drop. This is one of those areas that does not get checked often enough by some folks and then they have inconsistent throws.

I have torn down a few powder stations for guys and shown the individual the blockage before. It is normally caused by the lube from the cases. Mine get cleaned constantly while loading. You will get inconsistent powder charges otherwise. For example, you may go from a standard charge of 10 grains and then the buildup starts slowly reducing charges, and you get charges of 9.7, 9.8, 9.8. 9.9, etc, then you can go one way or another. The powder may dump in a clump, and you get a 13 grain charge instead of a 10, or you get almost no powder at all.

It pays to be super diligent and have a very clean press.



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

My 1100 thats dedicated to heavy 9mm gets torn down to the frame on a regular basis:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


All of this is to show and to say that it is very easy to have an inconsistent powder charge and not know it if you are not on top of various aspects of press maintenance.

There can be lots of reasons why Dennis' incident happened.

There may have been an unknown barrel obstruction. A piece of dirt, branch, etc. Various things.

I was at a range years back with a concrete pad and an agent dropped some factory .45 rounds from his hand. One dropped on the nose and it pushed the bullet back into the case. I saw it and picked it up. The
guy was not a "gun guy" and did not know that it was not a good idea to shoot the round. Bearing in mind it was a .45 230 grain round, it likely would have not been an issue, but the point is that lots of things can, and do happen.

That is a good example of setback and excessive pressure. In the case of .40 and 10mm, they don't really have much room for error, especially when it comes to the top end. performance rounds. Any sort of setback at all, and I would not shoot them.

Longshot, the powder Dennis was using is a very low pressure powder and is very forgiving. You can get excellent velocities and not see much in terms of pressure. It is one of the better powders out there in terms of upper end performance in semi autos. It also meters very well. Some powders don't but it is one of the better ones for precise metering. The actual intended charge weight of the load does not sound like an issue at all.





Back to the topic of the LEE crimp dies

I too use LEE crimp dies and they are great for making very consistent ammo. I use an assortment of other dies. Some may be standard Hornady or RCBS or a Wilson or Redding Micrometer, but I very much prefer the LEE for crimp dies. Especially for revolver ammo. Their roll crimp dies are the only way to go for heavy hunting ammo in revolvers.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for the heads up on the powder funnel on the Dillon progressives. I run a 650 and granted don’t load like you but I never bothered looking funnel tube. I will now add that to my list of things to do. Also need to clean my dies more often. Thanks again..


Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

Suckin' on my titties like you wanted me.
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79s

No worries Friend.

A lot of these things were learned the hard way and I got tired of pulling rounds apart over the years, Grin.



Dennis' topic is a good conversation to have as it brings up things that others may not be considering. I do a lot of development of loads on 550s as they are like the chevy 350 of the press world. Super easy to work on too.

On the 550/650, the powder measure assembly has the ability to pull the top, with all the powder still inside w/o spilling powder everywhere so you can access the powder funnel to clean it.

I pull mine on a regular basis, while full of powder and give the funnel a quick cleaning. It does not take 5 minutes to pull it, clean and put it back together. Then run a dozen or so charges to confirm the consistent dops and carry on.

This is an example from a quick clean.

Seating die:



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


In the case below, most of this debris is a combo of shaved brass and lube. It is so fine it is almost like a paste. Not really hurting anything at the point of buildup where it was but it gets cleaned anyways. It requires quite a bit more to actually change the overall length of a round, but there is no reason to let it get anywhere close to that dirty.
The shaving happens when the cases get belled/flared prior to the bullet getting seated, then when the bullet gets seated, a very tiny amount gets shaved. The less flare you have, the less shaving occurs BTW. Most will recognize this by the resistance they feel when trying to seat the bullet when a case has been flared too much.

Anyways, the micro shavings do get built up and need to get wiped out during regular maintenance.



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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I've got a Square Deal B that I have never even seen the powder funnel, guess I better pull it apart and clean things up a bit just to be on the safe side.

Good info!

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Dennisinaz: I worked on a large west coast first class cities Police Department for 29 years - the last nine years the department switched their 1,100 (one thousand on hundred!) officers over to Glock pistols in 40 S&W caliber.
Those 1,100 officers were required to "qualify" twice a year with said Glocks using defense type factory ammunition!
I figgered it up and that came to a total of 990,000 (nine hundred and ninety thousand!) rounds fired without a single "blow-up"!
I have NO idea why you blew up your Glock but I do know that I use all my Glock pistols with complete confidence and proficiency.
Long live Glock.
Hold into the wind
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I have seen Glocks let go. 1911s, Beretta M9s, M240s, M249s Colt/FN M4s, etc all of them have failures (usually ammo related (or in the case of GPMGs and LMGs firing too much ammo too quickly and overheating the weapons, which os more of an operator issue than a weapon failure as far as I am concerned) and let go at one point in time or another.

I have also seen PLENTY of AK-47s fail in spite of what the general public believes through tall tales about their reliability.

It can and does happen. Anything that is a mechanical device is subject to failure. While it is my opinion based on observation and experience that the Glocks primarily the full size Gen 3 9mm such as the G19/G17) are about the single most reliable semi auto service sidearm available, I don't think they are impervious to failure.

Even Ruger Blackhawk revolvers can and will fail from time to time. It happens.


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Seems to be more 40 S&W Glocks that KaBoom than any other



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Mackey,
A little off topic, what are OEM springs in gen3 and gen4 G19s?

And, should they be replaced with rods for buffalo bore +P Outdoorsman 147gr hard cast?

Thanks.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
Mackey,
A little off topic, what are OEM springs in gen3 and gen4 G19s?

And, should they be replaced with rods for buffalo bore +P Outdoorsman 147gr hard cast?

Thanks.

Gen 3 and 4 Glock 9mm springs are 17#s.

I feel like I would be out of my lane commenting on what to do for Buffalo Bore products since they are another company. It just does not seem appropriate for me to do so. I would refer to their website or call them. No doubt they will offer good advice.

I can say that for my own heavy hard cast 9mm load, it is designed to function with a fresh stock RSA, but when I intend to shoot a significant amount of them, I swap out the guide rod and put in a heavier, 20# spring. Can't hurt.

This last weekend I was carrying my heavy hardcast 9mm loads in my G19. I was up at my cabin with little minions and it is an area with plenty of predators. Wolves lions and bears. I have had more than one encounter with a lion in the area.





[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

It is a good load for such an activity.


THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.

The Tikka T3 in .308 Winchester is the Glock 19 of the rifle world.

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That’s a great pic!

Appreciate the reply and avoiding common another’s ammunition. I also appreciate your perspective if I were able to use what you manufacture.


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Originally Posted by Mackay_Sagebrush
While doing load development for heavy .40 loads I use a Gen 3 G22 and use a stock recoil spring guide road assembly. That said, beyond that, I run a heavier spring on a guide Wolff guide rod as it prevents the gun from unlocking early and reduces the recoil a bit making the gun shoot a bit smoother. A 20# (and heavier) as shown here is a good one and I use it in 10mm and warm .45 acp loads as well.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

These 170 grain polymer coated SWCs at 1200 FPS work fine with a fresh RSA (recoil spring assembly) in Gen 3 and newer guns, but it never hurts to put a heavier spring in and have a few on hand, and swap them out on a semi regular basis. Springs are very cheap insurance as compared to having bad things happen such as what happened to DennisInAZ.

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"when I intend to shoot a significant amount of them, I swap out the guide rod and put in a heavier, 20# spring. "

A direct link to what to order would be much appreciated


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Good to know I'm not the only one without a firm grasp on the finer points of Glock guide rods and springs wink

I just got a Timney trigger installed on a 3 rd Gen Model 23 that has mostly just sat in the safe for years. I hated the "staple gun" feeling trigger and never shot it much. I had been thinking about using it just around the property with a 3 pound trigger but after some more trigger time it might make it into the concealed carry rotation. It sure is nice being able to shoot it well now.

https://timneytriggers.com/glock/


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I was talking this over with an industry friend and when I do offer up the heavy .40 loads I may just do a package deal for 3rd Gen Glock owners and offer up the ammo, guide rod and spring all in one package. That way guys will get what they need right from the start. Plus save money on shipping costs.




https://www.gunsprings.com/ (Wolff gun springs)
has all the stuff guys need. Just go find your model gun and appropriate spring weight.


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Thank you. I've had a Dillion 550 tool head set up for .40 for probably 15 years now today was the first time I used it. I have a pretty good stash of small pistol primes so it's a good time to branch out.


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More on the topic of press maintenance and preventing accidents;

I was due to do some routine maintenance, so I intentionally ran an overly lubed case through the powder station multiple times after I was done loading, just so the powder funnel would collect up powder on it if it was not dirty enough to do so.

I figured it would be a good visual, as most people (like me) can learn, and retain better if there is a picture to go along with something that they have read.


This is the powder funnel from a Dillon 550 I intentionally got gummed up with powder to illustrate what can happen w/o proper maintenance:


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Though this one is minor, and may or may not affect charge weights, eventually enough powder would attach itself to the powder shown clumped up, and it definitely would. That is what you are trying to avoid.


That is why I am OCD about press maintenance and having clean equipment.

It only takes a few minutes to do. Like anything semi complicated, the first few times you do it, it takes longer to accomplish, but the more you do it, the faster you get and before long you can pop off the top end of your powder station, clean your funnel, reassemble and be back in action in a matter of just minutes.


THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.

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I discovered vertical striations had developed on the power funnel for .45 ACP. I guess dirty cases at some point caused that... It was really causing a bunch of resistance when lowering the handle. A friend suggested using a kitchen Scotch Bright pad to polish it. I had no idea they were abrasive enough to work metal but it did the trick in no time.


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The green ones for pots/pans are pretty aggressive. Don’t use them on your windshield to clean off bugs.


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I'll make a note not to do that....

Speaking of maintaining stuff I'm generally not very good at it... anything that involves moving parts generally give me heartburn trying to figure out why the parts don't move like they were designed to.

I bought this Dillion 550 in 1990 IIRC. Bought a bunch of tool heads and filled them all up with plans to shoot way more. The press seemed like it was a car that is out of alinement though. The settings seemed to change the primer feed system never ran smooth. I called Dillion a few times and they would send out parts for free but I just never seemed to get the bugs worked out so it mostly gathered dust while I ran a single stage press again.

Then the pandemic hit and I had time and components on hand. I called Dillion back and got a return authorization. They upgraded it at no charge to the version with a grease fitting and sent it back running fine. No note explaining the causes of my grief but it runs now.

I wish I'd done that a long time ago but if I had I'd probably not have this size supply of components to play with. I'm working on sorting stuff out but so far I'm not finding 500 or so pounds of old wheel weight ingots I melted down close to 30 years ago.


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Originally Posted by shootem
Is the 2 pin block compatible with a gen 2 frame or would that upgrade require going to a gen 3 complete lower with the gen 2 barrel & slide assembly?

Also we have another G22 Gen 2 that is giving ejection problems. This pistol has been shot little, mostly because of being prone to malfunction but also because it’s just not been needed. But it apparently needs to go back to Smyrna. Since day 1 it has failed to extract on probably 40 to 50% of rounds fired. And I’m talking 4 different brands of factory loads in 180, 170, and 155 gr jacketed. Also with 165 and 150 gr handloads. It appears the extractor is jumping the rim because the round picked up from the magazine is found nose to primer with the fired case. The extractor itself appears good and spring tension on it is strong. Baffles me. And the worst rounds of all are Nosler 150 with 7.8 and 8.0 gr PP. Mostly 7.8 because the smileys go away there. Pistol jams on probably 80% of those. Could the block issue possibly cause early contact knocking the case from the extractor?

Shootem

I missed your post, and just now saw this.

The Gen 2 guns were single pin locking blocks. Some of the early Gen 3s were as well until the issues were discovered by myself and another armorer who if I recall right was working for the Illinois state Police. I was not actually aware of his work and he was not aware of mine at the time as I was dealing directly with my regional Glock rep.

Glock had 2 major reps at the time. One for the western U.S., and one for the eastern half. I was dealing with the western rep. Super nice guy btw. They had to have known there was an issue maybe shortly beforehand, as the redesign happened fairly quick and the re-issue for all of our .40 caliber guns for my agency went fairly smoothly. I don't have any proof, only my personal thoughts, but I think they really wanted to keep the lid on the issue as there were a lot of 1 pin locking block .40s in circulation with LE agencies, and they did not want a major agency like mine putting out any bulletins. This is pure speculation on my part. The fact is that they were very quick to redesign the guns with a new 2 pin locking block and not charge us for the new guns. It was kept quiet. Simply considered good customer service as far as they were concerned, and they were extremely tight lipped. Not a single word was ever mentioned that there was ever a problem. Then guns were simply replaced with brand new ones. From a corporate standpoint, I understand that they were protecting themselves. The head of my agency was happy. I discovered the problem and resolved the problem and did not cost the agency or the taxpayers anything so the pressure was off me (which was not insignificant).

It should be noted that the issue was with .40s, not 9mms. A 1 pin locking block 9mm Glock such as the old Gen 1 and Gen 2 9mms will run and run and run, with zero issue. But when they redesigned the frame, it made sense to simply standardize on 2 pin blocks.

To answer your question, no a 2 pin locking block is not compatible with a Gen 2 Glock. It cannot be retrofitted. You may be able to buy a barrel with tighter tolerances but there is nothing you can do about the locking block situation, and I would NEVER advise to run hot loads out of a Gen 2 .40 Glock.

As far as the ejector goes, that requires the whole factory trigger housing to be replaced as the ejector is part of the unit. You can look online and see what the latest specs or recommendations are for a G22 and a Gen 2 gun.

Personally I would trade it in on one of the Gen 5s that are now available. Nothing but good things have been said about them.

Hope this helps.


THE CHAIR IS AGAINST THE WALL.

The Tikka T3 in .308 Winchester is the Glock 19 of the rifle world.

The website is up and running!

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