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Will glysophate kill a large white crepe myrtle tree if applied after the tree is cut to stump?

What other chemical options are available? I cannot burn it or grind it because it was planted too close to the house.

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It will.

But it'll work better if you mix it with some diesel.

Then cover the stump up with a bucket or something.

The sooner you treat the stump after cutting the better. Fresh cut will carry more herbicide to the roots.


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It probably would kill it at that spot but I think they can spread from root runners. I am seeing a lot of sprouts around some of mine. Either it is that or seed sprouts. Not 100% sure. I would just spray the sprouts too if you get them.

Last edited by GAGoober; 09/23/22.
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I've had good luck with anything containing Triclopyr. The last one I used was this stuff from Home Depot. It worked well on shoots coming from some hybrid poplars I'd taken out.
This photo is a diluted ready to use version. They also carry a concentrate which is the one you want. Paint it on full strength.

[Linked Image from m.media-amazon.com]


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It will if you use at least 41% glyphosate and apply undiluted to a freshly cut stump that has been cut close to the ground. I've killed all sorts of fence row saplings, privet hedge, and bradford pear using that method. I even killed the main tuber of a kudzu patch once I found it. I use the store brand from Tractor Supply, but other generic glyphosate should work as long as it's at least 41%. No additives needed. It will even work when trees have lost their leaves and you might think the roots are inactive, but they're not. Might not work when it's really cold or the ground is frozen, but that doesn't happen very often in TN.


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Tordon RTU is what you want. Apply to the stump right after you cut it. If it's been cut awhile rough up the outer rim of the stump before applying.

Last edited by JLWilson; 09/23/22.

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Originally Posted by CBB15
What other chemical options are available?

Tordon

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You may kill the stump, but you will fight suckers coming up 20ft out in the yard from it for years to come, that being said, if in grass, simply mow over them...but you will continue to fight them in flower beds.

I feel your pain, people plant them too close to houses not realizing how big they can get.

Last edited by killerv; 09/23/22.
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Originally Posted by killerv
You may kill the stump, but you will fight suckers coming up 20ft out in the yard from it for years to come, that being said, if in grass, simply mow over them...but you will continue to fight them in flower beds.

I feel your pain, people plant them too close to houses not realizing how big they can get.
The Triclopyr I mentioned deals with those. Mix a little in a pan 50-50 with water, then use a $1 chipping brush to slap it on the leaves. They'll wilt within a day and won't come back.
Those roots can be a real pain. I took out some hybrid poplars 2 years ago and they're still coming back way away from where the stumps were. Keep at it. The roots will eventually starve out if you can keep the leaves killed off so it doesn't get any nutrition.


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Mix diesel with it, kills juniper and that wild plum crap at the deer lease, ought to kill a crepe myrtle easy.

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Another vote for Tordon
Gonna use some today.

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What will work on a Bougainvillea, without killing the tree that grew up through the bush?


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Originally Posted by CBB15
Will glysophate kill a large white crepe myrtle tree if applied after the tree is cut to stump?

What other chemical options are available? I cannot burn it or grind it because it was planted too close to the house.

Yes...

Apply stronger than normal.

In fact... do this on all cut trees and the stump will rot 50% faster as well.


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Cross hatch the hell out of the flat and make a bowl in the heart wood about 2 or 3" below the bottom of the cross hatch with a chain saw.
Then let that mofoing roof ball have a drink of whatever you use for 2 or 3 days running.

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Cut the tree, drill several 1/2" or bigger holes in the stump and use any of the above.


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Fall is a great time to hit it would gly-phos

As all business is returning to the roots for winter shutdown, daub that fresh cut stumping with 41% el cheapo generic glyphosphate.







I’m essentially saying what 91 other posters are saying. I’ll pretending I’m a doofus that doesn’t read all of the other replies before spouting off

…but to note, we use hack and squirt to kill medium sized trees with a similar method. Almost like girdling a tree

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[quote=arky65]Cut the tree, drill several 1/2" or bigger holes in the stump and use any of the above.[/


This… drill holes in stump and fill with juice, watch die.

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glysophate causes cancer. It's called the farmer's disease.

I would grind down as far as you can, then use 45% Pure Vinegar - Concentrated Industrial Grade. At least 2 gallons.

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Originally Posted by CanadianLefty
glysophate causes cancer. It's called the farmer's disease.

I would grind down as far as you can, then use 45% Pure Vinegar - Concentrated Industrial Grade. At least 2 gallons.

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Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

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Originally Posted by CanadianLefty
glysophate causes cancer. It's called the farmer's disease.

I would grind down as far as you can, then use 45% Pure Vinegar - Concentrated Industrial Grade. At least 2 gallons.

Haha


I love those commercials….

“Possibly linked to cancer”

They can’t prove it, but pay up sucka…


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