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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Thanks Sheister, what # grit would you go with I was thinking 400, but that might be too aggressive?
Once you take it off there is no going back, my goal is to get it back to looking "Refreshed" not to change any of its shape, as it fits me like a glove although it was formed (hand carved) to custom fit my father perfectly.
Thanks again! I agree with you.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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The issue with a wood block when it comes to that scratch is that it is not on a flat surfaced area, it is contoured to fit my father's cheek, so if I were to use a block the indent is hollow and the block would be above the scratch and it would not touch the scratch if you know what I mean? I was thinking of using my fingertips and going very lightly. Would you steam the scratch before sanding?
KB
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Campfire Outfitter
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Usually, the 3M Scotchbrite pads are used between coats of finish to take off the rough spots and little nibs before putting on another coat. Then wipe it down with a good tack cloth to remove all the dust particles before adding another coat of finish.
As far as that scratch , it looks like you may need to take a hard wood block about 3 inches long and wrap some sand paper around it and go after that scratch carefully , blending into the surrounding wood surface so you don't end up with a hollow spot. There is a good chance you won't get all of it out without causing a hollow spot so knowing when to stop is going to be the trick here. Unless you want to strip the whole stock and reshape in places to remove all the scratches and dents (or what we call patina) , you will probably need to live with a few scratches left after refinishing. By time you get done with steaming all the dents and dings and sanding the scratches, you will need to add finish before putting on the wax. Matching the existing finish may or may not be difficult so that will be your call once you add finish. This is one of the reasons I use Truoil or Tung oil on vintage stocks- it seems to match most finishes as well as anything and it's easy to build up the finish until I'm happy with the thickness and gloss. Sorry Bob, but I think that scratch will go away easily and would not block sand it to depth at all. I would use Formby's Furniture Refinisher on a Q-tip to wet it and keep it wet for about 10-15 minutes. Then wipe with the grain with the Formby's on a cloth. I bet it almost goes away as the finish comes together. You may well be right. All depends on how deep the scratch is and how contaminated the wood below the finish is. If it is just in the finish it will be easy to take care of as you stated, but if it is down to the wood the block sanding will at least level it off and give a good chance for finish to get into the scratch. If this stock was in my hands I would have a much better idea of how to approach these repairs...
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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Campfire Outfitter
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The issue with a wood block when it comes to that scratch is that it is not on a flat surfaced area, it is contoured to fit my father's cheek, so if I were to use a block the indent is hollow and the block would be above the scratch and it would not touch the scratch if you know what I mean? I was thinking of using my fingertips and going very lightly. Would you steam the scratch before sanding? I didn't notice the contour in the pictures. In any case, the least intrusive method is always the best way to start a repair- so as Art stated, use the Formby's repair first and see how it works out. If that doesn't take care of it to your satisfaction, move to lightly sanding with 240, then 320, but not any finer or your new finish won't have anything to gain a mechanical bond to . If you go down to the wood the finish will have a chemical bond to the wood and you shouldn't have any problems, but I still wouldn't go any finer than 320 with sandpaper.
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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OK got it Sheister, 320 it is! I got the big scratch out today, very happy about that tomorrow it's Iron and Steaming Day to try to fix the dents, then a light sanding, followed by 2 or 3 coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, then the final touch a wax job with Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. Should be done by the end of next week. Can't wait to see it beautified and rejuvenated and that monster scratch gone. Thank you for all of your advice and I wish you a great weekend 
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/27/23.
KB
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Not boiled linseed oil... it has no place in a fine finish... BLO is very low grade oil before it starts, then they add driers to catalyze the oil and inhibitors to extend the shelf life. In the end it takes too long to dry and often gets gummy instead of hard. Despite many these days look highly on gummies it is a bad thing in finish. Go to a decent art or paint store and get pure oil and a tiny bottle of hardener.
You will eliminate a huge bit of risk that way...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
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BLO is for picks and pan handles. 
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
--Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice.
--ironbender
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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BLO is for picks and pan handles. +++a lot!
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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BLO is for picks and pan handles. +++a lot! Thanks, Gents! I saw so many people saying BLO on YouTube videos I assumed it was a good choice, but they all said it dried in 24 hours vs. days with Pure Oil and think they wanted the convenience of quick and were working average stocks. I want the best, not the quickest drying. I am in no rush. Pure Linseed Oil is it! Can you recommend a brand name you trust? Why the hardliner? Can you give me a brand name of one you trust? How about this one, I like the fact that it is cold pressed, no heat involved in the extraction process. ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/qaLnqAkh.jpg) As mentioned I just want to refresh, the finish, I definitely do not want to change the shape or form at all. I already got the deep scratch out, I am going to steam the dents to try to get them out today. Do you agree with the 320 grit, or would you go higher? I used 400 grit to get the scratch out, worked like a charm. I panic when I start to see sawdust, as little as I have seen lol. Thanks Again
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/28/23.
KB
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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That's the reason Sitka deer said to acquire a tiny bottle of drier/hardener along with the oil. If you don't have a local art supply store I suppose you have to order it online. "I saw it on YouTube so it must be true" is the new "if it's published in the newspaper it must be true." In this game nothing beats hands-on empirically gained knowledge. Watch all the videos you want but at some point you gotta roll up your sleeves and learn for yourself. Like so many other things, we all have convictions about how fine to go with the sandpaper. For axe handles(  ) I'll go 150-220x, a Mossberg shotgun maybe 320x, and a fine gunstock 600x. My philosophy is to take the wood surface to the level of smoothness desired in the final finish before applying oil. When employing a barrier finish I stop at 320x. Heck, in the marine industry we stopped at 150x on exterior teak before varnishing (but blocked out with 320x between coats).
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
"Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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"I saw it on YouTube so it must be true" is the new "if it's published in the newspaper it must be true." In this game nothing beats hands-on empirically gained knowledge. Watch all the videos you want but at some point you gotta roll up your sleeves and learn for yourself. Partially guilty lol But, fortunately for me, I have you gentlemen's advice to go with! This is the only rifle I have ever done, will never do another, because my long-range rifle is a composite. Not much of a collector, I have been using this rifle for years, all I really need, except for elk, whenever I see them puppies while rifle hunting they are at longer ranges. All I am trying to achieve is to get that nasty scratch out which I have done, and to try to correct the dents through steaming, hoping it works I will know by tonight. After that I just want to take the old oil off. I put Extra Virgin Olive oil on it one night after a successful moose hunt while parting with my friend Jack Daniels lol. I am using the #400 sandpaper, I am in no rush. I think I am going to go with #600 to take off the old oil, as mentioned I am in no way interested in modifying the shape. At this point, I only wish that I had some experience on lesser rifles. The first being French walnut hand carved by a master Stockmaker make me very nervous, if you know what I mean.
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/28/23.
KB
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Another question for you gent in "The Know"? Would you steam the dents Before or After the light sanding? Thanks and have a great Saturday
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/28/23.
KB
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Resting in its dust-free hanging closet to dry out after a long day at the Steam Spa, worked on it for an hour or so, lots of smaller scratches and small dents to fix. I am super happy with the progress! All but the nasty big dent above the big scratch came out, could not be happier. Tomorrow I will work on the big dent again I figure it's 80% better than it was. Hopefully tomorrow I will get it out completely, don't think I will but it's a huge improvement. After that, light sanding to get it uniformed to the same color of the big deep scratch area, then a few coats of Organic Cold Pressed Linseed oil, with a finish of the Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax to protect the finish while hunting and to take it to Museum quality finish. I figure with the Organic, Cold Pressed Linseed Oil, I will have to wait 3 weeks for the next application, so it will be a 2 1/2 month project. ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/kutZu2Wh.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/C831MaQh.jpg) Cleaned and polished the Sterling Silver Butt Plate, looks great. Before ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/MrbCMPhh.jpg) After ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/xlXR0OPh.jpg)
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/28/23.
KB
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I am LOVING what I am seeing so far! The dents, even the 2 biggest dents are gone, because of the heavy steaming applications I did, and the scratches are gone now as well. I had to do some heavy sanding (with extreme caution and only because it was necessary) with 400 grit to get the deep scratch out. Here is a question for you boys in the know? Because I had to sand the deep scratch to get it out, no choice, the color in that area became very light, I will now have to sand the entire rifle, to get it to a uniform color before I start oiling, I would like to clean the old oil out of the checkering, so it's not darker than the stock when I am finished. How do you get the old oil out of the checkering, any suggestions? I am thinking Acetone and a toothbrush will work? There are also a few small areas where the checkering is "Muddled" and slightly compressed. Will steaming the checkering bring them back, like it got the dents out? Any assistance would be appreciated! Thanks Kindly ~
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/29/23.
KB
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Campfire Outfitter
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Getting finish out of checkering can be a challenge. About the best way I've found is to use chemical stripper and brush it out as completely as possible as soon as the stripper starts to work and is still somewhat liquid. Acetone will quite possible thin down what finish is there and cause it to seep deeper into the cut grain and darken the checkered areas. If you're at that point, might as well chemically strip the entire stock . You will be left with a fairly clean wood surface with just some finish sanding to do for finish prep.
Steaming won't bring back compressed checkering in a reliable manner and will probably soften the diamonds enough that they will break off when brushing them or other wise contacting them . Best way to deal with compressed checkering is to get a single line checkering tool and recut them carefully to match up to the rest of the checkering pattern. If you haven't done this before you can screw it up pretty quickly so be very careful or have someone who knows how to checker do it for you.
Last edited by Sheister; 10/29/23.
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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Getting finish out of checkering can be a challenge. About the best way I've found is to use chemical stripper and brush it out as completely as possible as soon as the stripper starts to work and is still somewhat liquid. Acetone will quite possible thin down what finish is there and cause it to seep deeper into the cut grain and darken the checkered areas. If you're at that point, might as well chemically strip the entire stock . You will be left with a fairly clean wood surface with just some finish sanding to do for finish prep.
Steaming won't bring back compressed checkering in a reliable manner and will probably soften the diamonds enough that they will break off when brushing them or other wise contacting them . Best way to deal with compressed checkering is to get a single line checkering tool and recut them carefully to match up to the rest of the checkering pattern. If you haven't done this before you can screw it up pretty quickly so be very careful or have someone who knows how to checker do it for you. Thanks for that info Sheister, after reading this, no way in the world will I even attempt fixing the checkering! It isn't that bad, but I am a perfectionist by nature, so I was hoping it was as simple as steaming out the dents and sanding out the scratches. A before and after steaming and sanding and the color difference between the prepped stock and the checkering area. I was thinking of lightly sanding the entire rifle to get a uniform color, except for the checkering areas, with 600 grit. I am pretty pleased with the steaming and got all of the dents out, then really big dent needed a little light sanding after steaming, but the steaming made it 95% better! Can you recommend a stripper? Here is what I am dealing with. I have already lightly sanded out the imperfections after streaming throughout the rifle, instead of lightly sanding the rest of the rifle to get the uniform color I want before oiling, based on your recommendation, that stripper is a better option to get the old oil out of the wood that does not need to be repaired? BEFORE![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/74ua3IAh.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/GRGNgwmh.jpg) AFTER![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/DZP46lHh.jpg) Checkering Loaded in oil. F'ing Jack Daniels and Olive oil!![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/WkDINSDh.jpg)
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/30/23.
KB
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Campfire Outfitter
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I just use what commercial strippers I find at Home Depot and never had a problem. Citrustrip usually works well as long as you follow directions. Be sure to remove all metal pieces- grip cap, butt plate, etc... Using stripper also reduces the chance you will round over your sharp edges sanding off the original finish- which most guys will do when sanding off finish- especially if you don't use a block around the sharp edges. Your stock has a lot of fine details that will take some careful attention to detail when final sanding to avoid losing the fine lines and sharp edges. You may need to invent some tools to deal with some of those fine lines or shaped areas, or leave them be and work very carefully around them.
Last edited by Sheister; 10/30/23.
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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I just use what commercial strippers I find at Home Depot and never had a problem. Citrustrip usually works well as long as you follow directions. Be sure to remove all metal pieces- grip cap, butt plate, etc... Using stripper also reduces the chance you will round over your sharp edges sanding off the original finish- which most guys will do when sanding off finish- especially if you don't use a block around the sharp edges. Your stock has a lot of fine details that will take some careful attention to detail when final sanding to avoid losing the fine lines and sharp edges. You may need to invent some tools to deal with some of those fine lines or shaped areas, or leave them be and work very carefully around them. I hear you loud and clear Sheister! As mentioned I used 400 grit and took special care around the edges. I bought EZ Strip this morning after reading your comment this morning. Luckily for me, there is no grip cap, it is all hand carved and rounded I am done sanding and steaming the bottom or the fore-end had several flattened areas, all fixed with steaming, super happy about that. I did a trail area with Acetone, specifically the bottom rounded end of the pistol grip, it did a pretty good job removing old oil. Appreciate your advice about not using Acetone on the checkering as it may dilute the oil and make it penetrate deeper into the wood. I will do one of the fore-end checkered grips, painting on EZ stripper and soft facecloth, if the results are good I will work on the pistol grip checkering, I may have to do it twice. Thanks again!
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/30/23.
KB
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Hey Sheister, Well here are the before and after pics, some areas of the pistol Grip would use another session, but I will wait until they are completely dry before I make the call. What do you think? I am very happy with the results, thanks for your guidance, sir! ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/1p49HrTh.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/5Wl5lnPh.jpg) ![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/vqJFYUrh.jpg)
Last edited by KillerBee; 10/30/23.
KB
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Excellent results so far. One more light application of the stripper should take it down to bare wood or very close in all areas and then you can assess the next step. If it looks good, light sanding after a couple days of drying should get it ready for finish application. If you have some scratches that it would take excessive sanding that may leave a hollow spot, don't be afraid to leave a few patina marks like that in the finish. This is , after all, an heirloom piece and all those dings and dents are memories of use and don't need an excuse or explanation to anyone...
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
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