A handy item to have is a homemade loading block of hardwood made to hold 2-3 pre-patched/lubed balls, strung around your neck . It speeds up follow-up shot if needed.
Make it about 3/4" thick, 1.5" wide and 2.5" - 3" long (for two balls). Use a flat drill bit that is just a smidge bigger than the max diameter of your muzzle ( NOT measured across the flats, but activities the "points"). Drill it about 1/8 -3/16" deep. Then drill a hole all the way though the centet of each recessed area which will hold your pre-lubed patched ball snug ( i. e. .530" ball + ( 2x patch thickness)= ~hole diameter. If 0.018" patch, then through-hole should be a smidge smaller than 0.530"+0.036" =0.566" max diameter hole) . Too big, and pre-lubed patched balls will fall out. Too tight, you won't be able to get the patched ball in the block without distorting the ball. Bevel the "top" side of each hole to make loading the lubed, patched ball easier into the loading block.
You can buy loading blocks, but most do not have the recessed area for quick alignment. If you are using a half stock rifle you can file /cut the muzzle end of the under-rib so it is 1/8" below the muzzle. This allows you to take full advantage of the recessed area of the loading block
The recessed area allows quick alignment and positioning of the mounted patched ball over the muzzle. You can make a ball block with as many holes as you like, but 2 to 6 balls is typical. Two or three holes is good for hunting, in case one falls out (and is overall small in size). Snug fit, not tight fitting is the goal for grip/retention.
video of loading block for patched round balls