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Campfire Kahuna
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Would the 24" takedown barrel be from a 26/27 99B takedown rifle? Reason I ask is I thought all the other 303 takedown barrels in that timeframe were 22".

Last edited by Fireball2; 03/05/24.

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#1 on using a good stripper, have refinished a few stocks over the years without ever touching the wood with sandpaper. Plastic scrapers and more stripper in stubborn areas have worked for me


"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
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Campfire Kahuna
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Originally Posted by S99VG
You should print out this post, laminate it and stick it in the bolt hole otherwise some guy down the road will be asking the same questions and, without the answers, maybe making wrong conclusions on originality long after you and I are gone.

I'm going to take your advice and include notes with all my rifles detailing their unique story during the time I owned them.

I know when I found a receipt for work done in the buttstock of a 99F in 284, I looked the owner up and actually was able to talk to him about his old rifle. Keep in mind the work order was from decades ago! He remembered owning the rifle but not the work he had done. It was great to talk to him. It gave the rifle more of a story. Can you imagine what these old rifles would say if they could talk?

Well, they can't, but we can. Great idea, I like it alot.


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Campfire Kahuna
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Originally Posted by damnesia
I've done it with gouges and also with a Dremel with a flex shaft. I prefer the Dremel for those side panels. Then use paper on a sanding block I made out of an eraser for the job. I do it pretty much just like FB2. I find it much easier. I do them first though. The only other thing I use a Dremel on a stock for was to rough in for the butt plate but now use a spindle sander for that.

I use the battery powered Dremel so the cord isn't working against me. That will hang up on something and you'll b cutting along and bing, off the tool goes into the wood. Anything corded or the flexible shaft for the Dremel will screw you up.

Maybe this is one of the key details separating the two schools of thought on using the Dremel? I know I could not use the corded tool w/o botching the work up.


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Campfire Kahuna
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Originally Posted by Jaaack
Not sure if it adds anything to the discussion, but my 99H with the “ ‘99 “ is #337113.

Interestingly, the forearm number on this rifle (#293,xxx) is 333xxx. Maybe it went back to the factory and got rebarreled or reworked in the later timeframe.


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Campfire 'Bwana
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99A/99B barrels were 24" after 1927.

Somebody should write a book with this info. grin


333,xxx is near the timeframe when we see that SAVAGE MODEL '99 roll stamp. I'd guess it was finished at that time rather than rebarreled/reworked then. It happened.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Campfire Kahuna
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Originally Posted by Calhoun
99A/99B barrels were 24" after 1927.

Somebody should write a book with this info. grin

Wouldn't that be helpful! LOL What's odd I guess is the use of a takedown barrel on a solid frame rifle. A sign of the times I'm sure.


333,xxx is near the timeframe when we see that SAVAGE MODEL '99 roll stamp. I'd guess it was finished at that time rather than rebarreled/reworked then. It happened.

I believe you fellas have ferreted out the story. Well done.


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Campfire 'Bwana
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Originally Posted by Fireball2
Wouldn't that be helpful! LOL What's odd I guess is the use of a takedown barrel on a solid frame rifle. A sign of the times I'm sure.
I have a 99R in 300 with a takedown barrel on it from 1932. I have a 1936 99EG in 22HP with takedown barrel. Think I have another.. 99E or 99A in 300 probably. Have seen quite a number of 1930's solid frame 99's with takedown barrels, even some 1920's guns.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Originally Posted by Fireball2
I forgot to mention that for cleaning up the woods minor dinks you wet a washrag and lay it on the dent, then apply a soldering gun directly on the wet cloth over the dent. It forces the steam into the wood lifting the wood back up. Steaming out imperfections is one key to not needing to remove too much wood by sanding. A light sanding blending the dent out is the most that's needed.

Another trick, for small dents, is to wet a bandaid and plaster it over the dent.


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Fireball , Just to let you know. I had to eliminate mold from an older style canvas umbrella tent that had been put away wet . I finally washed it in the bath tub with a quart or more of bleach which got rid of the mold but the residue bleach would rust metal very quickly when I touched anything with my dry hands after the tent job. After that baking soda worked on another moldy tent but I would have to rinse that bleached tent in a creek for an hour or two on a hot sunny day before trusting it on a camping trip with rifles.

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Barrel address and markings, raised ramp front sight, receiver ring marking, barrel proof style, forearm serial number, bottom of the barrel does not have the MP stamp which the majority of 1927 rifles did, all gives a clearer picture of the rifles history. The only thing left that I can think of that might determine if the rifle was returned for rework or built on an earlier serialed receiver would be the log books. At the time of the receiver serial number Savage was recording production and ship date. By the time of the forearm serial they were only recording a ship date. Knowing if there is production date logged might tie down when the rifle was assembled.

This rifle has been fun to work on. Having all the pieces to look at and ponder over makes me realize how far we have come in the last 20 plus years and how much we have learned. Thanks to all who have posted. grin


Savage...never say "never".
Rick...

Join the NRA...together we stand, divided we fall!


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Campfire Kahuna
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Originally Posted by Rick99
This rifle has been fun to work on. Having all the pieces to look at and ponder over makes me realize how far we have come in the last 20 plus years and how much we have learned. Thanks to all who have posted. grin

Rick, I couldn't agree more. Everyone was firing on all cylinders and really ground this one out. Wow, very nice coalescence of knowledge.


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Campfire 'Bwana
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Originally Posted by Rick99
The only thing left that I can think of that might determine if the rifle was returned for rework or built on an earlier serialed receiver would be the log books. At the time of the receiver serial number Savage was recording production and ship date.
No good there. By serial number 293,xxx they had stopped recording accepted from factory dates. Whether it was finished in line with it's peers or finished in 1931, you'll only get a ship date. Though that would likely tell you the answer. If there's an early ship date and a job number, or two ship dates.. it's reworked. If there's only one later ship date, it was just shipped late.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Campfire Kahuna
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Thank you all very much for the help.


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1 more thing , in Murray's book that barrel address has no -- and is called NO 7 I have called the ones with the dash 7A.

Norm


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You are correct. Most have the dash. The not dash rifles are a small subset of the total.


Savage...never say "never".
Rick...

Join the NRA...together we stand, divided we fall!


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