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Here is something for those who don't use pressure testing equipment: After you get a barrel clean, velocity will usually stabilize by 5 firings. It takes 12-15 for pressure to stabilize.
Yes...velocity can be stable and pressure still having some significant swings.
Charlie


The data and opinions contained in these posts are the results of experiences with my equipment. NO CONCLUSIONS SHOULD BE DRAWN FROM ANY DATA PRESENTED, DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ATTEMPT TO REPLICATE THESE RESULTSj
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Regarding JB bore paste, I seldom use it but my old jar is dry grit now. Can you add any type of oil and stir it back to being usable?

Also, all I know about Sweets and Barnes is they are strong, and I've always heard to stick with less than 30 min. of soaking, not overnight.

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I’ve got some sitting on my bench that hasn’t been used in over 20 years. I could try it I guess.

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Originally Posted by JD45
Regarding JB bore paste, I seldom use it but my old jar is dry grit now. Can you add any type of oil and stir it back to being usable?
t.


I have.


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Originally Posted by JD45
Regarding JB bore paste, I seldom use it but my old jar is dry grit now. Can you add any type of oil and stir it back to being usable?

Add a drop of vegetable oil and work that in. Add as needed but go slowly.


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Originally Posted by JD45
All I know about Sweets and Barnes is they are strong, and I've always heard to stick with less than 30 min. of soaking, not overnight.

The major active ingredient is ammonia, which has been used to dissolve copper fouling for well over a century. Sweets and Barnes CR-10 have a lot of ammonia, mixed with water and some other stuff. If you actually read the directions, both advise not leaving a single application in the bore for more than around 15 minutes, otherwise it can etch the bore.

Some of the newer copper-cleaners include oil, which prevents this, and can be left in the bore indefinitely with no problem, though they quit "working" within a day or so. Some also don't use ammonia.


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Originally Posted by MontanaMan
What's the consensus on shelf life for Sweet;s 7.62?

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Pretty much indefinately if it is sealed and has never been opened. If it has been opened much and not sealed well it will slowly die back. You can usually tell by the ammonia smell. Strong smell is good, if there isn't a strong ammonia smell it's weakened sometimes to the point of being useless.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
You were so certain you'd "discovered" the absolute BEST way to get carbon out of a bore that a number of people apparently didn't want to answer, for whatever reason.

My experience involves prepping a number of bores down to bare steel for installation of Dyna Bore-Coat since it was introduced over 15 years ago. It requires the bore to be absolutely clean, and the fastest method I came up with after some experimentation was around 20 strokes of a tight bore brush wrapped in a cotton patch, then slathered with JB Bore-Cleaning Compound. Would be willing to bet that's quicker than a brush and Kroil, since I also have considerable experience with Kroil. The JB method takes about three minutes--and eventually became part of the directions for installing DBC, which is highly effective in preventing carbon build-up.

At least a couple of people also suggested highly effective carbon cleaner/solvents.

For also curious about what kind of scope you have on the rifle you used to shoot the half-inch group at 50 yards.


as I made note before I had already tried several things. and this happened to actually work for me it was unusual spot in the barrel that I've never seen before about 2 in long that the entire area in the lands and grooves were black almost like spray like spray like spray painted.
and I'm taking note of every bit of other ideas in this thread..

I understand the bore paste is popular with a lot of people. personally I just don't like it that well. there is some in the cabinet..


the scope used is a Leipold AR 3-9x40 .. keep in mind this is on a mini-14.. and I know the parallax at that distance could be some issue.
I finally found a load the mini liked a bit better then others ..
I had never used 3031 in a . 223/5.66 before but its dure working here with 55gr bullets anyway .

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i generally use just wipe-out but when the groups open up ,i then do as my friend who still shoots competition ,is a machinist and still builds rifles for bench rest shooters has told me to do= a kinda worn out bronze brush of same size as bore , wrap longer patch on brush and plenty JB compound cleaner on patch and scrubb the crap out of that barrel takes 1/2 - 1 hour then clean barrel with rubbing alcohol . my groups always improve after i have cleaned a barrel that is really dirty then. > do i really want to clean a barrel ? heck no my Ruger #1 257 Weatherby mag. has not been cleaned for 3 or 4 years , but i only take 1 or 2 shots now days before deer season , my Nightforce scope and this Brux barrel Ruger #1 seems to hold 1 inch above the 1 inch circle that is good enough for me , but when i shoot my bench rifles i can tell when they need the J B / brush treatment after many shots taken at the range. Pete53

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i use cast bullets mostly, so i don't clean the barrel much. a properly fitted cast bullet and a gas check is all you need. my 444 Marlin and 30-40 Krag have shot 3000-4000 cast rounds each and once in a while i'll take a patch with Ballistol and run it down the bore about 4 or 5 times and then i'm done.

when i use cup-n-core (jacketed) bullets, i'll clean the rifle when its accuracy falls off. i use a TC Encore with a 23" MGM heavy factory barrel in 20 Vartarg that needs a cleaning when i'm about 100-125 shots. i've used Sweets, Shooters Choice, Gunslicks foaming bore cleaner and a whole bunch of other ones. i found out that copper solvents (don't matter which one) are #1 for cleaning. and if your lazy like me, Wipe Out and Gunslicks foaming bore cleaner are for you. just a push on the button and 1/2 - 1 hour later you need to patch it off. repeat if necessary. or you can plug up the rifle on the muzzle, put it vertically on the plug and it is either Shooters Choice or foaming bore cleaner (you have to it 3 or 4 times) and let it sit overnite.i use nylon brushes, i've gotton away from bronze brushes because my patches were still blueish green.

my dad (RIP) and the Army made me clean rifles religiously. "whenever you done shooting the rifle, you need to clean it" they used to say. i used to dread cleaning the rifles in the Army. now, i don't clean as much. a Ballistol rag on the outside of rifle and i'm done.


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Originally Posted by CharlieSisk
Here is something for those who don't use pressure testing equipment: After you get a barrel clean, velocity will usually stabilize by 5 firings. It takes 12-15 for pressure to stabilize.
Yes...velocity can be stable and pressure still having some significant swings.
Charlie
Interesting!
Charlie, could you expound more on this subject, when you have the inclination? A separate post would be neat so folks could find it easier. That is, if you are interested!

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Originally Posted by prairie_goat
Originally Posted by CharlieSisk
Here is something for those who don't use pressure testing equipment: After you get a barrel clean, velocity will usually stabilize by 5 firings. It takes 12-15 for pressure to stabilize.
Yes...velocity can be stable and pressure still having some significant swings.
Charlie
Interesting!
Charlie, could you expound more on this subject, when you have the inclination? A separate post would be neat so folks could find it easier. That is, if you are interested!
PGoat
Lets talk about that.
Charlie


The data and opinions contained in these posts are the results of experiences with my equipment. NO CONCLUSIONS SHOULD BE DRAWN FROM ANY DATA PRESENTED, DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ATTEMPT TO REPLICATE THESE RESULTSj
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Originally Posted by prairie_goat
Originally Posted by CharlieSisk
Here is something for those who don't use pressure testing equipment: After you get a barrel clean, velocity will usually stabilize by 5 firings. It takes 12-15 for pressure to stabilize.
Yes...velocity can be stable and pressure still having some significant swings.
Charlie
Interesting!
Charlie, could you expound more on this subject, when you have the inclination? A separate post would be neat so folks could find it easier. That is, if you are interested!

That velocity stabilization seems to be more pronounced as a barrel wears it seems. But maybe that’s just individual barrels reacting differently.

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Originally Posted by ldholton
[quote=Mule Deer]

the scope used is a Leipold AR 3-9x40 .. keep in mind this is on a mini-14.. and I know the parallax at that distance could be some issue.
I finally found a load the mini liked a bit better then others ..
I had never used 3031 in a . 223/5.66 before but its dure working here with 55gr bullets anyway .

So you "know the parallax at that distance could be some issue."

How did you deal with the parallax?


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Originally Posted by ldholton
[quote=Mule Deer]

the scope used is a Leipold AR 3-9x40 .. keep in mind this is on a mini-14.. and I know the parallax at that distance could be some issue.
I finally found a load the mini liked a bit better then others ..
I had never used 3031 in a . 223/5.66 before but its dure working here with 55gr bullets anyway .

So you "know the parallax at that distance could be some issue."

How did you deal with the parallax?
well I under first I understand bait when I get there..

but me in a situation like that is get my eye and watch The parallax move and try to place my eye as good as I can for what I'm dealing with..

now let's hear the rest of the story you're the gun Rider you're the pro I want to hear it.



for a price and it's not meant to disrespect you at all I absolutely hats off to you when your knowledge and things you've done but sometimes.. I've also on private shooting ranges chronographs borescopes all kinds of stuff for many years
I just don't put my thoughts into words all that great sometimes.

let alone been paid for it and did articles or even better yet let alone been given stuff I bought all my stuff. don't get me wrong I'd buy you separate heartbeat to sit down and visit with you hats off all respect to you..
you must Believe before you achieve you must Believe

that was supposed to be supper not separate.
talk to text bit me again about the old reading glasses it's hard for me to see this fine print.

Last edited by ldholton; 03/06/24.
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I learned a trick from one of the guys at Leupold many years ago for eliminating parallax at shorter ranges with non-parallax adjustable scopes: While aiming, back your eye away from the eyepiece of the scope until a black ring appears evenly around the field of view. That eliminates the parallax.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
I learned a trick from one of the guys at Leupold many years ago for eliminating parallax at shorter ranges with non-parallax adjustable scopes: While aiming, back your eye away from the eyepiece of the scope until a black ring appears evenly around the field of view. That eliminates the parallax.
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