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Yeah, the bottom plastic changes things for tightening the action up. I'm glad there's options for the mini, I didn't realize they used it on the other actions. You could use guide screws and bed the action/lug alone or neutral full length bed right from the start. I've been considering what to do with the mini and I'm leaning towards full length from the start.

Would a floor plate from a standard Howa/vanguard not work? I don’t know what type of metal they are but the ones I have seem stout. I don’t know how easy they are to source though.

You should consider getting one of these: https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/cabelas-rifle-recoil-pad
I use one and can shoot my .340 Wby for an hour with no soreness or bruising of the shoulder. It's still loud and pushes on the shoulder, but there is no pain or bruising.

Naw, I'm just a puss! I spend most my time shooting rimfire and .223 with some 6mm Creedmoor and .300 BO mixed in. I'll be alright after I spend some more range time with it. I have a PAST pad already.


Think Model 7 and Model 700, the SL is shorter in length and smaller in diameter. The SL action screw spacing is 7" vs 7.25" for the 1500 SA, and the mag well is about 0.025" narrower at the widest point in the SL stock. I imagine I'd have to pay more to have bottom metal built than I did for the whole rifle.

Nice rifle

Ouch. I assumed the SA 1500 was the footprint/design on the action used. Howa does some neat things but bottom plastic is heavy on the suckage.

When do we start talking about Tikkas?





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What does Tikka offer at 4lb 11oz ? Maybe the T1X in 22lr ?

I knew it wasn't, I also knew there might be some issues. I'm keeping optimistic that this rifle will work for my needs.

I contacted LSI and they recommended 30-35 in-lbs on the action screws. They also recommend I shoot Hornady ammunition loaded with either 155 grain ELDM or BTHP bullets to test accuracy.

Nice! memtb

Shot 10 rounds this morning, it shot just okay again. Scope could be part of the problem, it didn't give a warm and fuzzy feeling. I didn't use my suppressor either, as I probably wont attach it until I get the rifle figured out.

Shots 1-6, fed from magazine let barrel cool 10 minutes between 3 shot groups. POA center of large diamond. Groups measured with Range Buddy app.

Group size 2.04", Group Area 1.35" Wide 2.01" High, Mean Radius 0.84", and POI 2.65" Left 2.54" Low.

Adjusted scope 6/10 mil up and same adjustment right, shot 7-10 same POA as shots 1-6. Shots 7-9 from magazine and single loaded shot 10 from the top with no cooling time.

Group size 2.27" Group Area 0.82" wide 2.24" High, Mean Radius 0.81", POI 2.65" Left 0.28" Low.

All shots at 16X as it bracketed the target the best at 100 yards. I'm not happy the scope didnt obey inputs. All shots with hand resting on top of scope, and not having my thumb wrapped around grip.

Not saying I am right, but I don't like putting hands over the tops of my rifle scope with lightweight rifles (or any rifle actually), I'd rather pull them into the pocket of my shoulder firm and control the pistol grip rather than gingerly holding them. Your results sound about like mine when I started with my 7-08 Montana. Held loosely it was a scatter gun, pulled in firm and handled like I would when hunting it decreased group size by 1/2 for me.

I often shake my head when guys say to grab the scope or any other ridiculous thing like that. The problem is they just don't know how to shoot and are basically still learning. I shoot like you do Scotty. Just shoot the damn thing and quit playing around. If you are like a monkey fu cking a foot ball off the bench, or in the prone, you for damn sure are going to fall apart when you have to make a further shot at a game animal, in field positions.

Tell me how you really feel! 😁

I'm not going to proclaim I know as much about shooting as you. However, when people like Mark Bansner tells you using your left hand over can help decrease group size from the bench is it wrong to try? I know traditional hold on the rear bag doesn't work, the one shot I took the rifle hit my hat and knocked my glasses sideways.

Mark explains and demonstrates the technique starting about 8 minutes into this video.

[video:yahoo][/video]

I swapped out scopes this morning, and I tried shooting groups three different ways with the Fed GMM.



1- Forend hold, thumb wrapped around grip. 2.63 MOA, group area 1.85" wide 2.55" high, 1.22 MOA mean radius, POI/POA 1.01 right 2.53" low.

2- Forend hold, no thumb. 2.3 MOA, group area 1.58" wide 1.82" high, 0.97 MOA mean radius, POI/POA 2.41" right .77" high.

3- Bansner Method. 1.5 MOA, group area 1.41" wide 1.38" high, .78 MOA mean radius, POI/POA 2.18" right 1.16 low.

By no means is this definitive proof of anything. I did quit wrapping my thumb around the grip years ago and saw my groups improve and more consistent hits on varmints. So I doubt I'll go back to doing that and it doesn't seem natural anymore.

I did try the suppressor again today and the rifle shot better with it. 6 rounds of Winchester Super X 150 grain wasn't anything to brag about. The Hornady AW 150 grain showed promise and I made an adjustment on the scope after the first group of AW.

I contacted LSI and got the torque specs and went from 25 in-lbs to 35 in-lbs at front action screw and 30 in-lbs on the rear. Groups were shot free recoil, off hand on the rear bag, no thumb grip. The suppressor really changes the behavior of this rifle from the bench.



Swapping for the NF in Warn Mountain Tech rings dropped the weight to 6 lbs 3 oz scoped and 7 lbs 0.8 oz suppressed. How often does switching to a Night Force save you weight?

1.5 with an non-bedded lightweight factory rifle and factory ammo is pretty good IMHO (if it's consistent). A good bedding job is only going to improve accuracy and the consistency of the accuracy. Unless it's screwed up, there's no downside to it.

I found the Bansner vid interesting. I'm a big fan of inline/no-wrap thumb grip. I'll torque if I wrap my thumb and I can see it just by dry firing.

I'm really simple on my bench method...and I make no claim to be a bench rest shooter. I use an adjustable 2 point rest with towels folded multiple times under the front and rear. On lighter rifles I pull the forend into the towel a bit but not heavily...just enough to control the rise. Grip and pulling the rifle into the shoulder like Mr. Bansner noted. I make a conscious effort to slide my cheek down the comb when setting up. I've found it helps my consistency in cheekweld and alignment.

If using the bags Mr. Bansner's using, it doesn't seem like there'd be an option to control rise aside from the top of scope method he shows.

Interesting vid. Don't like seeing swivel studs contacting the bags under recoil, particularly with a lightweight.