Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Wax for walnut stocks

I use pure tung oil a lot on various projects, but I measure out a couple teaspoons full into a small container then add a couple drops of varnish. That gives a little bit of a "pop" to the finish. Sort of a dilute TruOil.

Great choice gnoahhh!

Been doing tones of research on oils, and after all the reasearch I discovered the following?

It's all-natural, non-toxic, and eco-friendly, and it doesn't yellow as much over time as common finishes like linseed oil, nitrocellulose lacquer, or varnishes like polyurethane. On the other hand, tung oil is expensive and susceptible to water rings, stains, and scratches.

Susceptible to water damage and stains (although more resistant to liquids than linseed oil) plus I will have 1 finishing coat of wax to further protect it.

Susceptible to scratches (although more durable than linseed oil)

Cost is typically higher than linseed oil.

Typically requires up to 5 coats to produce a more pleasing satin sheen.

Winner, Winner Tung Oil for Rifle Finisher for Diner hehehe.

My goal, when I am done with the final coat of Renascence Wax after 7 coats of Tung oil: I want the rifle to look PERFECT, so I will get a big "Atta Boy" from my departed father, who I am sure is looking down at me with a smile on his handsome face while I work on his beautiful P17!

Well guys, after all of my hard detailed work the 1st Oiling with a 40/50 cut of Tung Oil and Mineral Spirits. in 30 minutes I will dry it off and let it sit for the next application, heavier on the oil, thinking of putting on 8 coats, with the final coat being 100% pure Tung Oil

I was as nervous as a bed bug applying it!

What do you think?

Looks nice.

Thanks Craigster, appreciated!

Keep on rockin'! (But I'm not so sure the thinner in the oil helps with penetration into the wood. It'll soak in, sure, but it doesn't carry the oil with it. It'll help with drying though.)

Hi gnoahhh, I was watching a YouTube of a carpenter that said to cut it that way for better penetration.

here is his video:



Tomorrow I will be going 60/40 oil to Mineral Spirits.

better picture of the other side. I am soooooooooooooo happy that Cluster F of EVOO is gone from the pistol grip, now you can see the grain in the grip before it was just black.

Nasty Moose Hunting Butt Cheek Deep Scratch and Dents Repaired, and the checkering looks PERFECT, sooooooo Happy!

Lookin’ good Billy Ray. 😁

Looking good so far. Personally, I may or may not thin the second coat, but not after that at all. A few drops on a finger for each small area overlapping and rub it into the finish until the stock is completely covered. Then do it again once it feels dry- until you're satisfied with the sheen. The great thing about oil finishes is they are so easy to maintain and repair. If you get a dry spot or a small scratch, a small amount of very light sanding and some new oil and it will look like new again.

That wood looks incredible with the Tung oil on it. Definitely going to be a worthwhile project when it is finished.

Thanks Sheister, I really appreciate all of your advice on this job. I am with you, I do not think I will use any more spirits just Tung oil. I am glad I did more research on oils and went with Tung over Linseed oil.

So you would not sand it before applying the next round of oil, and how much time would you give it in between applications? A video I watched said 24 hours? And would you continue on oiling the checkering, don't want to smother it again and lose the grain.

This is the one I bought and used, I really like the color.

Can I get a sample board??
😄😉

It's a tossup between tung and linseed. Both are viable for stuff like this, close your eyes and pick one. Internet videos are rife with pros and cons of each but are all mostly based on old wive's tales told around campfires and gunshop counters over the last 100 years.*

I wouldn't go crazy applying oil to the checkering. Intermittently during the finishing protocols is ok, being sure to expunge as much in there as possible to avoid buildup. You are applying oil to the interior surfaces also?


* I've told this anecdote before but it bears repeating: A long ago friend/mentor was an Army artificer (precursor to a unit armorer) in WWII. He related that part of his stateside training was a rotation at Springfield Armory where among other things he was versed on the government's stock finishing protocols. While watching them dunk rifle stocks in big vats of hot oil he asked the guys what oil they used, linseed or tung. The reply was "whichever one the procurement officer got the best deal on". They treated the two equally. (Note also the government as well as commercial gun makers used straight oils on gunstocks not because of the superior finish but because it was cheap.)

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Klaus Hiptmeyer, the gunsmith who built this rifle. I remember drooling over the pictures of his work in Gun Digest (I think in the seventies). His wife, Heidi also did beautiful engraving if I remember correctly.

Larry

Sanding between coats is a matter of feel. If the finish is smooth after a coat it probably doesn't need sanding between coats. But if you feel the grain raised or little blemishes in the finish, a light sanding to get it smooth before the next application is a good idea. When I do Truoil I usually sand every two coats unless I'm having a real problem with the finish , then I sand every coat lightly until it builds up. Time between coats is pretty hard to determine. In some areas where humidity and temps are optimum you could probably coat every 24 hours or sooner. In other areas due to high humidity it might take a week before the oil is cured enough to accept the next coat. In any case, once you get to the end of your finish and you're happy with the end result, let it set for a month or so to fully cure before doing anything else to the finish- including rubbing it out, or fine sanding, or heavy handling like field use.

gnoahhh gave you good advice on the checkering- same as I have stated a couple times- be careful adding finish to the checkering. Once you add too much and start to smother the diamonds it is too late. If it looks sealed that is probably good enough as long as the checkering has good detail still. My rule of thumb is if the checkering is starting to look shiny like the rest of the stock I've probably put one too many coats on it, but I leave it if it doesn't look like it is filling the cuts.

I'm really liking the color of that Tung oil you are using. I haven't been a huge proponent of Tung oil mainly because most of my guns see lots of wet conditions and it isn't especially waterproof IMO. But it can sure look good when applied properly.

You've gotten some great advice on this and the other thread and surprisingly it all seems to be very close to the same from each stockmaker . It's great having a resource like this and people who will share their experience .

Hi Larry,

Interesting post. You are spot on!

Klaus Hiptmayer was internationally recognized for his stockmaking, and you are absolutely correct Heide did all of the engravings, on mine as well, unfortunately, she passed away from cancer.

My father had the stock made in 1974, when Klaus lived in Quebec, as did we. The rifle is a P17, that was purchased by BSA who then sporterized it for the hunting market. The rifle was given to my father by his friend, an older man who took him under his wing and taught him how to hunt as his father did not, when he passed away. It was handed down to me and I consider myself truly fortunate about that!

When my father was given the rifle he gave it to Klaus to customize a new stock to fit him precisely! It is a great example of Klaus's work.

This is a picture of my father in the 40s with his first moose that she killed with the same rifle.

Have a great Sunday, Sir!



Here is an example of another one of Heide's engravings, done on a Custom Browning Safari 7mm Remington Magnum, Klaus craved the stock.

Neat stuff! Thanks for sharing the back story.

I really haven't heard any bad advice on this thread. Bottom line: do what works for you. Killer Bee, keep on keeping on!!

I'm prepping a couple rifles for the season. After sighting in I leave my bores fouled for that all important first shot at a deer, and the time I normally spend cleaning bores after a range session I spend Ren Waxing the guns instead. Heck, I even Ren Wax myself before heading out! (Kidding of course. I slather myself with bacon grease -to attract bears and to attract hefty women in the dive bars where I head after a day in the woods.)

Thanks gnoahhh!

I have gotta say everyone here has been so helpful and full of good advice! I consider myself fortunate to have made friends here and that members have been so kind and helpful. 24 Hour Campfire ROCKS and so you all of you!

Thank you everyone!

It ain't always the case, but sometimes the 'Fire works!