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Originally Posted by Wrapids
Originally Posted by WVTILLIDIE
Hey guys, I have a Remington Model 7 in 300WSM. I've had a devil of a time getting a scope that will hold zero on this thing. It does have a good wallup, so I'm assuming that's the culprit. I had a 2.5-10 Nikon Monarch on it when I first bought it, it seemed to do well, but like a fool, I removed it and went with a 6-24 Monarch. It will not hold zero for anything. Switched it over to a 22-250 and it's golden. So I'm back on the hunt for a scope in the 500-800 range that will withstand the jolt from this rifle. Hoping for some insight from this group. Thanks!!
And you gotta shoot from 800 yards bubba? Pardon me, but get closer, no need for a 6-24 on any big game rifle.

It funny back in the early 70's a 2-7 power scope was what most had on a rifle....in the 80's it changed to 3-9....now 4-12 or larger....must be animals are getting farther away to get a shot at them.....

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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Nightforce SHV 3–10 X 42, SWFA 6X or 3X9, if you can find one, or a Trijicon AccuPoint or credo.


add tract, Maven, Zeiss Trijicon 10mile


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Sincere question...

WHY would the scope rings or bases be the reason for a scope to not hold zero on "heavy recoiling rifles"? Many responding to this thread refer to this, but none explain why.

What is the association?

What style of scope/base is recommended? What design feature makes it "better" for a scope to hold zero?


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Any half ways decent scope should have no problem holding up in the OP's application.

For truly heavy-recoiling rifles, stick with a scope of decent quality that is lightweight, so as to keep Newton's 1st Law in check. By all means, buy the best quality glass that's in your budget. But, $3k scopes aren't necessary.

I scoped an 8 pound .375 Weatherby with a $169 Weaver V10 2-10x38 (11 ounces) 16 years ago. It's in lapped Leupold rings and bedded DD's, lapped with 8-42 screws. Hasn't moved yet.


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Originally Posted by buttstock
Sincere question...

WHY would the scope rings or bases be the reason for a scope to not hold zero on "heavy recoiling rifles"? Many responding to this thread refer to this, but none explain why.

What is the association?

What style of scope/base is recommended? What design feature makes it "better" for a scope to hold zero?

Binding of the tube itself due to the rings/bases being a bit differently machined from one to the other is generally the culprit of killing scopes on heavy recoiling rifles. That’s one reason Burris signature rings use the the insert in them because it takes out the lapping process and doesn’t allow the rings to bind the tube. Some even go to the extent of using a bit of bedding compound on bases so everything is is in complete contact to take up the machining tolerances of receivers from factory. All this takes out variables that can cause loss of zero.

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Originally Posted by afisher
Originally Posted by buttstock
Sincere question...

WHY would the scope rings or bases be the reason for a scope to not hold zero on "heavy recoiling rifles"? Many responding to this thread refer to this, but none explain why.

What is the association?

What style of scope/base is recommended? What design feature makes it "better" for a scope to hold zero?

Binding of the tube itself due to the rings/bases being a bit differently machined from one to the other is generally the culprit of killing scopes on heavy recoiling rifles. That’s one reason Burris signature rings use the the insert in them because it takes out the lapping process and doesn’t allow the rings to bind the tube. .....


I guess I am slow. Why would a non-lapped scope ring (or a scope ring that imparts a ring mark on a scope tube) cause a scope to lose zero? I was under the impression that a scope losing zero from recoil was associated with reticle assembly springs not being strong enough to return the "reticle housing" to "zero". Why would one style of rings/bases be the reason for a scope not holding zero? "Lightweight Talleys" were suggested as being a contributing factor for losing zero. What is it about there design would cause this?

Aside from LOOSE rings and bases ( that wiggle and move, shifting bullet impact, and not holding "zero") what is the basis for scope rings or bases-being lapped or unlapped, or their design itself ( ie "light Talleys") be the reason for a scope to not hold zero? I am sincere in attempting to learn the cause and effect. None have been provided so far. What is the basis? I don't get it. Edumicate me.


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No longer made but I've had nothing but positive results using Burris positive-lock optics in hard recoil situations..

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Burris Posi's,are easily amongst the schittiest scopes ever fhuqking offered. Hint..................


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Originally Posted by Fotis
Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Nightforce SHV 3–10 X 42, SWFA 6X or 3X9, if you can find one, or a Trijicon AccuPoint or credo.


add tract, Maven, Zeiss Trijicon 10mile
I mounted a Trijicon 1-4 on my bud's .416 Rem, Model 70. It worked out well. He likes it, killed a 43" buff in South Africa couple years ago.

For that application the triangle reticle works great.

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The horror from a puny 416 Remington...

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

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[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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I've always liked the looks of that one, the color, the red pad, everything about it.

And, it seems to be serving you pretty well.

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Originally Posted by ldholton
No longer made but I've had nothing but positive results using Burris positive-lock optics in hard recoil situations..

Not for me. In fact, all Burris products I've owned have failed. ALL. Currently have a Fastfire III that is a replacement, and it works. But who knows for how long.


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Originally Posted by Fireball2
Originally Posted by ldholton
No longer made but I've had nothing but positive results using Burris positive-lock optics in hard recoil situations..

Not for me. In fact, all Burris products I've owned have failed. ALL. Currently have a Fastfire III that is a replacement, and it works. But who knows for how long.
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Originally Posted by Fireball2
Originally Posted by ldholton
No longer made but I've had nothing but positive results using Burris positive-lock optics in hard recoil situations..

Not for me. In fact, all Burris products I've owned have failed. ALL. Currently have a Fastfire III that is a replacement, and it works. But who knows for how long.
Not so long ago you were just bragging about a Burris Verosity model or something like that how great it was....

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Originally Posted by ldholton
Originally Posted by Fireball2
Originally Posted by ldholton
No longer made but I've had nothing but positive results using Burris positive-lock optics in hard recoil situations..

Not for me. In fact, all Burris products I've owned have failed. ALL. Currently have a Fastfire III that is a replacement, and it works. But who knows for how long.
Not so long ago you were just bragging about a Burris Verosity model or something like that how great it was....

It worked and had nice features, until it didn't. Don't blame me, I didn't build it.


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Originally Posted by buttstock
Originally Posted by afisher
Originally Posted by buttstock
Sincere question...

WHY would the scope rings or bases be the reason for a scope to not hold zero on "heavy recoiling rifles"? Many responding to this thread refer to this, but none explain why.

What is the association?

What style of scope/base is recommended? What design feature makes it "better" for a scope to hold zero?

Binding of the tube itself due to the rings/bases being a bit differently machined from one to the other is generally the culprit of killing scopes on heavy recoiling rifles. That’s one reason Burris signature rings use the the insert in them because it takes out the lapping process and doesn’t allow the rings to bind the tube. .....


I guess I am slow. Why would a non-lapped scope ring (or a scope ring that imparts a ring mark on a scope tube) cause a scope to lose zero? I was under the impression that a scope losing zero from recoil was associated with reticle assembly springs not being strong enough to return the "reticle housing" to "zero". Why would one style of rings/bases be the reason for a scope not holding zero? "Lightweight Talleys" were suggested as being a contributing factor for losing zero. What is it about there design would cause this?

Aside from LOOSE rings and bases ( that wiggle and move, shifting bullet impact, and not holding "zero") what is the basis for scope rings or bases-being lapped or unlapped, or their design itself ( ie "light Talleys") be the reason for a scope to not hold zero? I am sincere in attempting to learn the cause and effect. None have been provided so far. What is the basis? I don't get it. Edumicate me.

2) Why is a lapping alignment needed?
A gun is an industrial product. Scope rings, scope bases, and scopes are industrial products. Industrial products have manufacturing tolerances. Manufacturing tolerances are the tolerances that allow for a certain degree of dimensional error in the manufacture of individual parts. This ensures that the quality of each product is consistent. If it is a single machine, no problem will occur as long as it is within the tolerances. However, when a scope is mounted, a mounting base is attached to the gun, a scope ring is attached to it, and the scope is fastened to it. Multiple industrial products made in pieces are stacked on top of each other to hold the scope in place. While a single product will stay within tolerances and not cause problems, multiple products stacked on top of each other can add up to manufacturing tolerances and, in rare cases, exceed tolerances. In extreme cases, the height of the front scope ring may be different from that of the rear scope ring. If the scope is placed there and tightened and secured, the scope body will be distorted. If the body of the scope, which is an optical instrument, is distorted, the optical axis will be out of alignment. This is what we mean by the possibility of damaging the scope. Tightening the scope will apply excessive force, which will also scratch the body.

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