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A reamer that tapers from 1" to 26mm/1.0236". The reamer has straight flutes like a chamber reamer. I'm going to convert Redfield turn-in steel rings from 1" to 26mm so that I can install some old B. Nickel scopes on some old Husqvarnas.

I'll put the rings in a vise on the table, insure that they are level, properly supported, accurately centered, add a little Do-Drill, and then remove 0.0236" of material. When I'm done, I'll mount them, true them up, and lap them to remove any burrs. Seems pretty straight forward, but maybe I'm missing something.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
A reamer that tapers from 1" to 26mm/1.0236". The reamer has straight flutes like a chamber reamer. I'm going to convert Redfield turn-in steel rings from 1" to 26mm so that I can install some old B. Nickel scopes on some old Husqvarnas.

I'll put the rings in a vise on the table, insure that they are level, properly supported, accurately centered, add a little Do-Drill, and then remove 0.0236" of material. When I'm done, I'll mount them, true them up, and lap them to remove any burrs. Seems pretty straight forward, but maybe I'm missing something.

Good luck

You're gonna love that double interrupted cut.


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King pin reamer.


Originally Posted by 16penny
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Originally Posted by kingston
King pin reamer.


If hand reaming was my only choice then I'd agree


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Hence the suggestion to bed the rings after to make sure everything is round and straight. -Al


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Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by 260Remguy
A reamer that tapers from 1" to 26mm/1.0236". The reamer has straight flutes like a chamber reamer. I'm going to convert Redfield turn-in steel rings from 1" to 26mm so that I can install some old B. Nickel scopes on some old Husqvarnas.

I'll put the rings in a vise on the table, insure that they are level, properly supported, accurately centered, add a little Do-Drill, and then remove 0.0236" of material. When I'm done, I'll mount them, true them up, and lap them to remove any burrs. Seems pretty straight forward, but maybe I'm missing something.

Good luck

You're gonna love that double interrupted cut.

Since the inside of rings form a circle and come together without any gap, where will the interruption come from?

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Al, I don't know what you mean by bedding the rings. It is a phrase that is unfamiliar to me.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by 260Remguy
A reamer that tapers from 1" to 26mm/1.0236". The reamer has straight flutes like a chamber reamer. I'm going to convert Redfield turn-in steel rings from 1" to 26mm so that I can install some old B. Nickel scopes on some old Husqvarnas.

I'll put the rings in a vise on the table, insure that they are level, properly supported, accurately centered, add a little Do-Drill, and then remove 0.0236" of material. When I'm done, I'll mount them, true them up, and lap them to remove any burrs. Seems pretty straight forward, but maybe I'm missing something.

Good luck

You're gonna love that double interrupted cut.

Since the inside of rings form a circle and come together without any gap, where will the interruption come from?


With no gap it seems like the rings would not form a circle. When they're clamped onto a round scope there is a gap on both sides.

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They make 26mm shims for 30mm rings. I used them with my Docter 6X for the last two years

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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Originally Posted by tedthorn
Originally Posted by 260Remguy
A reamer that tapers from 1" to 26mm/1.0236". The reamer has straight flutes like a chamber reamer. I'm going to convert Redfield turn-in steel rings from 1" to 26mm so that I can install some old B. Nickel scopes on some old Husqvarnas.

I'll put the rings in a vise on the table, insure that they are level, properly supported, accurately centered, add a little Do-Drill, and then remove 0.0236" of material. When I'm done, I'll mount them, true them up, and lap them to remove any burrs. Seems pretty straight forward, but maybe I'm missing something.

Good luck

You're gonna love that double interrupted cut.

Since the inside of rings form a circle and come together without any gap, where will the interruption come from?


With no gap it seems like the rings would not form a circle. When they're clamped onto a round scope there is a gap on both sides.

When you lap turn-in rings they are round, can't see how this is significantly different. But if it is, I'll be out a little money, a little time, and one or two set of used Redfield turn-in rings.

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Originally Posted by moosemike
They make 26mm shims for 30mm rings. I used them with my Docter 6X for the last two years

Yes, but I don't care for the aesthetics of shimmed 30mm rings.

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I'm completely lost in how you plan on doing this with any type of precision whatsoever but it ain't my monkey nor my circus


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After you ream and lap, bed the tube to the rings. The epoxy fills the gaps and everything come out round and straight with maximum contact area between the scope tube and rings. It's the same concept as bedding an action to a stock. -Al

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Originally Posted by tedthorn
I'm completely lost in how you plan on doing this with any type of precision whatsoever but it ain't my monkey nor my circus

With an old Bridgeport mill.

I'm not a machinist, just a guy with a lathe, a mill, and time on my hands.

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I've never known anyone to do that. I have seen rings bedded with rubber cement, but not with actual bedding compound. Going the extra mile.

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Originally Posted by Dave_Spn
Originally Posted by Seafire
Couldn't you just wrap some electrical tape around the scope where it will have contact with the rings?

I've done it and it worked fine....and was very secure...

How does wrapping tape around a scope that is too big for 1 inch rings going to help?

well Dave,

you win the morning "being awake award"... I tossed that out there just to see if anyone was paying attention....

actually the post was a little bait for Schtick.. guess he missed it...

you and Muskeg Man were the only two who caught it.... but I had to laugh at his comment " and some people trust Seafire's Load Data"

I guess he's one of the ones that never tried any of them, because he's smart enough to know they won't work, without having any experience with it.
but then being from Alaska, like Schtick.. they're smart up there than the rest of the country....


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Al Nyhus, it is posts like yours that I come to the 24 Hour Campfire for and what I was hoping for when I started coming here. It is a shame some of the other knowledgeable folks here can't go the extra mile like you do.

You are very much appreciated.

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Originally Posted by FSJeeper
Al Nyhus, it is posts like yours that I come to the 24 Hour Campfire for and what I was hoping for when I started coming here. It is a shame some of the other knowledgeable folks here can't go the extra mile like you do.

You are very much appreciated.

FSJeeper...thanks. smile

Most people have something of value to contribute....I've certainly picked up some good tips and ideas here. There's not a lot of 'magic' involved in most of this stuff. Good common sense and applying basic mechanics gets you 90% of the way there.

Good shootin' and be well. smile -Al


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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Originally Posted by moosemike
They make 26mm shims for 30mm rings. I used them with my Docter 6X for the last two years

Yes, but I don't care for the aesthetics of shimmed 30mm rings.

I can understand that. I don't either

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Originally Posted by moosemike
Originally Posted by 260Remguy
Originally Posted by moosemike
They make 26mm shims for 30mm rings. I used them with my Docter 6X for the last two years

Yes, but I don't care for the aesthetics of shimmed 30mm rings.

I can understand that. I don't either

You can add me to that list, that's why my 6x Docter is still in the box. I wanted a seek looking scope for my CZ455 but ended up buying a rail.


I'm here to increase my social credit score and rub elbows with some of the highest rollers on the internet.
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