It’s not big enough… It doesn’t need to be heavy or long but it needs room to work.
There’s no room in that can for the spaces between baffles to slow down the gasses.
See gedubs above or JB’s on the AR with the coyote. Even the smallish can with the coyote looks to be over double the internal volume of the one pictured with the 22lr.
All things being equal (design) then a larger volume will offer more suppression at the muzzle. On an AR it might increase the shooters ear numbers. Internal design can do a lot with very small cans.
This 5 inch 5 oz can on a .22 RF shooting subsonics is quieter than a springer air gun.
The same design but in Titanium for center fire on the same AR (left) from the above coyote picture.
The small can tests better at shooters ear and is half the weight (5 oz) of the Ultra 5, which is a light can.
John Burns
I have all the sources. They can't stop the signal.
I have three Kimbers, one is factory threaded for a brake and with an adapter should accept a can. Do you have to pull the barrel from the action on the others to thread them or is there another process...?
BT53 "Where do they find young men like this?" Reporter Savidge, Iraq Elk, it's what's for dinner....
It’s not big enough… It doesn’t need to be heavy or long but it needs room to work.
There’s no room in that can for the spaces between baffles to slow down the gasses.
See gedubs above or JB’s on the AR with the coyote. Even the smallish can with the coyote looks to be over double the internal volume of the one pictured with the 22lr.
All things being equal (design) then a larger volume will offer more suppression at the muzzle. On an AR it might increase the shooters ear numbers. Internal design can do a lot with very small cans.
This 5 inch 5 oz can on a .22 RF shooting subsonics is quieter than a springer air gun.
The same design but in Titanium for center fire on the same AR (left) from the above coyote picture.
The small can tests better at shooters ear and is half the weight (5 oz) of the Ultra 5, which is a light can.
It’s not big enough… It doesn’t need to be heavy or long but it needs room to work.
There’s no room in that can for the spaces between baffles to slow down the gasses.
See gedubs above or JB’s on the AR with the coyote. Even the smallish can with the coyote looks to be over double the internal volume of the one pictured with the 22lr.
All things being equal (design) then a larger volume will offer more suppression at the muzzle. On an AR it might increase the shooters ear numbers. Internal design can do a lot with very small cans.
This 5 inch 5 oz can on a .22 RF shooting subsonics is quieter than a springer air gun.
The same design but in Titanium for center fire on the same AR (left) from the above coyote picture.
The small can tests better at shooters ear and is half the weight (5 oz) of the Ultra 5, which is a light can.
Actually...it is probably the most interesting bit of posting he has done. It would be interesting to hear more about the internals, eg...are they like the old Sionics, or the perforated mesh, or an integrated modular baffle (upgraded conjoined Parker-Hale, Australian GSA).
I definitely want to get a small, lighter can. Could care less if it meets a certain threshold of sound or not as I have a few rifles that a reduction of sound/recoil would be appreciated without 7” and 11oz added to it.
I definitely want to get a small, lighter can. Could care less if it meets a certain threshold of sound or not as I have a few rifles that a reduction of sound/recoil would be appreciated without 7” and 11oz added to it.
I have three Kimbers, one is factory threaded for a brake and with an adapter should accept a can. Do you have to pull the barrel from the action on the others to thread them or is there another process...?
Yes, pulling the barrel is the best route. For me, the mistake I made with getting barrels threaded was staying with full-length barrels, like 22" and 24". I'm not using anything over 20" with suppressed anymore.
After listening to guys like Skane and Kaleb, I no longer fear knocking some length off a barrel to make a handier package. My last barrel was cut/ threaded at 16.5" and the 6.5 CM seems about perfect with a 6" long suppressor.
I have three Kimbers, one is factory threaded for a brake and with an adapter should accept a can. Do you have to pull the barrel from the action on the others to thread them or is there another process...?
Yes, pulling the barrel is the best route. For me, the mistake I made with getting barrels threaded was staying with full-length barrels, like 22" and 24". I'm not using anything over 20" with suppressed anymore.
After listening to guys like Skane and Kaleb, I no longer fear knocking some length off a barrel to make a handier package. My last barrel was cut/ threaded at 16.5" and the 6.5 CM seems about perfect with a 6" long suppressor.
Thanks Lonny,
It makes my gut churn just to think of taking a hacksaw to those rifles....
BT53 "Where do they find young men like this?" Reporter Savidge, Iraq Elk, it's what's for dinner....
I have three Kimbers, one is factory threaded for a brake and with an adapter should accept a can. Do you have to pull the barrel from the action on the others to thread them or is there another process...?
Yes, pulling the barrel is the best route. For me, the mistake I made with getting barrels threaded was staying with full-length barrels, like 22" and 24". I'm not using anything over 20" with suppressed anymore.
After listening to guys like Skane and Kaleb, I no longer fear knocking some length off a barrel to make a handier package. My last barrel was cut/ threaded at 16.5" and the 6.5 CM seems about perfect with a 6" long suppressor.
Thanks Lonny,
It makes my gut churn just to think of taking a hacksaw to those rifles....
Just work up the gumption for one at first, the rest will be easy after you’ve used the first one. BTDT. 😊
I have three Kimbers, one is factory threaded for a brake and with an adapter should accept a can. Do you have to pull the barrel from the action on the others to thread them or is there another process...?
Yes, pulling the barrel is the best route. For me, the mistake I made with getting barrels threaded was staying with full-length barrels, like 22" and 24". I'm not using anything over 20" with suppressed anymore.
After listening to guys like Skane and Kaleb, I no longer fear knocking some length off a barrel to make a handier package. My last barrel was cut/ threaded at 16.5" and the 6.5 CM seems about perfect with a 6" long suppressor.
Thanks Lonny,
It makes my gut churn just to think of taking a hacksaw to those rifles....
Yep, cutting down perfectly good Lilja and Krieger barrels wasn't easy for me, but I no longer fear it and darn glad I did it. To quote Kaleb, "Cut it like you mean it."
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