The Basis for the Bi-Fur Pod comes from Varmint Al:
http://varmintal.com/abifu.htmI've made a few using his recommended dimensions for user height and found this to work well for me at my size. I'm 5'10" so I use a standard 36" leg length. I also use a 3/4" square stock of strong wood and I use his standard pivot bolt measurement of 5 1/4" from the top end. Where I differ, I have no use for a spoon as a belt clip, I do not like nails for feet, I dislike slop in the pivot, and I do not like using a spring loaded bullet catch.
For a pivot, I used one (1/4-20 x 2" Thumb Screw) through two (1/4 x 3/8 x 3/4 Steel Spacers) which are epoxied into each leg. I placed two (1/4" Nylon Flat Washers) sandwiched by two (1/4" Steel Flat Washers) outside the legs on each end of the Thumb Screw. On the male end of the Thumb Screw I used a (1/4-20 Wing Nut). I hand blued all the steel parts with Brownell's Formula 44/40 Instant Gun Blue, and I used Acraglas to epoxy the Steel Spacers.
Instead of the Bullet Catch, I decided to use standard rubber straps designed to mount hardware to stickbows. I have a bunch that came from Great Northern Bow Company, but these can be found at numerous Archery Supply locations such as 3River, etc. I used two (8-32 x 2 Round Slot Brass Machine Screws) for the studs. I drilled all the way through the leg and countersunk the back side for the screw head so the stud would hold strong and not pull out. I spaced one stud 9 1/2" from the top and one stud 9 1/2" from the bottom of the same leg. For me, I personally preferred mounting the studs on the forward facing leg with the studs pointing into the direction I walk. I epoxied these into place with Acraglas. I then trimmed the length of the studs to hold three thicknesses of the strap. This allows to hold the strap into place in the first hole, and allows enough room to take two wraps, with each wrap going over the stud.
I used standard screw-in sling swivel studs that I spaced 7 3/8" from the top and 7 3/8" from the bottom on the rear leg to the right side. I epoxied these into place with Acraglas.
For the feet, I epoxied into place two 100grain brass arrow inserts used for carbon hunting arrows. These are things I have laying around and I'd imagine any such insert that accepts a standard screw-in arrow point would serve the same purpose. For the feet, I used my prefered small game head which is a "Hammer" that I purchase through 3River. Again, I have these laying around.
As to the shape of the legs, I kept them flat and squared up on the faces where they join. I then strapped them together firmly and tapered and rounded the two ends to my pleasing. I shaped the handle end for when they are folded up to comfortably fit my hand. I then rounded off the hard outside edges of the remainder of the legs. In the end, both individual legs fit smoothly and evenly together as if a single unit.
I sealed the shaped legs with several thin coats of Acraglas. I then used various cans of mixed drab colors to break up the shaft outline. Over this I used a couple coats of spray poly clear which I dulled flat with 000.
For the handle, I used a couple spare pieces of glove weight split cowhide I had laying around. I pre-trimmed the top end of the leather pieces to properly fold over the top of the handles and I pre-trimmed the leather for length, but I left the remainder oversized to be trimmed by scissors after being glued into place. I then used Barge Cement to glue the leather into place with rough side out. After the cement set, I used detail scissors to trim off the overhang to give it a flush fit. I then coated the leather with some Montana Pitch which will help it hold up to use outside.
I am right handed and when I deploy the hiking stick into a Bi-Pod, I point the strap studs and wing nut away from me with the swivel studs pointing to my right. The feet of the forward leg with the strap studs swings to the left, and the feet of the rear leg with the swivel studs swings to the right. For me, this makes for excellent management and control of the Bi-Pod whether you fully grasp the Bi-Pod pivot and shoot free recoil, or whether you grasp the rifle forend and hook the Bi-Pod upper-V with your index finger.
I'd suggest anyone who attempts to make one of these gizmos to think it out thouroughly and to play around with the dimensions to find what fits best.
Hope this helps,
Later
