I have a 221 built on a 700ADL action. I bought the action off of someone who was carring it during an ATV accident. He modified the stock by breaking it at the wrist, pulled the scope ring from the bases, and lastly bent the barrel at a 20 degree angle about at the end fo the forearm. I had a hard time pulling the barrel, it seemed to have much more stress against the action on the side it was bent towards.<P>I used a Shilen #3 chrome moley barrel, and a Brown Perscion stock blank. I used a barrel with a 1 in 9 twist, and was going to try to reload 45 grain jacketed bullets at about 1200 to 1400 feet per second and use it for squirrel as well as ground hogs. Never got that far. Figured when I get the throat shot out I will buy a 223 finish reamer and make it a 223. (How' that for frugal.)<P>Here in northern Ohio most woodchucks are under someone's barn or outbuildings. This makes a great little round for 175 to 200 yard woodys. I haave only tried two powders, and two bullets. Accurate 2015xbr, and 1680. For bullets I've used Sierra 50 Blitzes, and 50 grain Balistic Tips. The ballistic tips seem more accurate. I prep primer pockets, and reload with Hornady New Dimension dies. REsize to the poiint that a fired case just closes on a stripped bolt. <P>If you wnat to start from scratch, there is no substitute for one of the small Sako action if you want to make a small, light rifle. I always swear by Sako actions. If you checkout the quality of the machine work i.e. squareness, perpendicularness, co-axiality, and finish they are only rivaled by the "custom" small volume manufactured actions (Stolle, Hall, etc.) which are in a class by themselves.