Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Ease of Installation of Rifle Basix Trigger on Ruger 77 MK II

Hello. I have a Ruger 77 MK II, which for the past few years has been my main deer hunting rifle. I have read many posts, which indicate that the Ruger 77 MK II rifle trigger sucks (to be blunt). However, in all the years I've hunted, I have used more lever actions than anything else. So, a not so great trigger (in terms of pull weight, creep and travel), even on the Ruger, has not really bothered me. Though in truth I could live with this trigger for the hunting I do, 3 fairly recent events have occurred that have changed my mind:1) I have an old Ruger 10/22 for which I recently replaced the entire trigger group with the Volquarsten model (a surplus of Cabela's points and I really had at that time nothing else I wanted to use them on). Boy, what a difference!; 2)I have recently shot my Son-in-Law's Savage rifle with the Accutrigger, which IMO is great (he's in Iraq and I was testing some factory ammo in his rifle in preparation for the upcoming deer season); 3)About 2 years ago, I started to reload for my Ruger rifle, which has prompted me to shoot this rifle more. The current Ruger trigger can be somewhat of a trial when I am trying to eliminate any variables to achieve the best possible accuracy for my reloads. It's not a deal breaker but from what I've read, there are better trigger options available.

I have 2 questions, regarding the Rifle Basix trigger. I have focused on the Rifle Basix trigger, since it supposedly offers a "drop-in" installation. Since I am not the most mechanically inclined (but I'm not a total klutz either), this is important to me, if it's true. So, my questions are: 1) For anyone who has done this, is it really just a drop-in installation? In other words, is it easy to install this trigger? and 2)I read on the internet the installation instructions to install their trigger on a Ruger 77 MK II. In the instructions, it mentions that after installing this trigger, you should gently push the bolt forward or something to that affect. I don't abuse my Ruger (nor any of my other weapons) but I don't baby it either. I use this Ruger to hunt with all of the conditions implied in this use. I certainly don't want to worry about gently pushing the bolt forward, especially if I ever get the chance to shoot more than once while hunting. This has yet to occur but it is always a possibility. Is this a legitimate concern?

As always, thanks for your input.

I put one in my son's MK II. Yes, it was drop in and gives a very nice , creep free pull.
Haven't been gentle with using the bolt though did give it a couple whacks on the recoil pad with a mallet as well as a couple bounces on the floor after installation to make sure things were good. They were.

All you need to do is knock a couple of pins out to drop the trigger group. I assume you put the Rifle Basix trigger back in the same place in the same direction and replace the pins. Definitely work the bolt quickly and hard to make sure it won't slamfire, and knock the buttstock firmly on the floor as well. If the firing pin doesn't fall, you should be good to go. I've had my MkII trigger apart many times while "adjusting" it. It is now better than the Rifle Basix triggers I've tried, but it took a lot of trial and error and a reworking of the geometry on the sear and trigger to get zero creep and two pounds.
Selmer

Have you checked on getting a smith to adjust it for you. I had one do it for $60 and its a crisp #3. The factory triggers really have a lot of potential

I thought about sending it to a gunsmith and having the factory trigger worked on. The only problem is that I really don't know any local gunsmiths and I'm sort of leery about sending my "baby" to the Doc, unless I absolutely have to.

Thanks for everyone's input, especially about testing to make sure there are no slam fires. I think I'll order the Rifle Basix and install it myself. We'll see what happens.

Thanks again, everyone.

I have done a few timneys on Mark II's and didn't think it was a drop in install. How do they(Rifle Basix) get around the filing of the rotary safety?

BTW I have had Ruger triggers worked on both ways and the replacement trigger always comes out on top.

I installed a spec tec trigger that had to be filed and was wondering the same thing when I ordered the Rifle Basix.
I think they get around it by making it right in the first place rather than too big just in case there is a discrepancy.

I bought my son his RB/MK II trigger for Christmas and had my wife order me a Jewell for Christmas as well set at 2.5 pounds for my Rem 7/223AI.
I installed both triggers at the same time. The RB was very easy and fast but what threw me was it made my Jewell feel like crap and I was pretty disappointed. Had to turn that Jewell down to under 2 pounds to get it to break clean as the RB and then it was a better trigger.
Just saying you did good if you did your trigger better than the RB I experienced.
I have a RB in a Win 70 set up for varmint duty as well and think highly of it.

That might very well be and I am sure it is probably a better feeling trigger as well. Next time I buy a Ruger i will get one of those .

I will not purchase any item from Rilfe Basix and the following quote is the reason.

"I will not replace the trigger because you shouldn't use a safety on a bolt rifle.....You should leave the bolt uncocked"

This was the response I received when my rifle began slam firing and firing with the safety engaged after installation of one of their triggers.

I takes a lot to make me speak negatively about a company......Check my posts and you will see....I'm not a basher but that response was idiotic.Especially since this was a Youth rifle intended to be used by my 7 year old daughter.

YMMV,

Robert

Oh heck! Now you really got me thinking (which is dangerous). I had convinced myself that I was going to try the RB trigger but your post is got me rethinking the issue. I know at some point I'll have to make a decision on my own on what to do. However, when you get different (yet certainly valid) input from people who have actually used the very product you're interested in, it does make things confusing. I must admit that, when I read the part of the instructions that said to work the bolt gently, I knew to what they were referring and that made me uneasy. Maybe some other folks will chime in with their experiences on this subject.

Thanks again to all.

You might find some good recommendations for gunsmiths in your area on this board, just like you will about aftermarket triggers ... it's a thought.

Gringo Loco,

Good suggestion. I think I'll ask the question on another 24 hour forum.

Actually I just now thought of a gunsmith about 1.5 hours drive away in Baton Rouge. I have heard several locals, whom I know and respect, speak highly of him, though this was several years ago. Not knowing if he was still in business and not certain of how to spell his name, I did a web search and got lucky. Sure enough, he was listed. His name is Eduardo Chahin and from what I've heard, he builds custom guns, stocks, you name it. So, I think I'll give him a call. I don't need a target quality trigger, just something better than what I have. So, if he can work on the existing trigger and he does quality work (which from what I've heard it seems that he can), then I won't have to worry about any potential safety issues.

Boy, am I glad I thought of that (just kidding).

I had to do a little filing on my RB to get the safety to work properly on a first year production MarkII Varmint without the 2-stage trigger. It wasn't too much of a hassle and I have it set at 1 1/2 lbs and have never had it slam fire on closing the bolt or in any other manner. In my case though it wasn't exactly a drop in conversion. I think reworking the factory trigger is probably just as good an option if not better.

orion03,

Thanks for the advice. Now that I think I've found a good gunsmith, that's the route I'm going to take.

Good move on fixing the original. The MkII is a great trigger in that it is easy to work on (not adjustable) and can be safely worked to a very nice, crisp pull. I did this several months ago to a M77 MkII RSM, and it is now superb. No need for the replacement triggers.

+1 on the Rifle Basix being better than the Jewell on a hunting rifle. I have two rifles with Jewell's that are target rifles, and the Jewell's are 2 ounce triggers. But, for a 77 sporter, the Rifle Basix is king of the hill, with perfect breaks, no creep and no overtravel.

Can a good gunsmith take out the "over travel" on a factory M77 Mk11 trigger??

I have a Ruger .223Rem and had it adjusted several years ago by someone local to me..While they did a decent job getting rid of the creep and adjusting down t about 2lb, there still quite a bit of over travel...

Retsof, sounds like you have made up your mind on what to do but let me give you some very recent experience with Rifle Basix. I have a Weatherby Vanguard. It had very bad creep and like you working up loads and the addition of the creep was just one more thing to contend with. I live in a remote area and the nearest gunsmith is good but is always backed up at least a couple of weeks. I looked on the RB website and instructions for this installation and it looked pretty simple. Contacted them by phone and was re assured that it was simple and if I had any questions they would talk me through it. I ordered the trigger and the installation was very simple. In my case just one screw. No creep at all and very crisp. It is set to 2.5 lbs from RB. I would give their customer service an A at least from my experience. I got the impression they are under recent new ownership and trying very hard to get a good start. Trigger was about $130 but if you pay a smith a min $50 and have to drive back and forth several times it all evens out seems to me. Hope this helps. Phil