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RayF Offline OP
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Before this little experiment, I did comparison loads between W231, N320 and N340. I got more velocity and accuracy with W231 (VV’s posted velocities weren’t achieved in my pistols). No difference in perceived recoil.

I love VV powders. I use them extensively in all of my 9mm. I just couldn’t get it to out perform W231 in my situation with .45acp. I had a pound of 3N37 in my hand a few days ago (considering to buy). There’s very little posted gains in using 3N37 over N340, however, and I came to terms with W231 ain’t broke, so I’m not gonna fix it. Those VV powders sure burn clean, though. I hope you find the load you’re looking for.

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If this works right it should go to Elvis Ammo's powder coating videos.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLOSHOPXfJ6KitiNGzgexQXeOhfZAkNp8i&si=qL2vq6mst3LYM0lX

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Originally Posted by RayF
Made the first batch and I have to agree, JFE. Times are too close to suggest either one having an advantage in that regard. Excluding equipment set up (pulling out equipment, setting up bench, etc), powder coating took 45-50 min for 100 rounds from turning on the oven until finished boolit. Traditional lube took 40-45 minutes from heating up the Lubrisizer until those boolits were finished.

The mess was a trade off (powder dust vs wax). Since equipment prep was specific to each process’s set up, I did not include mounting the Lubrisizer (since some may have their’s permanently mounted), changing Lubrisizer dies (which requires warming Lubrisizer up to remove/replace and then adjust) or adding a wax tube.

I had some botched PC rounds because I transferred too much powder to the oven tray and failed to adequately separate the projos, but they came out pretty decent for a rookie.

[Linked Image]

I ordered two 1/8 inch Aluminum plates from Online Metals dot com custom cut to fit my toaster oven. They are much easier to use than the racks which came with the oven.

Then I steal some parchment paper from Momma's kitchen and sit the bullets on the paper. That keeps the paint off the Aluminum and maintains the level surface.

I am still very satisfied with powder from Harbor Freight purchased 10 years ago. At the time the lime green was recommended. It is working well with one coat.

If oil contamination is interfering with adhesion, a quick bath in 91% isopropal alcohol or in acetone will fix that issue. I have removed carnuba wax from lubed bullets and then powder coated them successfully.


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Originally Posted by RayF
LOL.

Lets just say I’ve been doing this for a minute. Lets just pretend that the Lyman #2 boolits are sized 0.002” over a properly slugged barrel. Aaaaand lets pretend the load data (using several powders) came from a well broken-in Lyman’s 4th edition of cast bullet handbook. Then lets pretend the mouth of the case is an acceptable 0.471”.

Now…..I may not be as seasoned as some, but that’s enough information for a person so knowledgeable that they can clearly see I’m doing something drastically wrong to tell me what it is.

Didn’t ask your opinion about what happens when it smokes, much less when it happens where you’re at. Didn’t ask about your opinion on messy. Certainly didn’t ask for any snark about what you want to hear.

For the reading impaired, please read slowly and repeat, if necessary: I can prevent leading if I traditionally lube and I’m considering PC. Any new developments on PC? Feel free to not respond if you know a whole lot about everything except PC.


Ray, for the record…. I’ve been casting about 35 years. Just started powder coating 4 years ago and have never looked back! I cast with pure wheel weights, yes pure ones :-), and have absolutely zero leading in everything I shoot without thinking or worrying about the bullet being the perfect size. From what I can tell, it doesn’t matter much with the PC, they just don’t lead a bore. Loading mostly for rifles now but still shoot plenty in pistols too. Some gaschecked, some not.

I like they fact they don’t smoke and of course much cleaner to handle. I’m not nit picky clean but have no reason to like getting that sticky lube on everything I touch in the shop.

I’ve used only Eastwood paint, Ford Blue and periwinkle grey. They are both very dry and coat well. Also got some gloss black but that is too “non dry”. It worked ok mixing it with the other two. Bake for 20 minutes at 400 degrees.

I stand the bigger ones on their base on a silicon mat. Smaller, longer ones i use a silicon “candy” mold mat and stand them in the corners.

My luber sizers have basically been retired and I size with Lee push throughs.

Hope this helps!

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Heck, what am I saying…. Go to artfulbullet.com, more powder coasters there than here. I learned everything I know about it from those guys! Great bunch that will tell you everything you want to know.

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Don't have a Creedmore and I don't powder coat. Guess someday when I get old and gay I might consider it.

.44 Mag at 25 yards
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Load testing the Sneezer at 25 yards
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Sneezer at 50 yards, still testing loads
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Why would I try to fix something not broken?

Besides, my bullets are prettier than yours anyway. grin


I am..........disturbed.

Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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Almost forgot. My .45-70 makes me angry. Purchased a scope for it, but it had a tang sight already, so went to the range like that.

Plain ol' cast bullets.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Best I could do at 100 yds with black powder and an elbow rest. Where in heck is the famous one hole group to be found?
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


I am..........disturbed.

Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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PC'ing aficionados: just want to shoot, and shoot as cheaply or hassle free as they can. I'd wager they would cheerfully stick with jacketed bullets if they were as cheap and readily available as a couple pounds of lead. They aren't fascinated with the arcane knowledge required to master the art of traditional bullet casting. They complain about leading (without getting to the bottom of it), smoke (meh - so what, unless at an indoor range), messiness in handling lubes/bullets/equipment (WTH, the skills by which to avoid making a mess are borne from skills one learned in kindergarten), and dirty guns (again WTH - you clean your guns regardless of what you shoot through them anyway right, right?). Lastly, it would seem that a primary goal is to achieve jacketed bullet velocity/performance with lead bullets - obviously missing the whole point (when I want that kind of performance I simply reach onto the shelves where my jacketed stuff is stored). Not a judgement, just an observation - but I'll bet there'll be indignation a-plenty.

Traditional cast bullet people: the means to an end is as important as the end itself, maybe actually is the end in and of itself. Working and thinking within the framework of protocols established in the past while at the same time striving to perfect them. They eschew taking "the easy way out" (if it is indeed easier), preferring instead the intellectual challenge of meeting and exceeding the benchmarks set down by cast bullet shooters in the past. (My personal goal is to equal or better the 10-shot 200 yard record group fired in 1903 by C.W.Rowland - 7/8", with a .32-40 single shot, soft lead plain-base bullets and duplex black powder - not bettered until the late 1960's and extremely rarely since then. I've gotten kinda close. You try it sometime.) Lastly, for those of us chasing ultimate accuracy with lead, the jury is still out (and arguing in sequestration chambers) as to whether PC'ing represents a panacea for that - not much of it shows up in the equipment lists of CBA, ISS, and ASSRA match competitors, hint.

At the end of the day, to each his own. Different strokes and all that. Just don't try to tell me that one system or the other is the best thing since sliced bread.


"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
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I haven't gotten into powder coating yet. Being pretty heavily invested in traditional sizing and lubricating I really doubt that I ever will. I see some of the advantages so I probably shouldn't say never!


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