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Joined: Jun 2004
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 34,312 Likes: 10 |
Double check that sub floor thickness, sagging between joists is not common with 3/4 plywood.
Like I said, looks like 1/2 inch to me
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 18,935 Likes: 2
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 18,935 Likes: 2 |
Double check that sub floor thickness, sagging between joists is not common with 3/4 plywood.
Like I said, looks like 1/2 inch to me While not common 24" centers is a decent span, even for 3/4" plywood.
The last time that bear ate a lawyer he had the runs for 33 days!
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,063 Likes: 3
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,063 Likes: 3 |
Double check that sub floor thickness, sagging between joists is not common with 3/4 plywood.
Like I said, looks like 1/2 inch to me While not common 24" centers is a decent span, even for 3/4" plywood. when you say decent span even for 3/4...I assume you mean its on the verge of to much span.....bob
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 47,209 Likes: 5
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 47,209 Likes: 5 |
I use these for door jams, I've got two right now both over 3 years old and I use them all the time, no need to spend big bucks. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-amp-variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-57808.html
Last edited by stxhunter; 03/24/24.
God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
Roger V Hunter
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 18,935 Likes: 2
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 18,935 Likes: 2 |
Double check that sub floor thickness, sagging between joists is not common with 3/4 plywood.
Like I said, looks like 1/2 inch to me While not common 24" centers is a decent span, even for 3/4" plywood. when you say decent span even for 3/4...I assume you mean its on the verge of to much span.....bob It's possible depending on how many plies.
The last time that bear ate a lawyer he had the runs for 33 days!
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,789
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
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If its not T&G subfloor then they likely used cdx and didn't see much glue in the one photo.
Blocking would be a solution, but not possible with a finished ceiling below.
Replacing the SF would not be something I would not be interested in.
Stairs, unless you have changed something, adding 3/4" to the top rise creates a awkward and potentially unacceptable variance in the rises. 3/8" is typically maximum acceptable variation. People base the rise by the first step.
I assume any staris leaving this area is going to a lower level? It really is the same deal if you are dealing with ascending stairs, the rise is less, however if someone trips they fall into the stairs not down.
PVC pipe would not be my choice, but certainly acceptable.
End matched refers to the ends of pieces of flooring also being T&G, pretty common and necessary if using random lenghts.
Why are you set on using a true hardwood floor?
Depending on where you live the joints can open/ close seasonally.
If I was looking at this job for a client I would be steering them to LVP floor, apply some good underlayment, replace the baseboard and move on.
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 28,188 Likes: 3
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 28,188 Likes: 3 |
He asked for experts If its not T&G subfloor then they likely used cdx and didn't see much glue in the one photo.
Blocking would be a solution, but not possible with a finished ceiling below.
Replacing the SF would not be something I would not be interested in.
Stairs, unless you have changed something, adding 3/4" to the top rise creates a awkward and potentially unacceptable variance in the rises. 3/8" is typically maximum acceptable variation. People base the rise by the first step.
I assume any staris leaving this area is going to a lower level? It really is the same deal if you are dealing with ascending stairs, the rise is less, however if someone trips they fall into the stairs not down.
PVC pipe would not be my choice, but certainly acceptable.
End matched refers to the ends of pieces of flooring also being T&G, pretty common and necessary if using random lenghts.
Why are you set on using a true hardwood floor?
Depending on where you live the joints can open/ close seasonally.
If I was looking at this job for a client I would be steering them to LVP floor, apply some good underlayment, replace the baseboard and move on.
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/qMjL6f8C/27-FD3-F35-D9-CF-4-FC0-AE24-D01508-F7-AF1-C.gif)
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 34,312 Likes: 10
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 34,312 Likes: 10 |
Double check that sub floor thickness, sagging between joists is not common with 3/4 plywood.
Like I said, looks like 1/2 inch to me While not common 24" centers is a decent span, even for 3/4" plywood. when you say decent span even for 3/4...I assume you mean its on the verge of to much span.....bob It's possible depending on how many plies. Even without the T&G, plywood rated for structural sub flooring is different than standard plywood. It has layers that are not just altered 90*, but one or two that are at a 45*, we used to call it StrudyFloor Regardless, his subfloor is neither T&G or subfloor rated. I still have a hard time believing it is 3/4
Last edited by steve4102; 03/24/24.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 34,312 Likes: 10
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 34,312 Likes: 10 |
He is better off sheeting the whole thing with a Sturdy floor sheathing and then applying click together or glue down
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,741
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Oct 2016
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Sorry , I misspelled molding. I use shoe mold unless the customer asks that the base be removed. . I don't like the "base shoe" look and would rather have base at full height above the floor. I could see on a remodel where you might want to leave the existing base and then add base shoe. It's all personal taste, I like the cleaner look of just the base and a cleaner interface with the door casings. Glad someone mentioned using a Multi-Tool for cutting off the door casings. This tool was a boon to floor guys. The stair mention was about the added height to your last riser with the new floor covering. Unavoidable unless the entire stair is re-done....not practical in most cases. There may be other new floor interfaces to deal with like existing thresholds, door bottoms and lower floor surfaces. Use the roll underlayment....several brands like Quiet Floor. "All edges supported" on your plywood subfloor....no plywood butt joints unsupported. Get your fat guy buddy to walk around and identify any floor squeaks and soft spots that need to be taken care of. Thoroughly think through which direction to run the new flooring. Often one way makes the room look bigger and the other makes the room look smaller. Some rooms like a corridor, look better "long way". An entry area might look best with the flooring running away from the entry door instead of across it. If you have to change directions, make the transition at the center of a door bottom or other natural break, if any. Mark your joist locations. Use random locations for your flooring butt joints. A uniform "stair step" pattern does not look good at all. Use (rent) a bona fide hardwood flooring pneumatic nail gun. This is a mallet-actuated gun.
B L M - Bureau of Land Management
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 47,209 Likes: 5
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 47,209 Likes: 5 |
I buy very few high-end hand tools or small electric tools for work, they have a way of disappearing between helpers and others on job sites.
God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
Roger V Hunter
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,789
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,789 |
Sorry , I misspelled molding. I use shoe mold unless the customer asks that the base be removed. . I don't like the "base shoe" look and would rather have base at full height above the floor. I could see on a remodel where you might want to leave the existing base and then add base shoe. It's all personal taste, I like the cleaner look of just the base and a cleaner interface with the door casings. Glad someone mentioned using a Multi-Tool for cutting off the door casings. This tool was a boon to floor guys. The stair mention was about the added height to your last riser with the new floor covering. Unavoidable unless the entire stair is re-done....not practical in most cases. There may be other new floor interfaces to deal with like existing thresholds, door bottoms and lower floor surfaces. Use the roll underlayment....several brands like Quiet Floor. "All edges supported" on your plywood subfloor....no plywood butt joints unsupported. Get your fat guy buddy to walk around and identify any floor squeaks and soft spots that need to be taken care of. Thoroughly think through which direction to run the new flooring. Often one way makes the room look bigger and the other makes the room look smaller. Some rooms like a corridor, look better "long way". An entry area might look best with the flooring running away from the entry door instead of across it. If you have to change directions, make the transition at the center of a door bottom or other natural break, if any. Mark your joist locations. Use random locations for your flooring butt joints. A uniform "stair step" pattern does not look good at all. Use (rent) a bona fide hardwood flooring pneumatic nail gun. This is a mallet-actuated gun. There is only one way to run the flooring in this situation, perpendicular to the joists.
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 67,238 Likes: 43
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 67,238 Likes: 43 |
Seems to be an ass load of flooring experts.
Should change the name of this place. Hmmm, I never knew.
Go with Roger’s advice.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 47,209 Likes: 5 |
The thing about these is the guard around the blade can keep you from getting into tight corners so on the two I had years ago I removed the guards which makes them dangerous as hell. I wouldn't let anyone use them because I knew how easy it would be to lose fingers.
God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
Roger V Hunter
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13,247 Likes: 2
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13,247 Likes: 2 |
My Wife, and I worked a month on a 12x16 ft floor in our cabin. No surprise.
Let's Go Brandon! FJB
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13,247 Likes: 2
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13,247 Likes: 2 |
Seems to be an ass load of flooring experts.
Should change the name of this place. Hmmm, I never knew.
Go with Roger’s advice. Almost as many experts as on the medical question threads.
Let's Go Brandon! FJB
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 28,188 Likes: 3
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 28,188 Likes: 3 |
Just buy real 2x4s and drink black coffee . Pray.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 61,010 Likes: 18
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 61,010 Likes: 18 |
I do not claim to be an expert.
These premises insured by a Sheltie in Training ,--- and Cooey.o
"May the Good Lord take a likin' to you"
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 14,949 Likes: 8
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 14,949 Likes: 8 |
I do not claim to be an expert. It’s a good thing
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Joined: Nov 2007
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 47,209 Likes: 5 |
If the floor joists are lower under the walls, and joists are 24" apart , the walls are carrying too much weight for the 24" joists can support. I am not sure , it is hard to tell with a post . I dont do all that many hardwood floors anymore , since the laminated stuff became the craze. There are some things you need to make sure of.. If the joists can support the weight that the wall is bearing, it may be settled after all those years. It is very hard to prop a joist up from underneath if it is low and holding weight. That would mean you would have to raise the joist, the wall , the ceiling joist
and rafters.. If the floor is lower just around the walls, it seems they settled. If they are done settling, you can just put a 4" strip of plywood around the where the subfloor is low , screw and glue it and you should be good. Again, i am not sure exactly what the problem is so I am guessing a little. If it helps, it is rare to take out carpet to install hardwood floor and not have repairs. We always have a few low and high joists. If it is only 1/8", we dont care, but 1/2" is not good. Pictures might help. Sorry, I made a mistake. It's about 1/4" variance instead of 1/2". I went back and corrected my post. It's late and I wasn't thinking through what I was typing. Not that it's great, but it's not quite as bad as 1/2". 1/4 inch over how much span? Thats very little except if it's in a really small area.
God bless Texas-----------------------
Old 300
I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull
Its not how you pick the booger..
but where you put it !!
Roger V Hunter
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