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I recently was given a '99 in .303 Savage by my father in law. It had a lot of surface rust, and a buttstock which had cracks too large for me to try to repair. I cleaned up the surface rust and tried to remove the buttstock, and thats where it got interested to say the least.
I removed the buttplate and took a long flat head screwdriver and started (I thought) to remove the stock. Somehow the bolt went through the side of the stock and added a new crack to the side, yet the bolt is not coming out and the tang is still snug.
What am I doing wrong???
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Campfire Outfitter
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Sometimes it's to tight to the tang and the bolt isn't actually threaded into the reciever anymore and the stock itself is just holding onto it, a good pull usually brings it off but in your case with the bolt actually coming through the side of the wood I'd say you had more problems than just a tight stock.
Not sure what to tell you cause 've never crossed paths with another thread on that happening before.
24 hour sarcastic S.O.B.
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I cracked a stock one time on a old shotgun because instead of haveing the screwdriver in the screw slot I had the screwdriver between the screw head and the stock.
Mike
Always talk to the old guys , they know stuff.
Jerry Miculek
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6mm250- I thought of that, but it actually seems as though the bolt is warped/bent inside of the stock. When I turn the screwdriver the bolt pushes out the cracked stock at the same location with each revolution of the bolt.
Since the buttstock is alreay shot, should I just bust the stock to free it and then address the cause???
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Joined: Feb 2003
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No, don't go breaking the stock to get the bolt out.
If the bolt is turning then the threads are to, it's either already free of the reciever or it's only gonna take a few more turns.
24 hour sarcastic S.O.B.
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I've loosened a few stubborn stock bolts with a generous squirt
of PB Blaster on the bolt (as close to the receiver as possible).
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Joined: Jan 2012
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I do 2 things which you might consider when loosening a stock
bolt with a screwdriver: shine a tiny flashlight beam down the
hole in the stock leading to the bolt and imagine a clock surrounding the bolt head to locate the orientation of the slot
in the bolt head. With a very small light beam (eg a small
Maglight) you can usually check to see if your screwdriver is
actually in the slot before turning it.
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A bore light and a screw driver both fit in the hole at the same time.
24 hour sarcastic S.O.B.
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I'm a big fan of using a slotted tire iron for the rear stock removal on 99's. I forget who first brought that to my attention, but thanks. I've used that to break free a few 99 stock bolts that didn't want to unthread with a screwdriver. The blade fits the screw slot perfectly and the larger diameter of the tire iron also makes it easier to find (and stay in) the screw head slot. I NEVER saw a 99 stock bolt come through the wood, but I guess theres a first time for everything. As mad_dog suggests, don't go turning the stock in to splinters. Slow & steady, you really can only pull straight back on the rear stock until the bolt is completely unthreaded, as any rotation of the stock will split the "ears" for sure. Good luck. -TomT
"I'm from the government, and I'm here to help"
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Thanks gentlemen. I'm gonna try the tire iron idea, and I'll let everyone know what happens. Once I get the rifle together, I'll start bugging you guys as to where I can find ammo for a .303 Savage.
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Sounds like either the bolt is bent or the stock has warped. If the problem is in the stock it might account for why it cracked in the first place.
Savage...never say "never".
Rick...
Join the NRA...together we stand, divided we fall!
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In many cases with a wrong size screw driver one can get the driver head between the wood and the bolt head and actually think that he is unscrewing the bolt when in fact he is not..and it does make one believe the bolt is bent...
I made myself a hole size screw driver out of round bar stock, with a fitted blade for the savage screw and it has a simple T handle..It has all the leverage in the world and its impossible to miss the bolt head with it. If a bolt head is rusted then it will break that joint 98% of the time without damage to the rifle.
Once you get the bolt out of the threads, then gently rock the stock, hit it in the butt lightly with a rubber head hammer (with the butt plate on) then rock it out and back at the same time..A 99 stock is damn easy to break at this point as the side walls of the stock are very thin and as it comes back it is no longer supported by the action frame.
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It sounds as if the threads are stripped /rusted you will have to pull back on the stock as you turn the bolt..
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In many cases with a wrong size screw driver one can get the driver head between the wood and the bolt head and actually think that he is unscrewing the bolt when in fact he is not..and it does make one believe the bolt is bent...
I made myself a hole size screw driver out of round bar stock, with a fitted blade for the savage screw and it has a simple T handle..It has all the leverage in the world and its impossible to miss the bolt head with it. If a bolt head is rusted then it will break that joint 98% of the time without damage to the rifle.
Once you get the bolt out of the threads, then gently rock the stock, hit it in the butt lightly with a rubber head hammer (with the butt plate on) then rock it out and back at the same time..A 99 stock is damn easy to break at this point as the side walls of the stock are very thin and as it comes back it is no longer supported by the action frame.
Sounds like a very handy tool. Can't be too safe with those stock bolts.
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Gentlemen.
You were correct, I was going between the stock bolt and the stock- cracking the stock with the screwdriver. The stock is now off, and I will continue with my restoration.
Thank You!
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This is an old thread but the screwdriver through the side of the stock happened to me. I was sick about it. The repair would have cost me over 500. Fortunately I found a NOS butt stock on Ebay in the original box with paperwork for 300. I have since told my gunsmith about it and he said he did the same thing years ago. He also thought at one time there was a special screwdriver that fit the hole and centred itself to the hole. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing?
"Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit"
Oscar Wilde
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It would be easy enough to make such a screwdriver. Start with a round shank screwdriver with a tip big enough to solidly address the screw slot. Bust the handle off of it, turn (or have someone turn) a metal bushing (can be brass, aluminum, or any old thing- heck even wood would probably be ok) to fit snugly onto the screwdriver shank with an out side diameter close to the hole diameter. Fabricate a new handle, or just clamp onto it with a pair of vice grips.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
"Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Graf and Sons just had it on sale. New brass not reloads, I got 2 boxes, looks like nice stuff. Don't give up on your stock, there are guys that can put them back together. There have been a couple on here that looked like kindling for Christmas Eve that were put back together and looked great, Joe.
I'm not greedy, I just want one of each.
Remember Ira Hayes
JoeMartin
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I would use a "drag link" socket (screwdriver blade socket) on a 3/8 drive extension and a breaker bar. Lots of torque so be careful.
for ammo I ordered brass from graft and sons and got Lee Precision dies. 150 grain spritzers work well in the 99's rotary magazine. Have Fun! Mel
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I have put the broken stock away for now. Five hundred dollars at the moment is out of the question. I will check out the drag link combo. I did not know what a drag link was until mentioned here. I used Sierra GK 150 grains last season to take a deer with.
Last edited by ekp; 04/14/15.
"Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit"
Oscar Wilde
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