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Sorry about the blurry picture but here is a pic of the firing pin assembly from my Sucks 7mm SAUM. This is different from all of my other sucks firing pins because the spring seems more compressed and is not in a straight line, thus it most likely touches the inside of the bolt.

The gun functions properly and a gunsmith told me this is OK, however none of my other Remington's have a spring that looks like this.

Does anyone else have a firing pin assembly that looks like this? Should I replace this since it could effect the lock time of the rifle?

[Linked Image]

GB1

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7mm
What you have is the newest latest greatest from Remington, the J-lok. I despise those things. I replace these on every rifle I build. If it shoots ok, leave well enough alone I guess. I have yet to figure out why they made the spring like that .
Charlie


The data and opinions contained in these posts are the results of experiences with my equipment. NO CONCLUSIONS SHOULD BE DRAWN FROM ANY DATA PRESENTED, DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ATTEMPT TO REPLICATE THESE RESULTSj
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That'd be the "slinky spring" syndrome that you may have heard about. That is how my mine looked too. I had Gre-Tan replace mine with his firing pin assembly. It replaced the slinky spring, removed the jlock AND knocked 3 oz of weight off. All for about $65!

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MS- Is that a DIY project or did you have them do it? I'm thinking my ADL may need a wart-ectomy, but it shoots pretty good now. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

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I had him do it because I already had the rifle in there for a trigger job (he's in Greeley, not too far away), but it couldn't have taken him more than a minute or two. I haven't done one myself.

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Pointer

Very simple job that takes no more than a few minutes. I often one-up the Gre-Tan set-up by adding a Tubb's Ti firing pin which decreases locktime and shaves weight. The Ti pin includes a beefier spring to make up for the lighter pin, but it costs as much as the entire Gre-Tan set-up.



Neither will negatively affect your accuracy. Quicker locktime may improve it.

art

Last edited by Sitka deer; 02/09/04.

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Sitka,

Where do you get the Tubb's Ti firing pin? I cannot find them for the 700 on Brownell's, Midway or MidSouth's online catalogs.

I did find a Tubb's Speed Lock System (I think it's aluminum) at Midway and a Taylor entire firing pin assembly. Where could I get a non-ISS schroud if I use the Tubb's pin?

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I got mine(Tubbs ti firing pin assy's) from Brownells.


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7,
You can get the Tubb System through Brownells or Sinclair, as well as a number of other places. Sinclair sells a Davidson Bolt Shroud without the Idiot Lock that is quite a bit lighter than the factory issue.

In most cases if you get a new shroud, you will need to get the old style Tubb Kit (Pre J-Lock) and a new cocking piece. Gre-Tan makes a cocking piece that is available through Brownells and Numrich had a factory old style cocking piece available a while back.

The easiest way to go is to get the entire Gre-Tan assembly and drop it in. It takes about a minute to change the whole system that way.

Gre-Tan Assembly and cocking piece

Tubb Kit

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CAS will the 700 short assembly work with a Model Seven Magnum?

Also, if I get the Gre-Tan Assembly from Brownells, does that come with the cocking piece as well or is it separate.

Thanks,
Sam

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I really like that little green tool for cleaning a bolt.

I've been thinking about replacing a pin and spring with the "speed kit" you guys are talking about. Moslty because the pin and spring was very rusty on this action. I cleaned it up, but I am concerned that it might continue to rust down the road. What's the best and least expensive tool to use to disassmeble the pin and spring?


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SD- Thanks for the info, I'll have to do that.

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7,
A Gre-Tan 700 short assembly will not work in a model 7. If you want to use it in a model 7 you can buy the Tubb spring and pin for that model rifle. I am not sure if the Gre-Tan cocking piece will work or not, since I've never taken apart a model 7 assembly.

For a 700 short the Gre-Tan assembly does come with the cocking piece and is fully assembled.

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PDS,

Below are links to the two tools that I use. I'm sure Brownells has some other options as well.

Firing Pin Removal Tool

Mainspring Changing Tool

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Thanks.


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CAS,

Thanks for the info, I own several remingtons so those tools will be valuable over the long run.

I don't mind the ISS so using the Tubb assembly is fine with me.

Funny how the main spring changing tool description doesn't say it will work on Model 7s but will work on Models 700, 721, 722, 600, 40X, and XP-100. I'll bet it was an oversight.

To clarify what I'll need for this job.

1. The Tubb Pin and Spring.
2. The firing Pin tool
3. The main spring tool
4. I'll use my existing shroud and cocking piece

This doesn't seem like it's too difficult but how difficult is this to botch? I know the hazards of screwing up a Remington Trigger so I just get a smith to do mine so I won't worry about it.

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7,
As long as you've got a proper size punch to get the old pin apart (Home Depot has them) it is really no big deal.

The trickiest part is making sure that the hole through the end of the firing pin lies up with the holes in the cocking piece. If they are just a little bit off the retaining pin will go part way in and stick. At that point you've got a bit of work to get it out without buggering everything up (trust me, I speak from experience on this one).

If you order from Brownells, you may want to go ahead and get a new Firing Pin Cross Pin, as yours may get dinged when you drive it out.

Firing Pin Cross Pin

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CAS
The safety on the seven requires a flat be filed on the side of the shroud for clearance, that is the only difference between the units. Last I knew, Gre-Tan does not make a seven shroud so it requires modification of the 700.

Cocking pieces are identical.
art


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Thanks Art. I've got my eye on a Model 7 that's been available for awhile, and that's good info to give me heads up on what I'm getting myself into.


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