Home Forums Reloading Shotshells Blending shot??

I have a MEC 660JR on the way. I am interested in blending some different size shot for turkey loads. Can I blend 4's and 7's togther and if so how..

Blending shot is an old and disproven idea. Better to pick a compromise size (maybe 5's). By the way, while the 600 JR is an excellent loader for someone who doesn't need a real high volume of shells, any shot size larger than 6 requires the operator to pay very close attention. Fives are not too bad, but I gave up on fours long ago. The larger sizes will bridge in the shot tube.

I used to load an ounce and three eighths with Unique powder; I'm not sure what the load was, it used the #10 bar, Winchester AA cases, and the field wad. It was deadly on pheasants with number fives, and I think it would work great on Turkeys.

As posted above, the theory sounds good, but practical use has shown little or no real benefit.

A major problem would be keeping the shot evenly mixed. As you load, and shake the press, it will tend to settle out and separate the two sizes.

Another issue is that no two shells would have the same distribution inside the shell. If one had more of the larger shot near the front, and another tended to have the larger shot more concentrated towards the rear of the load, it couldn't be good for consistent patterns.

A few of the big name manufacturers tried "duplex loads" like that, marketed towards turkey hunters, but I think that even they gave up on making them.

Besides, I understand that industry standards allow one size larger and one size smaller to be in a bag of shot anyway. So, if you buy a bag of 5 shot, you may very well have a certain percentage of 4's and 6's mixed in anyway from the factory.

This is very true. When loading the larger sizes I've made it a practice to raise the drop tube up an inch or so and tap it with a piece of dowel rod to make sure the shot drops. Tap not whack btw.

I don't suppose it would be too hard for the reloader to keep the shot separate: a piece of tissue paper or some such would do fine. I would NOT just mix them in the hopper. You'd have to have two measuring tools handy, and you'd load the 7's, add the separator (mylar?) and then the 4's.

As for the "why", well, I can't figure that one out, either, but it's a free country. If it makes you happy, have at....

Personally, I buffer all my long range loads, including the few turkey loads I've made. Tom Roster makes an EXCELLENT little reloading booklet that'll have you making better long range loads than you ever figured on. JMO, Dutch.

I sometimes load a duplex load just for fun. I put my 1 ounce bushing in my press and drop an ounce of #7 shot in a WW red wad over about 28g of longshot in an STS case and then take my lee dipper powder measure spoons and figure out what spoon measures 1/2 ounce of #4's and then through a scoop on the top before I crimp. Works out to a 1&1/2 ounce load doing about 1250 fps. Fun to dink with but most of the time I just load 1&1/2 ounces of # 5's in the same load cause it's simple and it works.

Bb

I don't know what it gets you to mix different sized shot in the same shell-- I don't get the theory. But, if you want to do it, I think the best way would be to weigh out each parcel of shot to consistently get the proportions that you want and the right total shot weight per shell.

If you do it, it would be great if you could pattern them and let us know what you find.

Good shooting!

Heavier shot for more range and the lighter shot for more shot in the pattern up closer. It's been used successfully for years now in Turkey loads.

I'm curious whether you have patterned them at different ranges and how they perform. Also, do you find that these duplex loads give you some advantage on game?

Thanks.

You have the problem of physics rearing it's head...an ugly fact blowing away a beautiful theory...lighter shot will loose energy and velocity faster than the heavier shot so will spread out the shot column horizontally...big one in the front, small ones in the back...

I've never seen any actual test data on this subject, but that doesn't mean it isn't out there somewhere in La La land.

Also...the fact of the "packing problem"...the lighter, smaller shot packs closer together so vibration will cause the larger, heavier shot to actually migrate to the to the top...already proven be true and several REAL scientific test were published in Scientific American and other science publications...and there are lots of very smart people all over the world working on the "packing problem" at this very moment.

If you think this is BS look in your next full box of cereal...all the large flakes are on top and the "fines" are on the bottom...AND you can prove it to youself by mixing several different shot sizes in a small plastic container and hold it on top of a vibrator...you can see the separation and shot migrating happening right before your eyes.

Plus the placebo effect...if you believe it is true, it will be true, no matter if it is, in fact, actually true or not...

AND...last but not least...IF this phenomonen was actually true you can bet the shotshell makers would jump all over it for nothing more than the advertizing value.

I all probability, it would be better to tighten you choke, use a good shotcup, copper shot and a size that shoots tighter patterns in YOUR shotgun and buffering, plus patterning and practice rather than mucking about with "the blended brand".

But if it works for you, keep doing it...your belief might just be helping you to shoot better.

Golly Gobber ya Wooda thunk!

Remington mixed shot loads.

Interestingly enough, my comments are probably not useful BUT... I've yet to reload good shells that beat factory in my turkey guns. Took a few evenings playing testing loads, settled(in my guns) on federal 3 inch copper plated 6, 2oz IIRC, as cheap/expensive as they are, they are deadly to about 55 yards or so., 60 sometimes. They don't wound, IE they'll kill or not. And we get 5 tags, means a box lasts 2 seasons if I wanted to kill full tags here each year.

I"ve gotten awya from them, calling em is cool and all but it got really old after a bit and pretty predictable.

But my main point is for something you fire a few shots a year from , factory in this instance vs testing powder charges, wads, primers,buffering shot etc.... is really cheap and really good.

BTW I'd never mix shot sizes even if stacked the right way to start with.

Seems short of a slug in one barrel and shot in the other a duplex load would be the best solution when your deer season overlaps bird seasons. Something like a few 44 caliber pellets nestled in a load of #6 shot would let you bag just about anything in teh woods with the shell in the chamber whether its a bunny or a buck that pops out from behind the next bush. I would think that the effective range would be about 25 yards for anything though.....

I load a duplex load of 32 #4 buck with 11 Copper plated BBs's as filler. I stack #4 buck in a layer of 4 with a BB in the middle, with BB's on top. This is deadly on yotes at longer range.

Tip: use Federal or Estate cases for higher velocity.

If you use copper plated shot, no buffer is needed.

I had a nice one with 7625 & Remington wads with 1 & 1/4 oz. Around 1400 FPS & deadly. This was before longshot, you can probably go faster yet now with that powder.

HM

I have to agree with many of the views that are being expressed here - blending shot is not the answer. In pellets sizes of #5 or larger there is no problem with penetration even out to lengthy ranges. The main concern is pattern density. My mixing pellet sizes you are now impacting on your ability to achieve a suitably dense pattern which will deliver strikes to those vital organs (brain, spine etc).

Similarly, a mixed pellet size load will see severe damage to smaller pellets which will impact on their ability to penetrate adeqautely.

#5's are an excellent option and will work well with tight chokes and heavy payloads i.e. 1-3/8oz and 1-1/2oz. Again, no need for ultra-high velocities, 1,220 - 1,250 fps (@ 3') will do just fine.

Oh, instead of copper-plated shot try nickel plated it's much harder and generally produces great patterns without additional buffering.

I see it like a man breeding his Labrador to a GSP thinking he'll get a pup that points like the GSP and retrieves like his Labrador.

In reality he gets a dog that points like a Labrador and retrieves like a GSP.

what about mixing tungsten with steel of the same shot size to keep the cost down?

Shellriv, as soon as you find a published recipe, go for it. Until then, stick with pressure tested loads. FWIW, Dutch.

I think heavy metal brand shells use this blend could you buy a box cut a few open figure out what components are used and copy it?