Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Advice for re-heat treating Zastava Mausers.

The thread title says it all.

I'm interested in hearing any insights on re-heat treating the Zastava Mauser 98 models. These could be the Interarms Mark X, Remington 798, Charles Daly, and the current incarnation - the USSG/EAA Z98. I have read in numerous sources that these modern Mausers were manufactured using completely different steel alloys than the rifles made for the military or the early commercial sporters. Because of this, I am under the impression that the re-heat treating process will need to be different when dealing with older Mauser variants. Is this the case? What would be sound recommendations (numbers) for the receiver, bolt body, cocking piece, and bolt shroud?

I am looking at working on some projects for myself (CST grad) and have located a local heat-treating company who has some familiarity with Mausers. However, they have mainly dealt with older components and suggested I try and find out what would work best for the more modern M98 actions. Some of the things I'd be doing would be lapping lugs, facing the front ring, trueing the bolt-face, and possibly some rail work. Nothing overly invasive or complicated but enough for me to want to play it safe by getting the actions re-heat treated.

Thanks for any thoughts.

Why treat it at all-no need for it.

My feelings exactly.

Sort of Hijack, what if you welded two halves togeather. Actually two 2/4ths.........

That type of work is done ALL the time. Re-heat treating that particular action isn't necessary. That action is made of modern alloy steel and is heat treated in the modern conventional way. Other than looks and features, metallurgically, it is not anything like the old military Mausers.

I have built some of these actions to house and feed some pretty big cases and never needed to play with the heat treating. About the only way I would ever consider having one re-heat treated is if it were the centerpiece of a house fire. Then I would probably replace it.

After welding it seems SOME form of HT would be in order.

It would seem that way wouldn't it. You would need a working knowledge of firearms and know enough to stay away from the critical areas and how to protect them during the welding process, then you would be fine.

Malm; so since the weld is in a no wear zone, and nowhere near the yeild point, if it is straight it is good to go.

Not Malm but if you take steps to prevent heat migration to the locking lug abutments and the primary extraction ramp you should be fine.
Heat sinks, heat sink paste, etc.

I have an old book around here some where that a person did just that.

I think what he did was shorten the action about a half or 1/4 of an inch, by cutting a section out and welding it back togather.

If you are interested, I will try to find the book.

I didn't pay a lot of attention to the article, because I thought that was going to a lot of trouble just to shorten an action 1/4 of an inch or so.

1234567;

I think that was Roy Dunlap......

Is that the one who was making a short action Winchester M70? The Gun Digest Book of Riflesmithing.

I thought it was in one of his books, but I could be wrong.

Jack Mitchell did the M70 in the Gun Digest Book of Riflesmithing.

I recently sold my copy of that book.

You're correct. Chapter 10 - Shorter Can Be Better

The trouble is in the hand work. It is easy to cut and weld. You need a proper jig and heat sink. The bolt is cut and a sleeve is soldered into the 2 shortened bolt pieces and the firing pin is shortened. The original extractor will work.
Butch

pinotguy didn't mention one word about welding that I saw.

So junior do you want us to delete our posts.
Butch

Junior 1942;

I posted the hijack about welding.
I needed a different length action, as I couldn't find a Mauser 4000.

Butch;

Thank you for the reading from the Book of Lambert, I'll go on with the project now.

Again, many thanks for all your information, saves a lot of research.

Dunlap's book happened to be sitting nearby, where it shouldn't have been. If you really want to do it, Dunlap's book has seven really concise pages with pictures on shortening an action. Mausers, Springfields and gas welding of course. Just has to be too much work to be practical these days, even with TIG.