Home Forums Hunting & Shooting General Big Game 300 win mag or 30-06

I've probable got more experience with hiorse than you do AZZ wipe.

Yopur picture obviously leave a lot to be desired. I don't think that you will ever remind me of anything that I have forgotten and I am sure that you will never come up with something that I do not already know. You pmpus AZZ

http://www.apha.com/breed/colorreq.html

A. A horse meeting bloodline requirements outlined in Rule RG-015. must
have a definite �natural Paint marking�.

B. For the purpose of this rule, the term �natural Paint marking� shall mean
a predominant hair coat color with at least one contrasting area of solid
white hair of the required size with some underlying unpigmented skin
present on the horse at the time of its birth. This solid white area must
be in the prescribed zone depicted in the illustration below. In the event
the horse has a predominantly white hair coat, the term �natural Paint
marking� shall mean at least one contrasting area of the required size of
colored hair with some underlying pigmented skin present on the horse
at the time of its birth. This colored area must be in the prescribed zone
depicted in the illustration below.

C. The �natural Paint marking� as described in B above must extend more
than two-inches (2�) and be in the prescribed zone depicted in the illustration
below.

D. The �natural Paint markings� on a horse with both parents registered as
described in Rule RG-015. may be anywhere on the horse�s body or legs
behind a line:

(Reference point 1) from the base of the ear forward horizontally to
the base of the other ear; or
From the base of the ear to the outside corner of the eye, continuing to
the corner of the mouth; or
From the corner of the mouth, under the chin, to the other corner
of the mouth; or
(Reference point 2) A level line around the leg at the center of the knee.
(The center of the knee is determined by using the bony protrusions on the back of the knee as the starting point and drawing a level line horizontally around the knee).
(Reference point 3) A level line around the leg at the point of the hock.
(This hock line is determined, starting at the point of the hock and drawing a line horizontally around the hock).
The �natural Paint marking� need not be visible from a standing
position.
Non-qualifying areas include but are not limited to the following
locations:
a. Eyeballs;
b. Lips of vulva;
c. Shaft of penis;
d. Inner sheath not visible without physical manipulation of the area.
55


E. To be eligible for registration in the Regular Registry, a horse must possess
one additional Paint Horse trait (see RG-070.F.) that need not be
visible from a standing position if the �natural Paint marking�:

EXCEPTION I: occurs in an extension of a high stocking beyond reference point 2 or reference point 3. The �natural Paint marking� must
extend more than 2-inches, be one solid white area and have some
underlying unpigmented skin. The extensionmust be in excess of two
inches above the line specified (either horizontally or vertically).

EXCEPTION II: occurs in an extension of a face marking beyond
reference point 1. The �natural Paint marking� must extend more
than 2-inches, be one solid white area and have some underlying
unpigmented skin. The extension must be in excess of two inches beyond the line specified (either horizontally or vertically).



F. Additional Paint Horse traits for purposes of this registration rule are listed
below. These traits alone do not qualify a horse for the Regular Registry.

White leg markings extending above the knee and/or hocks;
Glass, blue or watch eye(s);
Apron face or bald face, described as outside a line from the inside
corner of the eye to the inside corner of the nostril;
White on the jaw or lower lip;
Blue zone around a �natural Paint marking�;
Two color mane, one color being natural white;
Dark areas or freckles in white hair on the face or legs;
White areas in the non-visible zone, excluding the head, completely
surrounded by a contrasting color;
A contrasting area of another color in the non-visible zone including
the head, on the predominantly white horse.
G. Any horse registered in the Regular Registry which has marginal color,
or color which may not be easily observable, shall have noted in the
�remarks� section of their registration certificate the size and locations of
the qualifying area. If inspected, the date of inspection shall be noted

I have used the 30-06 with 180 gr. Noslers or Woodleighs and the 300 H&H with 200 gr. Noslers or Woodleighs for years..I like them both...I would probably go with the 300 H&H with 200 gr. Noslers or Woodleighs for elk, Moose. I would not feel undergunned with the 30-06 with 180 or 200 gr. bullets however.

Then you have the .338 Win. a round I dearly love for about anything short of elephant.

JWP, you are great at cut and paste BUT I have the registration papers and would gladly supply you a copy if you email me your address and send $50.00 for the cost of notarized copies.

What you THINK you know does not comport with the facts.
Wonder how that paint in the link I sent you passed muster since she is a virtual twin to my old gelding..... hmmm?

Sorry you're wrong and I'm right and that's all there is to that.

Now back to the 30-06, 300 WinMag discussion, I agree with Ray on the 300 H&H since it is a better feeder and to quote Pet Loads, the more efficient 30 caliber magnum (output vs input).

My ancient (1952) 721 AC (love that 26" cut rifled barrel) still shoots MOA or better and when it goes "bang" animals die with, thus far, one shot. I happen to prefer the 168 TSX but Nosler and Woodleigh bullets are also among the best.

I don't care what the horse is. I know at on time the Paint Assc. would register them if they had color without being of Paint blood lines

The problem is your condicending Pompous responce's. To say that another posters doesn't know as much as they think is like the black kettle calling the pot black

You are certainly your favorite person and are nowhere near the authority that you seem to think that you are.

Of course you never post any authority's word or cut and pastes that backs up your rude posts. I would surmise that's because there isn't any

"I don't care what the horse is. I know at on time the Paint Assc. would register them if they had color without being of Paint blood lines"

Did you mean "at ANY time"? Or "at ONE time". Musta been a L-O-N-G time ago as my horse is pushing 30.

Why don't you put up or shut up? More fun to sling BS ?

I have the papers and have made you an offer to get a copy.
You gonna QUACK or do something?

BTW, here's yet another link (one of thousands) to a REGISTERED PAINT that bears a slight (LMAO) resemblance to mine (LAFFIN)

http://www.showhorse.com/users/horse_info.aspx?id=215141

When are you gonna admit you don't know squat?

So what does your paint/palomino feel is the better choice, 06'-or 300?

I would vote for a 300 wm.

I also vote for palomino, no paint. just saying.

Looks like Barbie's horse(which is a palomino).

Greetings.....I posted on ask the gunwriters a while back about the 300 WSM and the tikka T3 and Sako A7.....as everybody probably knows the tikka is a long action with a bolt stop for the 308 length cartridges and the A7 can be had either long or short or mag short for the WSM's....i think i'm going to go with the 300WM in the tikka T3 stainless for a couple of reasons....i believe that limbsaver makes a pad for the T3 ( please correct me if i'm wrong).....i think it could use a limbsaver because of the light weight....i want to shoot that 200gr. AB with that astronomical BC....i have a tikka 6.5X55 and the accuracy claims are good by me so far......i want the rifle to be capable of the long range shot thats maybe not at the best angle because i live east and will probably not be able to go west or alaska but a couple of times....$$$$$......i think i may need the confidence of the paper ballistics while afield....i can't see going all that way and having the animal just a little to far....i'm gonna shoot....from what reading the recoil is gonna be stiff even after the limbsaver and the weight 0f a leupold 3X10 40mm....i'll spend the time and the $$$$ at the range until i can shoot it well in all positions.....at least thats my plan....regards......bearit.....forgot to mention just got a 5 rd. clip for my 6.5 for varmint hunting,a little expensive....i have to admit you have to get used to the look of it....it does stick down from the belly of the gun butfor me it does not really interfere with carry of the gun....i know that the 30/06 has always gotten the job done but as MY large game(moose,elk brown bear hunting may be a once or maybe twice in a lifetime thing i'm gonna go with the 300WM for the extra reach.....bearit....

welll ifing you could get either one of them and shot my ass i would really appreciate it.that old sum bitsh been riding my ass going on 30 yr.tired of that old [bleep] monkey on my back. cheap basturd won't even give me a apple now and then. keeps calling me a paint because of some paper he got. [bleep] only paint that been on me was when his old lady threw a pail at trying to shut his ass up and some splatted on me.you boys is smart can see a palomino right off. he rode me bareback once when he first got me and left a stinky brown spot on my back. when the misses saw it he told her i was a paint and thats been his story since. he has a brother named Al Gore got the same problem. [bleep] flies wish he'd clean this pelosie out of my stall

mister jwp475 i can see you know horses wish you'd take this old blowhard on a bear hunt. he's rotten enough to use for bait if thats legal .you could tie him up out about 1000yd bet his old azz would be praying you could longrange his butt before the bear started chewing on him

You know there was a time when I felt you were unfairly picked on, not just here but on other sites.
I was wrong...

The 200-gn Accubond is a damn good longer range bullet from a .30 magnum if your rifle will shoot it well.

As to actually using it at a range where what it does for a guy actually matters- buy a LRF and practice, practice, practice!

300 win for me, especially if I want to use a 200gr pill(which I prefer, AB or NP).

i've owned and killed elk with both. all my 300's are gone now and these days i just stick with the 30-06 (and 180gr partitions).

I have both. I don't know which is better or which I like better. To simplify things, I shoot 165's in the '06 and 200's in the 300 win mag. Now, if I could only figure out what to do with all those 180 partitions.

I have both and perfer the 300wm, but ask me in 20 years and I will probably not even have a 300wm. so goes the cycle.

kc never been on another site just got access to this pc that oldman put out in the barn still trying to figure it out. typing with your tongue is hard

makes me think there are two types of magnums , power and / or trajectory. The 300 does increase range approx 100yds over an 06, do these few inches mean much on an animal larger than wt deer, most likely not. Does the extra power of the 300 make a differance over an 06? Well if you run the bullet faster then it will expand more when its on the animal so penetration with a bullet from a 300 and an 06 are similiar. i sold a 300win and bought a 3006, because it kills as well ,ranges as well, comes in a light short package if desired. Like other posters have mentioned........if you need more than an 06 then you need alot more so for me the next step is to a good medium bore. Point of interest, a 168TSX at 2900fps and a 200gr AccuBond at 2625fps out of an 06 will have almost the same trajectory and the 200gr AB will pack 20+ % more pwer all the way out to 500+yds. At ranges beyond 300yds you will need a range finder or be well practiced at estimating distances anyway and the 06 will kill with any resonably placed shot at that distance.