Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Brakes vs thread protector

During the last 60 years I've shot quite a few critters. In the past, especially on magnums, I don't recall hearing the sound of the impact on flesh when the target is under 200 yds.

I have not yet employed my SilencerCo Hybrid 46, but on everything 30 cal. and under I hear the "Whop", even at ranges under 100 yds. It is a totally different sound than when one misses.

For me, it inspires confidence!

Best,

GWB

DF

Is the brake on your 300 WM threaded on or is it part of the barrel? The 375H&H AI I have was threaded for a brake. I disliked the brake a bunch, so did the by-standers. A gunsmith friend said that all I needed to get the correct threads for the suppressor was to buy an adaptor. I think the adaptor was in the neighborhood of $10. The suppressor makes the 375 more enjoyable to shoot. The suppressors I bought are tungsten and they do not weigh much.

Bugger

I recently acquired two Kimbers, a 308 Win Montana and a 6.5 Creedmoor Mountain Ascent, that came with factory brakes. I just installed Hughes Precision thread protectors on both. I don't see myself ever owning a suppressor.

Last few rifles I’ve acquired have a brake, and came with thread caps. I never cared for the extra noise they seem to create but I’m sure liking what they do! A 7mm mag feels like a 243, no big muzzle jump either. I’ve always hunted with ear plugs at the ready so having a brake on is no big deal. An unbraked rifle is still damaging to my ears and since my state doesn’t allow suppressors I keep using the plugs. And add muffs when on the range!

But the U.S. requires all sorts of BS just to own ONE--a holdover from the "gangster" days of the Depression--which also adds to the cost. I can shoot dozens of rifles with ear protection costing far less....


Bingo.

Every range I use requires earpro, even when I’m shooting by myself. The few shots I’ve taken while deer hunting over the last 50+ years haven’t degraded my hearing significantly, certainly nothing like the 40 years I spent in high-noise work locations. Same goes for upland hunting. I have worn earpro while dove hunting, and likely will again. I also began carrying plugs when carrying very noisy handguns afield: .357 mag and 5.7x28, but so far they’ve not been needed. I do have a number of guns now that came threaded, mostly .22 caliber, and may at some point pick up a can for those, mostly for fun, and possibly for home defense and clandestine elimination of yard varmints.

I did invest in an extra set of e-muffs for use if ever I need to defend the castle. They sit right close to the bed for easy access, just like the guns. Those would give me a big advantage I think, as well as a bit of protection for my old, gray head. I’m also open to using e-plugs in the field if I ever find an effective set within my budget that also doesn’t create a bunch of background noise.

I hate brakes. Have one on a Ruger 10/22 CSC, which doesn’t seem to add to the report, through my plugs anyway. Anything that needs one so can stand to shoot it, I can do without.

Those not wanting to go the suppressor route might try a linear compensator. I was going to try one but went with a suppressor instead. No idea how effective they really are at reducing perceived blast, but that is the claim, and they aren't very expensive.

That's how I am too. I really like how the suppressors work though. Reducing recoil, while making the rifle quiet. They do get hot, and that can cause issues, but those things can be worked out.

Someone brought up a brake destabilizing the bullet on its way out, and that can have an effect on accuracy. I've seen that with smaller calibers, like 22lr's. Pull the brake, and accuracy goes back to good/normal. I also had one brake that I put on an AR15, that was creating some accuracy/precision issues. Because of this, I'll generally run linear comps now days, as those direct the sound and muzzle blast forward, instead of back in the shooters face, or out to the side where bystanders have to deal with the noise. However, the linear comp does not reduce recoil as well as a standard muzzle brake. It's just another option that may need to be considered.

Yep. I happened upon a pig last week that was only offering me a spine shot due to high grass. No "thwap" at the shot told me I had indeed not connected....

BSA what linear comp are you running?

Here in Aus it is almost impossible to get a suppressor. Not so in NZ where apparently you are frowned upon if you don’t have one. Just across the Ditch from us. Peculiar eh!

I actually mentioned that a brake reduces the amount of muzzle blast that perturbs and destabilizes the bullet. BR shooters used to talk about the bullet "going to sleep," and that had to do with the temporary destabilization as the bullet is perturbed by gases as it exits the muzzle before regaining gyroscopic stability.

I have a Pacnor barreled 6mm Rem with a Pacnor brake, accuracy is the same w/ or w/o the brake.

Hey rocdoc. I just buy mine off of ebay. You guys in AUS can probably buy them off of ebay as well? Not sure about that though. My boy lived in AUS and NZ for a while. Anyway, the ones I buy are about $40. Here's a pic, you may be able to see it well enough:



Showing it still shot well enough with the linear comp installed. ^^^

I've used them on AR15's and this AR10 6.5 Creedmoor, and they work well. Put one on a girlfriends Ruger AR15 as well, because the muzzle blast was so extreme that shooting it with the factory brake gave her a headache.

Also just now getting back from the range with my 10/22. I put a Volquartsen forward blow comp on it yesterday,


and the accuracy sucked balls!!! Pulled it off last night and put the thread protector back on, so precision would return back to normal:





This is the second time I've seen a brake or muzzle device make the rifle shoot worse. When that happens, pull them off, and start over, or just use a thread protector..

Thanks. Shall look them up.

Yep. I've tried the Kaw Valley linear comps too, and they work well. Good luck with the search..

Regarding accuracy changes with or without a brake. I remember gunsmiths Dave Miller and Curt Crum told me they shrunk a rifle's groups by adding a radial brake. They thought the gasses venting in all directions changed the barrel harmonics for the better.

Interesting Azshooter, more than a few years back I picked up a 2nd hand m700 police model 24 " barrel in 308. The previous owner had it threaded and put a JP muzzle break on it. I knew it would be loud but wanted to see.if indeed it cut recoil..I used real sandbags for forend and toe rest. Ear plugs and muffs. I had a swfa ss 10x on it. Went thru several powders tac and varget with 168 gr bullets. I don't get as involved seeking the last .1" I found a load that shot nice tight groups with the brake on the rifle just sits on the bags very little felt recoil. Pulled the brake off and the groups were twice as big same load. The JP deflects left and right. The radial brake on my Brn Hells Canyon is loud but it shoots damn nice. Sure don't need more decibels but they can help with somethings..mb

So, what you are saying is you tuned your load to the rifle when it was braked. Then pulling the brake off, it shot worse. The opposite approach can also be said. Tune the rifle load without the brake, then install the brake, and watch the groups get bigger.