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I just started load development for a new to me 336 in 35 and it’s grouping a bit odd.
I had some 200FTX loaded up for a different rifle and got it on paper with those. Pretty sure it’s 37-38gr H4895 but I’d have to look to make sure. Anyway, it strung that load vertically about 2.75” with 2 nearly touching. I then tried some 200gr hornady RN and BLC 2 at 37&38gr. Brass is new and all trimmed to length. Neck sized only and CCI BR primers. Both BLC2 loads did the exact same thing. Two nearly touching then one thrown high or low. I’ve only shot 4-5 groups with it so far but all the groups had the same “pattern”. The rifle has an old vari x 2 1-4.
Any ideas on the flyers?
If it would not throw one out every time it would be a legit 1” rifle!
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Mine likes to have the 3 screws that hold the magazine tube, and parts, to the barrel a bit loose-ish.
Whatever you said...everyone knows you are a lying jerk. That's a bold assertion. Point out where you think I lied. Well?
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My guess is forearm pressure is causing the vertical stringing
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I probably shouldn't even comment, since I have never owned a 336, but watching some died in the wool levergun guys, I notice that they tend to bench the rifle with the front bag located at the front of the frame rather than out on the forearm. Might be worth a try.
Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Thank you for your replies.
If it is forearm pressure, how would I go about fixing that.
I’ve not messed with lever actions much.
Thx. Ben
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I hold my 336 35 Rem JM with my left hand on the forearm, not the bags.
I have an aperture rear sight and factory front. It shoots pretty good with this load:
35 Rem, Marlin 336, 200 RN Hornady, 9 ½, 34 grains RE7, 1.77 MOA (one inch group at 50 meters)
My guess I could do better with a scope on it. But unless my eyes go really bad that won't happen.
I prefer classic. Semper Fi I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Check your front barrel band. It was so tight on my 1955 model 336, you'd have sworn the guys at the factory heated it before pecking it into place. I had a little stringing after 5-6 shots until I opened it up to a slide-on fit. Groups have rounded up quite nicely. My rifle like the Sierra 200 grain Pro Hunter. powered to 2150 fps by H4895, best of all. Here's three of them on the 200 yard plate in a group fired while perfecting zero. Please excuse photobomb by Dixie the yeller lab. https://www.thesixgunjournal.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/20210922_180723.jpg
Direct Impingement is the Fart Joke of military rifle operating systems. ⓒ
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Sounds like it might be double grouping to me. If so you've got something loose/shifting. A couple four shot groups would tell the tale.
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I hold my 336 35 Rem JM with my left hand on the forearm, not the bags.
I have an aperture rear sight and factory front. It shoots pretty good with this load:
35 Rem, Marlin 336, 200 RN Hornady, 9 ½, 34 grains RE7, 1.77 MOA (one inch group at 50 meters)
My guess I could do better with a scope on it. But unless my eyes go really bad that won't happen. I'm a believer in your technique too, Bugger. I develop loads off the bags, initial sight in off the bags, but the final confirmation just before hunting with a sporting weight rifle, hold the rifle in the hands. Another thing I've noticed, when the cartridge being used is low velocity and long barrel dwell time for the bullet, the more the hands on technique pays off. I shoot a lot of .45 Govt, .44-77, .38-55, .32-40, and .310 Greener, all at cast bullet velocities...best repeatable results with carry weight rifles are almost without exception hands on. Heavy target weight rifles do better off the bags. But I suppose we all have different techniques that affect what works and what doesn't.
Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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I got 1" groups Hornady 200g tipped 40-41g of Lever powder
I am right handed, and I hold down the forearm with my left hand, pull straight back, and slightly down. Benchrest is just in front of the receiver. Pulling down hard on the forearm gives all kinds of erratic groups. Just letting the rifle sit on the sand bag, then squeezing the rear bag is as helter skelter as it gets.
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ML McPherson wrote a couple books that touched on accurizing lever guns. They are a good read and worth the time. I don't know if there are any of these in articles online but you can look. Bedding the buttstock is straight forward. The fore end can be a little tricky. Lots of stuff hanging off the barrel vibrating with every shot. Some folks have luck using RTV between the wood and the barrel. I typically have better luck with my hand between the stock and front rest as well.
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I've always shot mine for groups using a rear sandbag and a pedestal front rest with small bag. As the forend is so slim, I generally fold a towel and place it over the front rest, which lets the forend fit the rest better. I also put my left hand on the forend when shooting. It makes round groups, more often than not. Pretty close to an MOA rifle with the 200 FTX factory loads and a 2-7x33 scope. I've seen a hard front bag/rest and inconsistent forend hold make several guns string vertically, with some being really accurate when actually held more like a field-shooting scenario. Some guns just don't like a rear-bag squeeze with the left hand and a free-recoiling forend, so I've tried to get away from that method with hunting rifles.
Now with even more aplomb
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Hold it firm in your hands and try to put 3 shots 1/2" high on a bottle cap at 50 yds.
Will it do that? Or come close?
If it will, all game inside 200yds. is dead meat and you can stop fiddling with it.
And the first sentence is from Whitetail hunter Joe Kelley. I took his advice long ago.
Last edited by JD45; 11/10/22.
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Shoot it as you would be hunting... hand on the forearm. They are notorious for impact changes due to forearm pressure. Likewise, barrel band screws. I put Lok-tite on the screws and then leave them a bit loose. Do a search for Paco Kelly's article on accurazing the levergun.
Last edited by WStrayer; 11/11/22.
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I probably shouldn't even comment, since I have never owned a 336, but watching some died in the wool levergun guys, I notice that they tend to bench the rifle with the front bag located at the front of the frame rather than out on the forearm. Might be worth a try. Yep. And always thought practices like that were retarded. Might as well shoot another gun and lie about it as shoot a gun in such an impractical way. WGAS how a gun CAN shoot if....when you aren't likely to ever use it that way. Sure I've never shot an animal from a bench. But I do bench shoot similar to how the gun would be used.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
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My Marlin lever guns always string vertically when the barrel and receiver start heating up. I always sight mine in for deer season with a cold barrel for first shot, hunting accuracy. If it's cold outside, I just lay the rifle down with the breech open for a while between shots. It's the nature of the beasts.
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Just me- if it's a hunting gun and it puts the first cold bore shot in the bullseye, call it a success and load up some ammo I've killed as many animals with a single shot rifle and muzzleloaders and arrows as I have with a second or third shot . If you need follow up hunting shots get a semi automatic of your choice
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Loosen the forend band enough so the forend has just a bit of play back and forth. The screw goes through a groove on the bottom of the barrel which is usually a bit wider than the screw. If it is tighten up enough to hold the forend tight against the receiver there will be vertical stringing. If you tighten up the front band in a way as to not have pressure against the receiver your moving the the right direction. Some rifles shoot better with three or less rounds in the magazine.
Dog I rescued in January
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are you letting the barrel cool
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Just think, years back you would have to hang out in bars to get all this good free advise. lol
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