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tzone Offline OP
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Can you get a decent stock for a Stevens model 200? I'm looking at one and it comes with a tupperware piece at best.


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Nothin'?

That might answer that question.


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I'd think anything that'd fit a Savage. Anyone else?

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Since the Stevens 200 is just a pre-Accu-Trigger Savage with different roll stamping and a gray colored injection molded stock, any stock that will fit a blind magazine Savage 110 (long action) or 10/11/12/14/16 (short action) will fit a comperable Stevens 200.

Laminated stocks from Boyds and Richards or synthetic stocks from Bansnar/HTS, B&C, H-S, McM, etc.

Savage 110 series rifles are 2nd and 3rd tier for me, so I haven't bothered to spend $$ on higher grade stocks for any of the 10 that I currently have. In fact, I bought a short action Stevens 200 stock on eBay to replace the stock on a 223 11FYXP3 youth package gun that I bought. All of the Savage and Stevens synthetic stocks that I have have had the mold lines sanded off, have been glass bedded, and have been painted with Krylon camo rattle-can paint from Wal-Mart.

Jeff

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I found a nice little .243 w/ the gray stock. Rattle can may be the way to go for looks, but it is a hideious, crappy quality stock.


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Savage doesn't make any effort to remove the mold lines and make their synthetic stocks more attractive, but I don't think that the structural quality is any worse than any other injection molded stock.

Take a sanding block and spend an hour or 2 sanding all of the mold lines out of your stock, you might be surprised how much better it will look and as with any paint job, preperation is the key to success.

Jeff

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Do you sand the whole thing to get the paint to stick, or is it rough enough?


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i would sand it. the ones i have owned that i didnt sand, the paint peeled off.

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I only sand the mold lines, then, while wearing a pair of clean/not-fuzzy cotton gloves, I wipe the stock down with acetone to insure that there isn't any grease on it. After the acetone has dried/evaporated, I tape off whatever I don't want painted and hang it in an old cardboard refrigerator box that serves as my painting cabinet. This has been my SOP for several years and I don't recall having any paint peel off because of poor adhesion.

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tzone Offline OP
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the acetone is a good idea, one I knew, but could be easily overlooked.


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if it where me tom I'd do as mentioned above but I'd also rub the whole thing "dull" with a dry scotch brite pad. I'd use a red or green pad.

it gives your paint a little "tooth" to help it get a mechanical bond to your stock.

Also, I�ll let loose another old trick to the trade of coating certain plastics with good adhesion results.

get it all prepped & spark up your little propane torch, use the propane torch like it was a hair dryer & you are drying a light fog off of the stock.

(not kidding)

it's called flame treating. most plastics will show you a hint of a change in gloss & overall appearance as you slowly but sensibly coat the whole stock just like you were spray painting it with a rattle can but you are hitting it with heat instead of paint. You don't need to hit it with the flame, just the heat from the flame. probably hold the torch end about 5" from the plastic & keep moving with it just as if you were trying to avoid getting a run in your paint from slowing down or stopping or getting too close with your paint gun/rattle can.

this is very helpful with plastics such as polyethylene or polypropylene. I'm not going to go all "bill the science guy" on you but in a nutshell imagine gasses and or a sort of "plastic sweat" on the surface that stands between your paint and the plastic below that "sweat"

Cook that surface off with a quick flame treat & you can lay down a coat of paint that's going to lock on to the plastic, no flaking.




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http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=195644

Duramaxx stock. I bought 3 stevens 200s for my nephews a few years ago and put one in this stock and put a rifle basic trigger on, made it about a 400.00 gun but they all shoot lights out.

On the 2 not restocked I sanded the mold lines out and painted them all. makes a nice gun.

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try savageshooters.com lots of good savage stevens info on the bolt actions over there. Lots of specialty venders too.


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I bought a pillared Bell & Carlson stock from Cabelas for my blind magazine, old model Savage 110 varmint model, pre-Accu Trigger. It has worked well for 10 years or so. I'm sure they probably make one for the standard barrel channel.


�That rifle on the wall of the labourer's cottage or working class flat is the symbol of democracy. It is our job to see that it stays there.� George Orwell
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tzone Offline OP
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Thanks for the link. I could get that and still have a sub $300 rifle that probably shoots hair off a gnat.


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Is it a center feed or stagger feed magazine. I haven't found anyone but Stockade making synthetic short action stocks for the center feed magazine. B&C told me they didn't make anything at this time for a short action center feed sporter. The Duramax is intended for varmint barrels.

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Pretty sure it's a staggered feed.


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easiest way to tell is take the barreled action out of the stock. If the magazine stays with the action its a stagger feed, if it stays in the stock its a center feed.

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The Krylon has not peeled on mine with some hard use. Simply cleaned the stocks well after trimming and sanding bad areas.
I like the lightweight stocks when I am moving from location to location for coyotes or pigs.

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Kevin Rayhill at Stockade Gun Stocks has some great options, and VERY affordable if you like to tinker and finish yourself. Had his woodchuck on a 30-06 a while back (sold the rifle) and it was really fantastic for a budget stock.

Granted, they're no mcmillan, but then again they're about 1/3 the price. wink

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