It gave me the idea to go to my local welding shop and have them make a rebar attachable holder that would be more portable and lighter and all I have to do is to pound in the two sidebars, and attach the top bar, better than all of the 2x4s!
Grade 8 carriage bolts on the front and locking washers and nuts on the back.
Rebar works well, as I mentioned in a previous post. No need to pound anything into the ground, if you build brackets for a sawhorse-type design.
Andy, I would encourage you to test the tracking and RTZ of your scope before assuming that it mechanically works correctly. That verification can avoid a bunch of irritation and confusion down the road.
Will do, Jordan. I'm about to order a collimator. Maybe should have before buying those turrets! Won't be the first $120 ignorance has cost me.
Is there any more functionality to the arbor type over the magnetic type? Magnetic type work well on stainless barrels?
I have yet to find a stainless barrel that the magnetic version won't stick to. I like to avoid putting metal in my bore, if I can.
I typically start shooting steel at 300-400 yards.
If you want, you could go to 1/2” AR500 steel, but I do not see any reason to go thicker than that.
Agreed. 3/8" AR500 is plenty. I've done a lot of shooting and torture testing of Hardox 500 (an AR500 variant), and it's not bullet mass or caliber that is the enemy of steel, but impact speed.
Originally Posted by xphunter
I would have extra chain-link with you when you shoot, because it’s easy to blow a hole through a chain.
I use conveyor belt strapping on my portable targets, that is what Chuck uses on his permanent steel range that I shoot at as well. Chuck has permanent steel that is not set up on a strap as well.
I strongly agree and highly recommend either old conveyor strap or else rubber mudflaps from Princess Auto cut into 3" straps. Both can take a lot of rounds before breaking, unlike chain links.
For the stand, I have built various designs, and for a portable stand, 4' lengths of 3/8" rebar and homemade brackets made from electrical conduit work extremely well and can take a lot more bullets without breaking than the 2x4-based designs.
Thanks, Jordan, I was thinking to myself, where in the hell am I going to buy Conveyor Belts lol, the Mudflaps will be the way I go for sure, heck maybe I will just take the ones out of my better half's SUV, and not tell her and when she asks, "Where did my mudflaps go?", I will say I saw a suspicious man in the hood, he stole them hahaha
PS: Are you ever up in Edmonton? If you are you are welcome to stay here. I am a gourmet cook as a hobby I will make you something special and we can watch your favorite western or movie in my home theater
It is kind of nice to see a couple of guys desiring to improve their skill-sets.
Seems like you Sir, are the leader, and we will all benefit from your expert advice, phenomenal knowledge, and truly remarkable shooting skills!
Much appreciated and thanks again!
Thank you, but I am not that guy. I am just a goofball who like to play at distance. In the LR hunting world and in the LR comp world (Multiple disciplines), there are many more better than me.
don't over look welding/machine shops for ar400 plate, it will stop any round at 50 yards with cup& core or copper bullet. you might be able to buy drop pieces at better price than per cut from a store . drop buy and get to know the owners and for the price of lunch you might score some good plates
don't over look welding/machine shops for ar400 plate, it will stop any round at 50 yards with cup& core or copper bullet. you might be able to buy drop pieces at better price than per cut from a store . drop buy and get to know the owners and for the price of lunch you might score some good plates
I would have extra chain-link with you when you shoot, because it’s easy to blow a hole through a chain.
I use conveyor belt strapping on my portable targets, that is what Chuck uses on his permanent steel range that I shoot at as well. Chuck has permanent steel that is not set up on a strap as well.
We hang our steel plates with belting at our range as well, and have found that it will take an incredible amount of abuse before it lets go, due to the fabric webbing in it. This one is a 3MOA plate at 1,000 meters . Hardox500 .The top beam is 10" angle iron, and the posts are 6" piping . Eve our 500 meter plates will take a .50BMG without denting. Cat
Remember Arem Von Benedikt's famous miss? I suspect that is much more common among long range hunters than reading about long range hunting on the internet reveals. Reading over on Rokslide, a lot of folks go for lighter recoiling rifles so that they can spot their misses. If they are missing enough that they need to be able to spot their misses, there's obviously going to be some bad hits too.
I admire folks who have developed a mastery of long range shooting and hunting. It definitely takes work. There's no doubt though that there are a lot more people who are much better on the internet or at the range that they are afield.
Remember Arem Von Benedikt's famous miss? I suspect that is much more common among long range hunters than reading about long range hunting on the internet reveals. Reading over on Rokslide, a lot of folks go for lighter recoiling rifles so that they can spot their misses. If they are missing enough that they need to be able to spot their misses, there's obviously going to be some bad hits too.
I admire folks who have developed a mastery of long range shooting and hunting. It definitely takes work. There's no doubt though that there are a lot more people who are much better on the internet or at the range that they are afield.
Lighter-recoiling rounds, muzzle brakes, and heavier rifles help in spotting all of your shots, not just misses
Spotting all of your shots is critical to rifle shooting, whether Long or shorter ranges, either for confirming you called wind properly and made a center hit or confirming otherwise. If the impact can be observed, a correction can be made by quickly measuring with your reticle and adjusting hold for a follow up round
All good rifle shooters concentrate on controlling recoil and spotting their shots. You can’t be good otherwise
Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
XP describes how I started doing it before I got a regular exposed turret. I had an older VX III and zeroed the turret Marker and simply turned to where the ballistics said I needed to hit. Myself and my buddy did okay okay to 600 shooting like that. Eventually we went to M1’s and then onto some better stuff but it was plenty to get started. I will say I don’t miss counting clicks these days!
Getting a good speed on your preferred load and a solid zero will put you on pretty solid ground.
Haha, I remember similar days, Scotty. Fun times. I began by using Duplex reticles and “Kentucky windage,” experimenting on water-filled milk jugs out to 600 yards. Then we moved on to BDC reticles like the BP, then to counting clicks, and then finally on to exposed and well-marked turrets. In those days, we’d have to range the target in a series of measurements since our RFs didn’t work all that well past about 400 yards.
A solid zero, a mechanically reliable scope, and a good RF will get a guy out to 500+ yards. Of course, a good muzzle speed and a ballistic calculator will expedite the process of getting field-verified DOPE.
I learned a lot during those days. I remember shooting my old 700 Whelen with 225 ABs at 2700 out to 600 and doing pretty decent back then. I think it had an old Minox 2-10 on it. While no one’s probably used them, that scope reliably did that sorta shooting pretty decently. But it didn’t take long doing the same with Leupold’s to see all is not the same. Not a knock on them, they just didn’t love being cranked around.
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