Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades S30v blades

I just ordered a Alaska Alpha Wolf with S30v blade. I plan to use this for hunting, feild dressing etc... Most of my blades are 420c or 440a.

I am wondering if s30v is a good stainless blade. I was looking for something that holds a good edge that stays sharp. Can any of the experts here tell me the pro's and con's?

Although it's not s30v, I've used D2 compared to 440C and it holds an edge MUCH longer. I understand that s30v is just more of a good thing so you should see quite an improvement on edge holding compared to the 2 you've mentioned.

The down side is it will be MUCH harder to put an edge back on it than the softer metals....at least that's how it's been with D2 for me. But it holds the edge longer.

Enjoy you new knife!

JCM

S30V is a PITA to sharpen, compared to 440C. It holds that edge longer (MUCH longer), though.

Personally, I prefer D2 as it has a "toothier" edge than S30V. S30V can get scalpel sharp, but it's a "slicker" edge, and I find that D2 will grab/cut better.

That said, either is superb, and I'd not turn it away.

You can get a "toothy" or polished edge with either D2 or S30V, it just depends on how you sharpen them.

I would say the big differences between them are that D2 will rust pretty easily, S-30V is a little harder to polish and that S-30V needs to be polished a little finer or it can be slightly chippy.

I think S-30V is an excellent knife steel, you should be very happy with your new knife.............................DJ

Ummmmm.......S30V for me.







I've gotten the hang of sharpening '30V. For me, it's more difficult to sharpen them if I let them get really dull, than it is to keep it sharp. I've gotten in the habit of keeping them touched up w/a 10000grit ceramic stone whenever they get even a hint of losing their edge. The worst case scenario for me is having to resort ot a few strokes with a fine diamond stone. On my skinning knives I don't resort to the ceramic stone for a super fine edge, I just hit them with the fine diamond every now and then. I wouldn't let the sharpening properties of S30V keep me from having one. I too have looked at the KOA model and thought about giving one a try. Let us know how you like it if you try one out.

I've had my Ingrams rust up on me.....so even that is possible if you abuse them enough. S30V isn't immune to rusting, but a scotch brite pad was all that was needed to clean them up again.

In the 2nd pic, next to the last knife on the bottom. That's a #1Semi and was the 2nd Ingram I owned. That knife skinned out 9 whitetails the first season before I had to take a stone to it. It did take me longer to sharpen it compared to some other knives I've had....but I've also had knives that I'd have to stop and sharpen them half-way through skinning out a w'tail. I'll take the edge holding characteristics of S30V any day.....

I have the KOA knife you are referring to in S30V. Great knife for the money. Wicked sharp out of the box and held that edge through a moose and several deer first season I owned it. It is too bad it dosen't come with a Scandi grind available.

As well, all the Charlie May knives I have are S30V. I also went with a Scandi grind on them. Between the S30V and the Scandi, they hold an incredible edge much longer than anything I have ever owned.
One trick I learned (straight from Charlie) wrt sharpening the S30V is to strop it after sharpening regardless of grind. Brings back the razor edge. Over and above what Brad stated.

I use a wide diamond file for a bench stone. The smoothest for a really razor type sharp edge but for general purpose sharpening I use a more coarse one. Look at thru a glass and it looks like small teeth. Try that method.

Semi, CPM S30v is an improvement over the 400 series blades you have now. Most likely it is several Rockwell points harder and the 3 percent vanadium in the steel works to make a very hard small carbide. The grain structure is very small compared to D2. The combination of increased hardness, fine grain and hard carbides all work together to provide very wear resistance and good edge holding. Already mentioned here is the fact the the good wear resistance will also work against sharpening. The vanadium carbides are harder than the aluminum oxide found in the most common sharpening stones. As a result a diamond hone or a silicon carbide stone, both harder than vanadium carbide will make sharpening a lot more efficient. I like a Norton medium silicon carbide (Crystalon) stone for all around sharpening on the high carbide CPM steels like 30V. Use windex or equal for stone lube and it makes it cut very clean. Clean up on the knife and stone is just a rinse under water. You will always get a little burr on the edge off a stone but it can be removed easily for a very fine edge with a leather strop. Just take an old belt or scrap of leather and glue to a flat stick. Work in a little slurry off the stone and back strop the blade a few times and it will come off scary sharp. You can take this strop with you in the field and if the blade looses a little bite just give it a few strokes and you will be back in business... Hope this helps some.. Phil

But gee Phil, what would you know about it?

Great to see you post here...

For those of you that don't know Seamount is none other than Mr.Phil Wilson.He is one of the best and most knowledgeable makers out there.He was making knives when Gene was a baby.If he says it you can take it to the bank.

Thanks Journeyman, I just got back into re-loading and picked up a lot of good information and advice here. Maybe help return the favor here on the knife section.. Phil

Phil I have a couple of questions for you.I am a big fan of S30V.I am having Tom Krein do a couple of knives out of S60V.I know you are a fan of S60v what do you think about running it a little softer at 60rockwell?He is building me 2 hunting knives and a fillet.How does 60v compare to 30v?

My "magic knife" says "hey"...

Just back from its 4th trip across the pond. Only did 280ish grouse, 70ish pheasants and 3 red deer this trip...

Elim, Anything Tom does will come out excellent. I made a lot of fillet knives with S60V and it is a great steel for that application. CPM S90V was introduced as an upgrade for 60V and we now have CPM S110V said to be and upgrade for 90V. CPMS60V at RC 60 is about as hard as you can get it. It does have good toughness at that hardness. I use CPMS30V and CPM 154 for fillet knives now. CPM S110V is working out great for hunter utility use. Availability is limited but I was able to get enough to last for a while.

Journeyman, nice to that knife again, it has traveled some looks like. Glad you are getting good use out of it ....

Phil

Phil I have several of Tom's knives now so i have no doubt he will do a great job.My question was more about the 60V compared to the 30v.At what RC do you think the S60V works the best?

Elim, S60v has a pretty low obtainable hardness. Most heat treaters end up with around 57/58 with this one. I haven't used this grade in a while but was able to get it to 59/60 by going to 2100 high heat, sub zero and 400 temper. If Tom can get it to 59 or so it will be fine, even with a very thin edge. S30V on the other hand has a higher obtainable hardness and can be pushed to 60/61.

S30V at 60 will give a better overall performance than S60V at 58. This is based on cutting rope and a lot of field experience with both grades. At the same hardness the two are about equal
so it just boils down to the heat treat. Phil

Tom is sending the blades off to BOS for heat treating.I would think that Paul has some experience with 60V.I told him to target RC60.

Yep, Paul is the best. Phil

I have two Ingrams and a Buck 110 BOS in the S30V. I have two or three Dunn's in S60V. I seem to prefer the S30V or Dozier D2. The S30V and D2 are both a step above 440A in my opinion. Good luck.

Great thread! I just got a S30V blade made my a friend of mine. I look forward to being able to use it without hitting a steel during the skinning/butchering of one elk.


Thanks everyone!