Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Re-engineering My Truck

I have an '02 Chevy 2500 HD CC SB with the DMax and Allison. I am getting it close to making it what I want. The goal is an all-around serious work, play, travel, daily driver that will haul heavy, tow heavy, be solid on rough hunting roads, be durable and stable, etc. Here is where I am now. Except for mounting the tires on the wheels, I did all of this myself, with some occasional help from my father-in-law.

- 125 HP Edge Attitude computer module w/monitor (includes EGT and Boost gages)
- Magnaflow 4" muffler
- Amsoil airfilter in modified factory airbox
- OD lockout (02's did not have this feature)
- Secondary fuel filter
- Lift Pump (with oil pressure switch)
- Rancho 4" lift w/Rancho RS 9000X shocks
- Realift torsion bar relocators--they get the t-bars and t-bar crossmember back up in the frame
- Heavy duty SS tie rod sleeves
- BFG AT KOs in 295/75R16 (nominally 33.2" x 11.7")
- 16x8 wheels
- Nerf bars
- Fold-a-cover hard tonneau
- Frontier front end replacement bumper/grill guard unit
- Weather tech window shades

The truck runs hard. I can break the tires loose at waaay to high a speed. It is nominally 440 HP off the engine at 2500 rpm. I just put on the 295s, but mileage seems the same as with the 285s, which is 14-14.7 in town. I haven't made a freeway trip with the 295s yet, but with the 285s best mpg on the freeway was 21.9 on summer fuel. I have a friend with the same truck, chip, and 295s; and he has got 22 mpg on the freeway.

The tire rod sleeves have fixed the weak area of the steering. These sleeves have been thoroughly tested and the eliminate tie rod breakage. Interestingly, the drag racers bouncing the front end seem to be the hardest on the tie rods.

The HD CV axles are very stout, but I learned something interesting. With stock length shocks, the shock extension is what limits suspension droop travel. This is a bad idea. With my lift kit and longer shocks, the shocks no longer are the droop limit. GM did not include a bump stop, but there is a metal pad on the frame that now contacts the upper a-arm during full droop. This is also bad, as when the suspension is drooped that far, the CVs bind when they rotate, and they rotate full time.

Guys with spindle lifts have occasionally torn apart CVs during severe offroading. The aftermarket steering spindles are very heavy, at least double what stock spindles weigh. So when you add a very heavy spindle in with running CVs in a bind, you have the recipe for pulling the CVs apart.

I bought some bump stops, and am currently trying to decide how I want to mount them. If it is too much of a hassle I will just get some limit straps. I think every lift kit should have either the straps or bump stops to keep the CVs from binding. Granted, most lifted trucks rarely leave the pavement so they don't see too many problems. However, it is an easy fix and a requirement for a serious truck.

Later I may add some Bushwacker fender flares, 4.10 gears, rear wheel spacers, a rear bumper, and maybe go to 315s. Of course, then I should beef the tranny and go with a 145 HP box................

It never ends..................

Blaine

As long as a gear swap is in the works I would go with ARB air lockers- full locker at flip of switch and no down side (other than cost <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />)

You would be able to go ANYWHERE.

Let's see a pic

I need to get a digital camera first....................

Air lockers aren't a bad idea..........

Plus if you go with a big enough compressor - you can run air tools, air up your tires all kinds of neat stuff. As long as we are getting into the $$ why not an under teh hood welder?

Pictures man pictures......Lets see this truck your building <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />